Chain sharpening

[Einthewoods]

I致e got an Oregon chain grinder, not the top of the line edition, but compared to the Horr Freight grinder my neighbor bought (and no longer uses) it does a fine job.
While the grind vs hand file debate rages on, I prefer to keep my saw chains in top shape by grinding carefully.
A wood cutting adventure includes two or more spare sharp chains as, in my opinion, swapping out a dull chain in freezing cold is less hassle that filing.
B. John

Thanks John

 

[SCWOOD]

I have the HF sharpener.I like it.I would recommend watching youtube videos on how to set it up.I used to use a craftsman 12v handheld chainsaw grinder but the cutters would end up not ground the same.Chains are not the same, look at Oregon's website. I use professional chains they cut faster but you may be better with the low kickback chain.I have three saws & electric pole saw. Having 2 or three chains and paying local shop to sharpen is a good option for occasional use.

 

[Sonny580]

My main grinder is an old Belsaw 399.---next is one like, but not from, HF. it works fine for small chains.--lastly is the actual Dremel attachment and I use the carbide bits, NOT the stones.
If your chain dulls that quick, I would go with a chain from Oregon, or stihl ( I have used stihl chains with good luck), get the PRO. grade, not the common grade. thanks; sonny580

 

[RandyT]

I'm thinking it's a bargain basement chain made with soft steel. Soft steel in a pocket knife will sharpen quickly and get dull even faster while hard steel takes longer to sharpen and stays sharp much longer.. Don't know what type of chain is on this saw, probably not Oregon.

Most OEM's use oregon chain. Could be a cheap china import, but could also be the lower of the three grades of Oregon chain. Oregon makes almost all the chain used by various OEM's including Stihl. Been told by Oregon rep that the box store chain has 1/3 of chrome layering than the pro grade chains. thicker chrome coating results in the chain being more tolerant of abrasive conditions.

 

[varmint]

Instead of buying something pricey for occasional use, I would recommend getting one of the Stihl or Pferd 2-1 sharpeners, (around $42 on Amazon) just as at least two other posters have already done. It won't break, it carries into the field, works without much of a learning curve, and does just what it is designed to do- a lot of people much more experienced than I am have great things to say about them. How many things can we say that about? Better yet, get a new Oregon chain along with it. Their website will guide you thru the ordering process. Assuming a modicum of common chain-saw user sense, a faster cutting chain than the consumer "safety" chain that comes with such saws will make an instant improvement in cutting speed.

 

[marchanna]

A 16 bar has a pretty short chain. Fewer cutting edges means it will wear out sooner. I buy Oregon chains for my 16 echo and they work well. Make sure you stop using it when the cutting get noticeably worse or else you値l ruin the chain. Buy a couple spares and sharpen them all at the same time, light and quick cuts with an electric sharpen so that you don稚 impart too much heat to the chain or else you will anneal the steel.

 

[Jstpssng]

Your Ryobi chain also has small teeth, which will get dull quicker. Don't knock it just because of the brand though, small saws like that have done a lot of work for homeowners over the decades. I've been thinking about getting a Ryobi 40V electric for carrying behind the seat in my pickup, for the occasional tree across the road. In the time it takes to start my Huskie and warm it up, the Ryobi would have it gone.

 

[marchanna]

My echo is a 58v. It chews through anything the bar is long enough for. A great little saw.

 

[DJ54]

Dad bought this style of a manual sharpener over 40 years ago. Sportsman Earth Series Bar Mounted Manual Chainsaw Filing Guide-8�2597 - The Home Depot But, it was all cast aluminum. In fact, I still have it, and use it, and it has sharpened MANY chains. He liked it so well, he bought 2 more. One to take to the woods, just in case, and a spare in the shop. They were bought through Zip Penn, now Cutter's Choice. Also bought files through them at a good price. Looked at the site, and prices are still a pretty decent price. Cutter's Choice Online - Chainsaw Files & Accessories Buying by the dozen, makes for a good discount. I've still got a couple boxes left, from when I cut firewood to sell years ago.

The sharpeners are easy to use. There are 2 small guides that set on top of the bar, then clamp it in place, anywhere along the bar. Set the angle of cut (we set it at 35ｺ). Always check for the worst tooth, and start with it. how ever many strokes it takes to clean it up, make that many strokes on the rest of them, to keep the chain even, so it will cut straight. Just be sure and mark that firs tooth filed with a lumber marking crayon, or paint pen, so you know where you started.

I clamp the saw in the vise to hold it. When you finish one side, flip the saw around in the vise, to do the other side. Then flip the file guide, to file in the other direction.

They do make guides to file down the depth gauges, or rakers, but after you've done it a while, you just learn to make 2-3 passes with a flat file, to dress them up, after 2-3 cutter sharpenings. You also learn to not take to much off the depth gauges, or it will snag the chain when cutting. At least, until the chain dulls a bit.

If you get this type, and take care of it, it should last you the rest of your life.

 

[wimpy525]

I just bought the Stihl 2 and 1 filing guide last weekend. I cut 6-8 cord a year. I have been hand filing for years and got somewhat good at it, the 2 and 1 just makes life easier, sharpens and files the rackers in one step. I file just about every time I take the saw out, keep one spare chain, when I cant get the results I want by file I swap chains and have the local shop sharpen the dull one.