Case Model 10, 3 pt, PTO, sickle bar mower

[dkinzl1]

Does anyone know if the T-10 manual covers the Case Model 10 3 pt PTO sickle bar mower, belts and pitman arm, no wheels-free hanging?



I picked one up for $50 from a guy near home. He said it was working 2 years ago, but if not, I figure I could scrap it for that! Looks like it should go, but I'm one of those guys who likes to at least try to know what their doing. I've never been around a sickle mower and don't know squat about how to make adjustments, change out parts, etc. Anyway, I keep looking for a manual specific to the old Case #10, but maybe it doesn't exist? T-10 manuals seem to be readily available, but I don't know if it covers my piece.

 

[Roadworthy]

I know nothing about it but it looks really coo. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

I'm going to say you have nothing to loose but to expend some time giving it some TLC and seeing if you can make it work.

 

[LouNY]

It is a pitman type of sickle bar mower,
that type can't be run while lifter or tilted down very steep.
If you do that wooden pitman arm will break.
The pitman should be held (clamped) to a ball on the actual sickle that needs frequent greasing.
The knife sections are riveted on, to replace a knife you have to either grind the rivet head off and use a punch to drive out the rest,
the other way to remove a section is to place it in a vise with the knife pointing down close the vise till the knife is almost bound and let the bar of the sickle sit on the top of the vise jaw and sharply hit the flat section of the blade and you can shear the rivets off.
We used to sharpen the sickle knife sections with a grind stone with a large V profile, now they are usually just replaced with new that have a serrated edge.
The guards (fingers) are bolted on and also have a shearing section, some guards that section is replaceable some you just replace the guards.
The hold down clips may have shims in them they are what will hold the knife sections down to the guard shearing sections so that the whole thing works to cut or shear the grasses.
Many times the guards will be adjusted with a big hammer up or down to maintain the straight line for the sickle to run against, some guards will have shims (not many).
To cut decently the knifes and the guard shear plates have to be sharp and adjusted right.

 

[dkinzl1]

I'm going to say you have nothing to loose but to expend some time giving it some TLC and seeing if you can make it work.

Wyobuckaroo: That's the plan! But hoping for a manual to help me along. I'm curious why a Wyoming buckaroo ended up in British Columbia, Canada.

 

[dkinzl1]

It is a pitman type of sickle bar mower,
that type can't be run while lifter or tilted down very steep.
If you do that wooden pitman arm will break.
The pitman should be held (clamped) to a ball on the actual sickle that needs frequent greasing.
The knife sections are riveted on, to replace a knife you have to either grind the rivet head off and use a punch to drive out the rest,
the other way to remove a section is to place it in a vise with the knife pointing down close the vise till the knife is almost bound and let the bar of the sickle sit on the top of the vise jaw and sharply hit the flat section of the blade and you can shear the rivets off.
We used to sharpen the sickle knife sections with a grind stone with a large V profile, now they are usually just replaced with new that have a serrated edge.
The guards (fingers) are bolted on and also have a shearing section, some guards that section is replaceable some you just replace the guards.
The hold down clips may have shims in them they are what will hold the knife sections down to the guard shearing sections so that the whole thing works to cut or shear the grasses.
Many times the guards will be adjusted with a big hammer up or down to maintain the straight line for the sickle to run against, some guards will have shims (not many).
To cut decently the knifes and the guard shear plates have to be sharp and adjusted right.

LouNY: Those are some really good points and a good start. I wouldn't have known about greasing the steel ball in the pitman arm unless there is a zirk there, and not to hit it more often then others. Not being able to cut at a down angle or free hanging is troublesome. The main reason I was looking for a sickle mower is to cut along a pond and drainage ditch. Not sure this will fill that roll now. Like I said though, I only have $50 into it and know I could sell it for that. Hopefully I can find a manual for more direction.

 

[LouNY]

LouNY: Those are some really good points and a good start. I wouldn't have known about greasing the steel ball in the pitman arm unless there is a zirk there, and not to hit it more often then others. Not being able to cut at a down angle or free hanging is troublesome. The main reason I was looking for a sickle mower is to cut along a pond and drainage ditch. Not sure this will fill that roll now. Like I said though, I only have $50 into it and know I could sell it for that. Hopefully I can find a manual for more direction.

You can have some up or down angle I can't think of any specific number of degrees at this time,
but if you start running it on level ground and start going around a bank that drops of or just raising your 3 point with the far end of the sickle still on the ground you will hear the difference and actually see the pitman shaft start bowing and jumping and that's your indication that it's a bit much, the same as raising the far end of the sickle with it operating it will happen also.

 

[tude]

I have the manual for the T-10 trail type mower which is a towed version. It is basically the triangular plate on a 2 wheel trailer. I have scanned it into a pdf file.

 

[jhamblett]

Bump!

 

[wrenchman123ca]

I have the manual for the T-10 trail type mower which is a towed version. It is basically the triangular plate on a 2 wheel trailer. I have scanned it into a pdf file.

looking for a manual for a case 10. care to share?? dj.martin2014@yahoo.com