CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!!

[Toddz]

Well;
Changed the engine oil before JTKUB posted his oil change post and I agree he..he.. what a flub that device is without a 90 degree elbow.

But tring to find oil seems to be a major Headache for the Trans, found one place that would ship and 2 gals at $65.00 didn't seem bad until they said case orders only on oil so at 6gals I ended up at $ 250.00 for Trans oil I don't think so.
Anyone have an online cub source I can order from and not get a Lifetime supply?
Lowes said yeh we can get it special order and $$$$
I was ok with 2 gals but any more and I'll be drink'n Neer Beer for 3 weeks. Here's the price listed below which they wouldn't fulfill cause it wasn't case minimum.

Part Type Part ID Description Qty Unit Price Price
Cub Cadet 737-3121 FLUID-DRIVE SYSTEM + 2 27.65 55.30
SubTotal: 55.30
Shipping: 16.50
Taxes: 0.00
Grand Total: 71.80

Todd

 

[JTKub]

Todd, mail ordering the CC transaxle oil will be pricey due to the weight. If you are just swapping out the trans filter you may not need more oil. Mine was way overfull from the factory (and/or dealer). If I had been quick enough threading on the new filter, I would not have had to add any. You don't have any CC dealers nearby?
G/luck
Joel

 

[MrWiggles2]

How many hours do you have on it? I have 62 hours on my 2180 and haven't changed the filter. Matter of fact, I've asked my dealer a few times, they told me not to even do it until I have 100 hours. I was concerned about the warranty, but they have assured me that I would just be wasting money. The fluid itself doesn't need changing. The manual only recommends changing the filter and adding fluid lost in the filter change. The synthetic oil you drain will be the same color as what you put in. Wait until 100 hours before you make the change. You'll spend all that money and won't notice a bit of difference.

 

[Toddz]

No Dealers other than Lowes,
Cub's website is great other than finding dealers. It's by zip and no-ones listed for my area (Lancaster CA) and you can't search by state. So I'd have to list a Gazillion zip's to find a dealer? That feature sucks on the Website.
So I'll keep hunting and post when I find something.
But as you said changing filter only is a good option and the filter kits were reasonable online.
Todd

 

[JTKub]

Todd. Do yourself a favor and get a Carquest # 85410 (wix) filter for your trans. Or x-ref it for the Napa p/n. Next time I have to add or change the transaxle oil on my CC, I'll be using Mobil-1 15w-50 or 20w-50. I don't have scientific data to support my theory /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif, but once you see/smell/feel the CC trans oil, you see it's a heavy motor oil just like what every hydro-gear brand hydrostat uses. Plus mobil-1 is full synthetic, not semi like the CC stuff, cheaper & easier to get to boot!
G/luck
Joel

 

[DmansPadge]

Try calling their 800 number. They can locate your closest dealer. The number is 1-877-282-8684.

 

[1olddawg]

Todd-Looks like you are finding a plethora of info that you can hang on to. If you don't mind, would like to add my limited knowledge for consideration /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif JT is right on the money with the info on Mobil 1. It is an excellent lubricant. The reason? It is NOT petroleum based and won't sludge. I personally have used nothing in my mowers except Castrol Full Synthetic, 10W30. My older Troybilt has over 300hrs on the 18hp Briggs Intek and still runs like a top. The Wix filters work fine. Transaxel 51410 and Oil 51516 available from your local ABC auto parts dealer. My local Carquest was bought out by by another company and handles Wix. I am currently useing a Fram 3600TG for the oil because of extremely dusty conditions and availability at Wal-Mart. I disagree with the 100 hour oil change unless you are on a sculptured lawn with no great amount of dust. I change my oil and filter every 50 hours. Remember that a Mower is used in the harshest conditions that a small engine can run under. Be sure and keep the intake screen located on the engine behind the firewall clean to avoid excess engine heat. It is not easily cleaned unless you use compressed air. Think you will really like the the mower once you have worked out some of the kinks. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ducati996]

Oldawg,

The 100 + hour service interval is for the tranny service, not the engine oil. 6 quarts approx. are required for this
I cant answer what the repercussions if any would be when JT switches the Cub oil, to full synthetic besides cause a possible warranty issue. I would love to hear feedback after its been done -

 

[ducati996]

The filter needs to be changed first, not the oil. 1 Quart would be good to have because when you spin off that filter, you will have spillage. How much depends on how fast you can spin back a slippery, slimy filter /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I would count on losing 1 qt trying to test your reaction time.....

 

[1olddawg]

Ducati996, Rechecked the maintenance chart in the operators manual. It calls for Oil & Filter at 100hrs or yearly (more often under dirty conditions). It also calls for transmission oil filter after 10 hours, 50 hours and every 100 hours thereafter. There is no mention of changing the oil itself. My dealer says to buy it by the quart to have enough to make up for the loss by the filter change. I drain mine into a 6qt oil catch pan dedicated for this use and reuse it. I personally don't advise any brand changes as long as the warranty is in effect : /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[ducati996]

1olddawg,

Not sure of the model you have but i would be worried if the machine was new and the engine oil and filter wasnt changed before 100 Hrs and if its not in the service book suggesting such. I have to look at the suggestions again but full fluid change was mentioned either at the 100 or 150 hr interval....this is for a 3204 series machine (most likelty the same for the 3000 series). it might be the same for the 2500 series as well since the trannys are the same or similair. If you go towards the trouble of draining oil, I would consider first replacing it before ever reusing it. But thats a personal choice and a difference of opinion /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ducati

 

[1olddawg]

This info is for the 2544. Don't know anything about the 3000 series. Actually, page 28 in the operator manual states "If the transmission oil is to be re-used, cover the container holding the drained oil to prevent contamination."
The filter changes are necessary to get rid of metal wear materials which is naturally occurent with meshing gears. This is a low speed application, unlike an automobile. The real object here is to protect the pump and prevent any plugging of the ports, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MrWiggles2]

It is my understanding that the transaxel fluid is full synthetic, not a blend (according to my dealer). Considering that this is a low speed operation, those hydros get wicked hot, at least the smaller ones do. My Cub 2180 with aluminum casing even after a full day of cutting and carting, rarely gets more than warm to the touch. Another thought is moisture and break-in. Personally I don't think you'll find a lot of metal fragments in the filter after 10 hours. My dealer has seen 2000's with over 300 hours on them before the first filter change and they worked as well as when they were new. I decided to let it go, figured they must know something. As far as the engine, I'm switching to full synthetic at my next oil change. Its time.

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is my understanding that the transaxel fluid is full synthetic, not a blend (according to my dealer).... )</font>

It says "synthetic blend" right on the bottles of the CC drive system plus. Of course who knows what is really in there /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. No offese to dealerships, but they usually dont know squat about oil. From what I understand a synthetic 'blend' typically contains 10% syth. The rest is good old oil from the ground. The CC transaxles do hold a lot of oil, so no doubt the oil can hold up for many hours. I definately would not leave a spin-on oil filter in service for more than a year or two of even normal residential service. The filtering media in them can become weak & come apart /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.
G/luck
Joel

 

[Toddz]

Well; Or
Ordered a 8 pack (min they would ship) for 7.49 a quart
But I'll have no warranty issues, and thats paramount.
I'll post how the change went after I get it, and get'r done!

Todd

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...Ordered a 8 pack (min they would ship) ... )</font>

That will cover ya. About an even gallon came out just by removing the filter on mine & the drain plug is way below the filter mount. For some reason mine was way past the full line on the trans dipstick when I took delivery, so others may not loose that much. What would really help on just a filter change is if you could stick a rubber plug into or a cap over the threaded filter nipple to keep the oil from pouring out. This would atleast give you two hands to wipe down the area before you thread the new filter on. Otherwise you have to do it quick and dirty /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif!
G/luck
Joel

 

[Nittany]

Here's one suggestion for changing the transmission filter on the 2500 series and the 3000 series . . . once the deck is off, either park on a steep up-grade or jack up the front end (please support the weight with jack stands, never trust a jack alone or get under a heavy piece of equipment without properly supporting the weight!) so that when you spin off the old filter, less oil will drain out. Of course, you still have to be fairly quick about having the new filter ready (use your finger to wet the seal with oil ahead of time) to spin back on but by following these steps, you can minimize the loss of that expensive tranny fluid.

I usually use a little less than a quart to refill the tranny and that includes the oil that was in the filter as well as what drains out while swapping filters!

Nittany