3-Point Hitch cat. 1??

[rasp21]

O.K.,, yesterday I looked at a Iseki landhope 177 SCUT.. 23 horse I think???Anyway, It has heavy lug ag. tires, 4 WD,, I was looking at the lower 3pt. arms, and it looks like with an attch. of any size, the lower arms would be into the lug tires.. Due to the arm spread to get on the hitch pins.. I want to run a KK 48" rear mower, but even with the pins moved to the inside, the arms look to be real close to the tire lugs,, not a good deal. I have heard of CAT. ! limited,, but is this something I can make work?? or should I just wait for a larger CUT??With a regular CAT.! 3pt. I have been using this mower on my Ford 1500,, no problems.. The Iseki has a 4 way snow blade on the front,, and a rear blade,, but the rear blade was modified down to just 24 inch tip to tip on the hitch pins,, so this tells me that someone else has had to work around this with a fix.. Any advise?? Thanks for any help,, by the way, this is the best help forum I have found, and a lot of real good advice from a lot of rreal good folks.. Thanks in advance.. rasp21

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

A cat. 1 setup on these smaller tractors is less than ideal. Do you know if the rear tires are positioned for the widest stance? That can help some if they can move out more. Otherwise all you can do is take up as much lateral movement with the adjusters once the implement has been attached and verify it's not hitting the tire lugs.

 

[284 International]

There are also pins that have extended shanks. You could replace the factory pins with longer ones pointed inward, and it should work fine. There are also lift arms with more offset available, too.

 

[NHmitch]

There are also pins that have extended shanks. You could replace the factory pins with longer ones pointed inward, and it should work fine. There are also lift arms with more offset available, too.

My implements are 33 inches tip to tip, and I have no problem. I also added the fast hitch attachments, and now I just back up, and raise the lift arms under the pins, and they lock in place. That way you don't have to pull the arms farther apart when you hook up an attachment. The only implement that I had to turn the pins in, and add longer than standar pins, was my dirt scoop, and that that was only an issue when it has about 700lbs of dirt or gravel in it. It was lightly touching the tires when it was loaded down, however now that I tightened the turnbuckles on either side of the lift arms, so they do not allow the arms to hit the tires. As a combination of these steps, I have not had a single issue using full size Cat 1 implements. The fast hitch attachments listed below, extend your arms out a bit, and that also seems to help. Hope that helps a bit..

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Field-FTF-01FH-Change-System-Category/dp/B0042F5LBC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1338002825&sr=8-4]Amazon.com: Field Tuff FTF-01FH Fast Change Hitch System Category 1 and 2, Black: Home Improvement[/ame]

This is my tractor with the fast hitch lift arm ends attached. The length of my draw bay is 32 inches.

 

[284 International]

I see that you have highly offset lower arms. I have noticed that there is quite a large variation in the imported machines with respect to the three point hitches. I have a Yanmar YM2000, a markedly larger machine than the Beaver. It cannot use normal category one I implements. In contrast, the much smaller YM1401D and my ST1440 (equivalent to the Beaver) will both easily fit standard category I implements. My YM240, the US market YM2000, will take them, too. Different wheel settings and lower arm designs makes all the difference.

There are multiple good ways to reach a successful conclusion, and the fast hitch additions seem to help, too.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Looks like the fast hitch ends is a good option. Thanks for pointing it out. I'm hoping to modify all my lateral support hardware to be on the inside of the lower lift arms instead of the outside to provide better stability and reduce bending on the lower arms connecting rod. Last time I had a trailer hooked up, lateral movement was clearly an issue with them on the outside. I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to accomplish this yet but I do know that w/o some sort of fast hitch, I'll be constantly tensioning and then loosening the take-ups every time I attach an implement. The fast hitch design, I think, will solve that problem. Thanks again for the tip.

 

[rasp21]

Thanks guys for all the replys,, will see what I can do.. thanks again,, as usuall,, good info,,, rasp21

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Any thoughts on this style for quick-connect? Might be worth the extra $20 with shipping.

NorTrac Three-Point Quick Hitch — Category 1 | 3-Point + PTO Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[NHmitch]

Any thoughts on this style for quick-connect? Might be worth the extra $20 with shipping.

NorTrac Three-Point Quick Hitch Category 1 | 3-Point + PTO Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

That may actually be a very good value, and idea. I had thought about buying one myself when I bought the fast hitch, however I wanted the ability to move the arms in if I needed to, and I use my carry all almost every day, and I was not sure if that model would bang against the back of the frame on the carry all. It may not, and it does look very convenient, I may still get this style in the future, because it would be nice to just back up, and not have to get off of the tractor. For me, the fast hitch arms have worked great, and they were also the right, option at the time, because I have been considering a hydraulic toplink, to use with my dirt scoop in place of an FEL, that is very expensive.

 

[NHmitch]

I just wanted to re-visit this thread, and show you the full size dirt scoop on the back of my G154. I works great. I used it today, to dig down a hill side in the woods, and to shovel a huge pile of shavings. I usually also use this for gravel, and dirt.