Chain Saw Advice

CurlyDave · Mar 3, 2006

As part of my land-clearing activities I need to remove quite a few trees.

Lets estimate ~100 over the next 3 or 4 years.

Until I got gas heat 20 years ago, I burned wood exclusively for ~ 15 years in the winters. I have a 12" Stihl chainsaw which is now about 30 years old and has not been used since I got gas heat. I primarily used it to cut up cord wood which I had delivered, but I did manage to wear out 3 chains. I just tried to start it up & it does not start any more.

We are now moving to the country and I am both going to clear trees and buck firewood, so I need to replace the old saw.

I am a 60 year old geezer desk jockey with no real knowledge and limited experience of chain saws.

I am thinking that I should start with about a 16" bar and leave any tree I can't cut down with that for someone who knows what he is doing.

Any recommendations on brands, motor sizes, and chain types, etc ? Easy to start is a must.

Safety equipment ? I am thinking of getting chaps, helmet & face shield with any saw. I have a pretty good set of boots, and always wear gloves. Anything else I need?

I am thinking that it will be a lot safer to notch and backcut most trees only to the point where I can pull them over with the tractor & a 45 foot 3/8" chain. What do you folks think?

I have already pulled over a few trees with the tractor & this seems like the way to go if it is possible. However, I already have a few which I can not pull over, and these need to be cut down.

Egon · Mar 3, 2006

Chaps/pants, ear protection, eye protection, hard hat and chainsaw specific boots. There are boots made for this purpose. Oh, and gloves. Water bottle, sweat band and relaxing chair for post sawing recovery. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

There different types of chain. The faster they cut the more they are prone to kickback. An extra bar and chain are handy if you get the saw stuck.

Note: you can use different sise bars and different chains as long as all is compatible. [ pitch,gauge]

Learn how to sharpen your own chain.

Get some wedges and fall the tree properly. Note wind direction.

Quite a few different chain saws out there. A proffesional model [ more expensive ] may be advisable.

You will receive lots of advice as to "the best one." Take your pick.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

scott_vt · Mar 3, 2006

Get some wedges and fall the tree properly. Note wind direction.

Mornin Egon,
If any kind of wind is blowing, I just come back another day /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

scotty

jeffinsgf · Mar 3, 2006

Well this gets about as semantic as Ford or Chevy, but anyway here is my side of that debate. I have a 11 year old Husqvarna model 55 chainsaw and a 12 year old Husqvarna string trimmer. Personally, I am awful about small engine maintenance. I always think I will use it "one more time" in the fall, then forget about it and in the spring, the gas has been sitting in it all winter. It doesn't happen every year, but it happens more often than the proper winterizing routine. I also have a 3 year old Stihl string trimmer (smaller and lighter than the Husky) and a 1 year old Stihl hedge trimmer. I can assure you of one thing. When I grab one of my Husky's it is about 3 or 4 pulls from starting --- every time regardless of maintenance. When I grab a Stihl, I am in for a frustrating 10 minutes of cranking, fiddling with the choke, feathering the throttle, cussing and promising myself that I will no longer listen to the sales guys at my local farm store talk about the superiority of Stihl.

ddbuck · Mar 3, 2006

do a search for "chainsaw advice needed" in the Rural Discussion section, excellent advice especially from CT Tree Guy

SnowRidge · Mar 3, 2006

I recently bought an Echo 520 with a 20" bar for general use, which I like very much. I was going to get a Husky Rancher, but after comparing the two, I decided on the Echo. My old saw is a 16" Poulan, and there is no comparison. I am very happy I went with the 20" bar, BTW.

Wesdor · Mar 3, 2006

Lots of good advice from others so far. Several have said to learn to sharpen your chain. I'll add my voice to that one. You can either purchase a dremel tool with a stone and sharpening guide (for about $50) or get a dedicated chain sharpener for more like $250.

Keep the chain out of the dirt and sharpen it often. I find nothing worse than working with a dull chain.

Regarding brand, I wouldn't dream of going there. Just get a well built model. There are lots of them.

Sounds like safety is your number 1 concern - that's as it should be.

PineRidge · Mar 3, 2006

We wore a Makita chain saw out in about 1-1/2 years so I wouldn't go there.

Would recommend a Stihl saw which is what we replaced the Makita with. It's been a good all around chain saw that's quite easy to start. I've tried but can't seem to wear this one out, at least not yet.

4sarge · Mar 3, 2006

Old geezer and just 60 /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I still use a chainsaw but only for campfire wood or a down tree. You might consider a corn stove if you live in the corn belt. I'm using a corn stove to heat my farm and I've knocked my propane bill down by about 3/4 or more. Keeps the cabin nice and warm and do not have to depend upon the gas furnace for heat - only as auxiliary and cooking. Corn is costing me 1 to 2 dollars a day depending upon the outside temps. Wife loves it and she was a non believer before we installed it. Corn is 0 work compared to wood. I buy the corn from a neighbor or at the co-op, empty the ash pan about every 2 days and clean the stove periodically. Bought a shop vac to aid in the cleaning and can complete the job in about 15 minutes.

If you buy, buy a good corn stove -

DmansPadge · Mar 3, 2006

I bought an Echo 440 with an 18" bar after the hurricane. It has been really impressive so far. The real test is how it will be 5 years from now. So far so good. The prices of the Echos are a bit cheaper than the Stihls and Husqvarnas.