Cement Mixers / Concrete Mixers

[havebikewilltravel]

I'm thinking of buying a three-point hitch, PTO-driven cement mixer (or concrete mixer). Seems like they'd be a popular item, but I've been unable to find anything on the forum. I'm interested specifically in the following: 1-Recommendations regarding manufacturers (good or bad), 2-Do's and don'ts of using one, 3-General experiences (good or bad), 4-Why is there so little discussion on the forum (are these something new to the residential/small acreage tractor world)?

 

[TerryR]

There are at least a dozen threads on this topic here. See
PTO-driven cement mixer - Google Search

 

[havebikewilltravel]

Great! Thank you!

 

[LD1]

Probably not a ton of discussion because it is one of them items that dont get used that often.

Anything more than a few yards to mix, I'd be hiring a truck to deliver it.

 

[Deere Dude]

Depending on the usage I guess, but I would get an electric stand alone mixer so I could use the tractor independently while mixing.

 

[oosik]

I have a concrete mixer but its an electric one. I use the tractor bucket to bring sand/gravel/dry cement to the mixer. Its an IMER minuteman mixer. Rated at 5 cubic feet - drum capacity. One cubic yard = 27 cu ft - - so its about 1/5 of a cubic yard. For remote use on the property - load sand, gravel, dry cement bags into FEL bucket. Load mixer & portable generator & 25 gal drum of water & wheelbarrow onto utility trailer and hook to tractor. I'm ready to go anywhere on the property.

I mix the concrete and dump into a wheelbarrow, for transportation.

Things to watch out for - a load of mixed concrete is very heavy. Be careful as you dump that you don't loose control - dump slowly, whether into a wheelbarrow or directly into the forms. If dumping into a wheelbarrow - best to have a helper hold the barrow so it doesn't tip.

My mixer was purchased at Home Depot - 2001 - $495.

I've also used the mixer to mix compost & fertilizer, mortar & various types of fertilizer. Never had a moments problem with this mixer.

 

[KennyG]

The three point mixers are pretty expensive. How much use do you really expect? The 3+ cubic foot mixer you can get at Harbor Freight or on E-bay for about $200 will mix a lot of concrete. The are cheap Chinese made machines but I've had one for years and used it for a number of small jobs and it works fine.

 

[/pine]

I'm with the stand alone mixer (gas or elec.) crowd...The popular ones on the market are decent quality, lightweight (poly drums) and very easy to secure to either a carry all or on a pallet for mobility ease...

I keep a couple of pallets that have been plywood decked and curbed with 2x on three sides to move sand/course aggregate etc. into position for easy mixing...

FWIW...
Around here where there are granite crushing quarries everyone (including the ready-mix companies) use "crusher run and Portland for the general mix...there is the perfect amount of fines in the run so there is no need for additional fine aggregate (sand)...rule of thumb is a 5/1 aggregate/Portland (low slump) mix will yield roughly a 2000PSI compression pour...

It is recommended in cold climates to use an air entraining agent in the mix to help prevent freeze/thaw damage down the road...glass fibers can be had at some building supply's and most ready mix outfits...to add tinsel strength...

 

[Sysop]

A cement mixer is something that if taken care of properly, it will be around forever. I've got a mid-1950s model Montgomery Wards mixer that is in perfect working order and can out-work 5 men when laying concrete... Uses the same sort of half horsepower electric motor as can be found on many various tools and appliances. Generally I buy PTO implements to avoid having an extra engine to maintain. That's really no concern for a cement mixer.

 

[DJ54]

I have an old Cherokee (not made anymore) 3 pt. mixer I bought off one of the guy's I worked with, about 15 years ago for $100. It has way more than paid for itself over the years doing small jobs. Pads in front of entry doors, feed/tack room floors, apron in front of the garage, chimney foundations, etc. Most pours were under 1-1/2 yds. With them having to pay a 3 yd. minimum here, for anything under 3 yds., it has saved me some money. Money I put towards the rest of the project, or, paid for the total cost.

It's been 3 years since I poured a new well pit & lid, and now getting ready to pour another foundation for a chimney for the shop. Have enough sand & gravel left from the well pit job to do this one. All I need to do is get the bags of cement. I mix near a yard hydrant, and fill a couple 5 gallon buckets with water. I tend to mix a little wetter than you would get off a truck, and sweeten the mix a bit to make up for mixing it wetter. By the time I transport to where I'm pouring, it's thoroughly mixed.

When pouring the well pit walls, I sprung for a HF concrete vibrator. Worked very well, and saved a LOT of hammering on the forms, to get it to flow & settle.

For larger jobs, it's best to have everything ready to go the day before. It will be a long day from start to finish, with mixer & tool clean up in between.