Cat 1 Three Point Lower Lift Arm Dimensions

[duwem]

Per Request, I measured my lift arms on my S373D Beaver tractor.


See attached pictures.


Refer to the thrid picture: By loosening up the sway chains (plus bushings to step up from 5/8" pins to 7/8") you can use Cat 0 attactments. The problem is that the where the top link attaches to the tractor is too high, so the top link and bottom arms are not parallel and the attachment does not go up level. I plan to add a third attaching point to the tractor bracket to allow the cat 0 lift link to attach right above the PTO shield. I will need to lengthen my top link as well.

 

[Freakingstang]

Thank you very much! Is the distance for your cat 1 implements 21" or 26"? I've noticed some sub compact implements are 21 inches between the eyes instead of the standard 26".

 

[duwem]

I assume you mean Cat 0?

If so mine are 21"

 

[Freakingstang]

No, I meant cat 1


Is your drawbar setup 26" wide or 21" wide? I can make a 21" cat 1 drawbar fit with my Existing arms, but it won't work on my back blade or box blade, hence why I got a 26" wide drawbar

 

[duwem]

My cat 0 drawbar, Brinly moldboard plows, and my A frame are all 21"

I dont have any cat 1 stuff.

 

[Freakingstang]

Gotcha. Sorry I assumed that was cat1 Stuff. Do you think there is enough room for the arms with another 2 1/2" on each side? I was given a 4' box blade and bought a 5' scraper blade and they are 26". I would like to use them instead of selling everything and staring over...

 

[evan price]

I've got a S470 Buck which is more or less the same as the Beaver III in terms of the 3-pt hitch setup, I run standard Cat 1 gear on mine and IIRC that's 26". I have to be careful about getting the sway chains (as in the pic above) tight to prevent swinging the implement into the rear tires, especially the RM48 mower. However I am running 8x18 ag lug tires and not the wider turf tires you guys have. I do know however my Ford rear scoop will just barely fit, but it won't dump because the arms won't go far enough apart to lift it high and then dump without hitting the tires.

 

[duwem]

The arms and the tractor are designed for Cat 1 so I dont see why it wouldnt work, like said maybe you need to keep your sway chains tight, but if cat 1 stuff didnt fit the tractor, they would have made it cat 0.

Are the 8" wide ag tires typical vs the 9.5" turfs?

Shopping (dreaming about) putting ag's on my tractor some day. Those rear tires can get $$$.

 

[284 International]

One thing that I've done for my B6000 Kubota and one of my Yanmar machines is to reverse the pins on the implement, so they face inward instead of out. That seems to work well and allows the smaller machines to fit standard category I implements.

If that isn't possible (some configurations of implement pins can't be reversed and still function correctly) you could go with the cheap replacement arms. Instead of heating them and bending them yourself, I would go to a steel yard. The guys around here only charge a couple bucks to use their vast press. They can just crimp some bends directly into the arm, and it would be precise, repeatable, and consistent.

The cheap replacement lower arms from Agri-supply I've bought work ok, but they are definitely flimsier material than OEM. I would expect to bend them trying to back fill with a box blade. It would be worse if they had a bend in them. The Beaver is light enough that you'll maybe be able to get away with it, but if they have a thicker heavy duty option and you're planning on pushing with the box as well as pulling, I'd suggest going with those.

 

[Freakingstang]

I was going to get a set of the yanmar arms as suggested, but a buddy gave me a set of brand new John Deere lift arms off of a 4000 series tractor. They were straight other than the ends. Did some heating and used a press. Thanks for the pics and measurements. Just need to weld on some tabs for the sway chains.