Changing fuel filter on Kama

[michaelTS354]

I picked up one of the Napa 3195 fuel filters yesterday. Mine still has the original blue one and 23 hrs. I know when I change it I should fill it with fuel but what is the procedure for using the primer to get the rest of the air out? Is there a bleeder to open while you use the plunger? My Kama is a 2005 and has the fuel injector pump w/the dipstick, yd485 engine.

 

[michaelTS354]

I picked up one of the Napa 3195 fuel filters yesterday. Mine still has the original blue one and 23 hrs. I know when I change it I should fill it with fuel but what is the procedure for using the primer to get the rest of the air out? Is there a bleeder to open while you use the plunger? My Kama is a 2005 and has the fuel injector pump w/the dipstick, yd485 engine.

 

[greg_g]

Before starting the bleeding process, fill the filter with fuel and reinstall loosely. Use the hand primer and watch the bubbles come out around the top of the filter. Once the bubbles change to a steady fuel flow, tighten down the filter. Then open the compression nuts on all four hardlines where they come out of the injection pump. Use the primer pump again - till bubbles start coming out. Continue pumping till you get more fuel than bubbles. Tighten the compression nuts. Follow the hardlines up to the fuel injectors, and loosen the compression nuts up there. Open the compression release and crank the engine, watching for bubbles - and eventually fuel flow. Stop cranking, tighten the compression nuts. Start engine.

Wouldn't hurt to clean the sediment bowl and any banjo screens while you're at it. Don't forget to tighten the primer pump back down when you're finished.

I personally have better luck loosening the compression nuts all the way so that the hardlines physically come off. I can get a better look at the bubbles and fuel flow that way. But everybody develops their own bleeding technique after while, so will you.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Before starting the bleeding process, fill the filter with fuel and reinstall loosely. Use the hand primer and watch the bubbles come out around the top of the filter. Once the bubbles change to a steady fuel flow, tighten down the filter. Then open the compression nuts on all four hardlines where they come out of the injection pump. Use the primer pump again - till bubbles start coming out. Continue pumping till you get more fuel than bubbles. Tighten the compression nuts. Follow the hardlines up to the fuel injectors, and loosen the compression nuts up there. Open the compression release and crank the engine, watching for bubbles - and eventually fuel flow. Stop cranking, tighten the compression nuts. Start engine.

Wouldn't hurt to clean the sediment bowl and any banjo screens while you're at it. Don't forget to tighten the primer pump back down when you're finished.

I personally have better luck loosening the compression nuts all the way so that the hardlines physically come off. I can get a better look at the bubbles and fuel flow that way. But everybody develops their own bleeding technique after while, so will you.

//greg//

 

[DwayneB]

How's your 354 doing after 23 hrs? I've got 25 on mine and so far so good. I worked the crap out of it this weekend. 5 hrs with a 6' brush hog in some very heavy stuff. It never missed a beat and the temp guage just barely crept a hair over 80 once. I did loose the knob for the hood latch somewhere. I've had to tighten a few bolts here and there but that's it. I'll be having to chg filters sometime soon myself.

 

[DwayneB]

How's your 354 doing after 23 hrs? I've got 25 on mine and so far so good. I worked the crap out of it this weekend. 5 hrs with a 6' brush hog in some very heavy stuff. It never missed a beat and the temp guage just barely crept a hair over 80 once. I did loose the knob for the hood latch somewhere. I've had to tighten a few bolts here and there but that's it. I'll be having to chg filters sometime soon myself.

 

[michaelTS354]

I love this thing so far! Right now the only implements I have are a KK 5' shredder and a 5' scrape blade. I should have went with a 6' scrape blade though. I recently borrowed a hay spear to move some large round bales and it lifted them easily, i was very happy. I have hit some major rocks, bricks,stumps,and hidden lumber and took down some 2" trees with the KK and no problems there either. The hood latch is a bad design, mine kept popping open so i took out the springs that push up on it, just have to lift it while you pull the knob. I dont think I have ever seen my temp gauge much over 80 either.

 

[michaelTS354]

I love this thing so far! Right now the only implements I have are a KK 5' shredder and a 5' scrape blade. I should have went with a 6' scrape blade though. I recently borrowed a hay spear to move some large round bales and it lifted them easily, i was very happy. I have hit some major rocks, bricks,stumps,and hidden lumber and took down some 2" trees with the KK and no problems there either. The hood latch is a bad design, mine kept popping open so i took out the springs that push up on it, just have to lift it while you pull the knob. I dont think I have ever seen my temp gauge much over 80 either.

 

[DwayneB]

I got my 6' KK brush hog for $549 new. I just couldn't pass up that deal. I agree about the hood latch.
I got to try out the 4WD and the diff lock several times this weekend. Sweet!!! I hit a few things myself, lol. I got a ? for you. On your brush cutter how did you mount the floating U bracket at the top? If I saw it correctly the little 1" block goes towards the tractor.

 

[DwayneB]

I got my 6' KK brush hog for $549 new. I just couldn't pass up that deal. I agree about the hood latch.
I got to try out the 4WD and the diff lock several times this weekend. Sweet!!! I hit a few things myself, lol. I got a ? for you. On your brush cutter how did you mount the floating U bracket at the top? If I saw it correctly the little 1" block goes towards the tractor.