Here is an awesome tip I picked up elsewhere. Ask the manager of any local places that sharpen chains if they have abandoned chains, most places are sitting on a bunch of chain that no one has claimed past their policy period. Many times they will sell you a pile of saw chain very cheap just to clean out their shelves. One guy claimed to literally have gotten a box of chains for $20.
Chainsaw cut is scalloping
- Thread starter Combustix
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Here is an awesome tip I picked up elsewhere. Ask the manager of any local places that sharpen chains if they have abandoned chains, most places are sitting on a bunch of chain that no one has claimed past their policy period. Many times they will sell you a pile of saw chain very cheap just to clean out their shelves. One guy claimed to literally have gotten a box of chains for $20.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
My local Stihl dealer sells used chains at 1/2 price. Some people just buy a new chain each time rather than sharpen the old one.
Ken
Ken
Thanks for all the tips. I think I will go with the new bar. My saw is around 15 years old and I use it for 4 or 5 cords a year. I got a new chain from the logging supply company in town. I stay away from the box stores with all things saw. Though I havnt put the new chain on yet. I'm also cutting up cottonwoods which I had a tree guy cut due to the size. The guy at the store mentioned the cottonwood holds lots of water this time a year and that will dry out the chain even with the oiler. I have noticed that the chain is probably overheating due to the smoke coming from the cut. When I get back to the house will check my old bar, but I'm sure I will get the new bar. I'm hoping it's not operator error. Happy T day everyone
LD1
Epic Contributor
Chains for my saw (24" bar) run me ~$24 at the stihl dealer for stihl chain:thumbsup:
Since he was talking about a husky 350, I was figuring it is onl,y like a 16 or 18" bar, and probabally that 3/8" lo-profile chain?????
I know our 14" trim saw, we can buy a 2-pack of chain at places like TSC or Lowes for ~$20-$25, so I figured his would probabally be in that neighborhood.
But the price is really irrelevant. The point is that money spent on a chain is NOT going to be a waste since it is a wear item and he would probabally buy several MORE chains in that saws lifetime.
beppington
Elite Member
Until recently I've always just bought a new chain for my Stihl pole saw. Now I have about 8 chains, & I'm still on the first bar, & the bar seems to work fine.
Any time I've ever had "scalloping" or curving, it has turned out to be a dull chain, well duller on one side than the other anyway.
Since it's free, I would try sharpening the old chain first.
If it doesn't work, maybe then you buy a new bar & use your new chain.
Any time I've ever had "scalloping" or curving, it has turned out to be a dull chain, well duller on one side than the other anyway.
Since it's free, I would try sharpening the old chain first.
If it doesn't work, maybe then you buy a new bar & use your new chain.
Coyote machine
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I rotate two chains on each of my saws and flip the bar each time I sharpen the chain, by hand. Also clean out the grooves in the bar each time I remove a chain to swap it with the sharp one. Check and file rakers every few sharpenings and touch up the chain if in the field, when taking a break from cutting to not tire myself past safe use of the saw.
Check the groove in the bar to make sure it is not bound or pinched anywhere along it's length. If I see a spot where the paint on the bar is burned off or the bar is blue from heat the bar may be overheated or warped or bent, twisted, etc. With gloves one should be able to move the chain on the bar with no binding. Stihl recommends slackening the chain after use because as it cools it shrinks and puts excess pressure on the chain, bar and bearings. synthetic bar/chain oil is expensive, but like anything else it's worth what you pay for in increased longevity of the entire saw's life. I use Amsoil's bar/chain oil.
Check the groove in the bar to make sure it is not bound or pinched anywhere along it's length. If I see a spot where the paint on the bar is burned off or the bar is blue from heat the bar may be overheated or warped or bent, twisted, etc. With gloves one should be able to move the chain on the bar with no binding. Stihl recommends slackening the chain after use because as it cools it shrinks and puts excess pressure on the chain, bar and bearings. synthetic bar/chain oil is expensive, but like anything else it's worth what you pay for in increased longevity of the entire saw's life. I use Amsoil's bar/chain oil.
Johnbro
Gold Member
If you put a new chain on a worn bar you will wreck the new chain and your cut will still be bad. Bars are cheap. After awhile they wear out, and your saw won't cut straight. I went through this exact thing last year, new bar and chain and saw was cutting like new again.
JD 4520
Platinum Member
Johnbro said:
The most common problem is the chain...not sharpened evenly on each side. A good store can tell if you are right handed or left handed by how you sharpen your chain. Sharpening technique is important to a good cut. My guess will be it is just your chain but if it's been along time since you've replaced the bar you may do that also.