Cattle Crossings, Material ?

[Spike56]

I have a couple of slopes that water, will at times, run across. Unfortunately, the cattle need to get thru these same areas. Been asking around to see what types of material one might use on the ground (if anything) so they will not carve a cattle trail thru this area. Concrete is out of the question. What I really would like to know is there a size / grade of rock/stone one can lay on the area that they would walk across and allow grass to grow thru ?
I have access to some 3-5" rip rock (limestone, jagged edge) for example, but I know that is too sharp of stone. Actually, I would not even want to drive across that stuff - and I need to cross there also. So, has anyone build such a crossing ? What type of aggregate did you use ?
Just trying to keep the erosion down, but have something cattle & I can drive on.

 

[ponytug]

Are you talking about making a "ford" across a swale? If so, I think that you could certainly use the rip rock. If you can, dig down five to ten inches and then put the rip rock in, and compact the rock into the soil with a roller or bucket until you get a solid and flat surface. If the subsoil is really soft, I would dig down and then put a layer of geotextile down, and then put your rip rock.

If you are talking about a stream that has appreciable flood flow, that rip rock is unlikely to stay put, and you would have to go to a larger size rock, but in many areas that much water flow gets you into riparian and navigable waterway regulations.

All the best,

Peter

 

[oosik]

A picture or two would sure help .............

 

[newbury]

And we all love pictures!

 

[Hay Dude]

How swift of a current will run through it when it rains? Even a moderate current will roll the rocks downstream. When it’s dry, dig a shallow swale across the trench where the cattle cross at 90* to the water flow, maybe a foot deep and the width of your loader bucket. Fill the swale with rocks. That way the water will have less capability of washing your rocks “downstream”
If you have access to less sharp 5-6” rocks and you can lay them in the cross ditch and drive over them to compact, that would help their hooves.

 

[3Ts]

I know you said no concrete and that stone was ok, what about concrete blocks that are intended to be driven on and allows grass to grow thru them? What size of area are you looking at? BTW, These are not the normal cinder blocks you get at the big box store. You may have to order them - I've no idea as to the cost. Nor have I used them, but have seen them used in the neighborhood.

 

[Spike56]

I know you said no concrete and that stone was ok, what about concrete blocks that are intended to be driven on and allows grass to grow thru them? What size of area are you looking at? BTW, These are not the normal cinder blocks you get at the big box store. You may have to order them - I've no idea as to the cost. Nor have I used them, but have seen them used in the neighborhood.

View attachment 731972

3Ts, I thought about something just like that. Would be quite a job to install, but might work. The "only" issue "could" be driving my tractor / truck across it might mess it up ? The soils here are.... crap when wet. But, using something like that would seem to be the best option. Thanks

 

[ponytug]

The open pore cinder/cement drainage blocks used for driveways are likely going to be unappealing to cattle for crossing. It is going to be hard on their hooves unless it gets fully filled. (Think cattle guard.)

If the blocks are placed correctly, they will hold up to your tractor just fine. I think that if you have clay soil that liquifies, those blocks are also going to be a challenge to place; my guess is that you would need to dig down 18" or so, put in geotextile, then two six inch lifts layers of base rock (0-3/8"), compacting each lift, and then put your blocks in, spread gravel to fill the pores, and then compact that. But they really are meant for flat use, and then where is your water flowing? If you want place the blocks on a slope, you will probably need a flat steel plate on the lower edge to support the sloped blocks to keep them from shifting.(A steel edge guard for lawns, or water tanks should work.)

I have liquid clay soil when wet as well. To make things semipermanent I think that using a base layer of geotextile makes a big difference in keeping whatever material you put on top from not just disappearing into the ooze. Of course, enough material on top of the geotextile and compacted so that the upper layer doesn't shift on the geotextile.

Just my $0.02...

All the best,

Peter

 

[joeyd]

I know you said no concrete and that stone was ok, what about concrete blocks that are intended to be driven on and allows grass to grow thru them? What size of area are you looking at? BTW, These are not the normal cinder blocks you get at the big box store. You may have to order them - I've no idea as to the cost. Nor have I used them, but have seen them used in the neighborhood.

View attachment 731972

With just a quick google search, these are called turf blocks and are about 16"x24"x3" they come 94 sq/ft per bundle/block (2200#s)and are about $250 per bundle or block. They need a compacted sub base, geo fabric and 6" base to let the water seep into then get absorbed by the soil and a sand setting base according to the spec sheet.

 

[JJT]

Is the stream too big for a culvert? My experience - anything less than a culvert washes out in the spring. I'd rather build it right and build it once.