Case 530CK fuel tank removal

[CliffH]

Greetings,
I was directed to this site and your posts but can't figure out how to find the posts referenced: 327115, page 17 and 384113, page 2 ??

I have a 1964 530CK with Model 32 loader/hoe. My rear fuel tank bushing dried up and fell out allowing the bracket to rub a hole or twist the stud anchor- resulting in a fuel leak onto the battery! It is a steady drip and will drain a gallon in a few hours.
My question is - How do I remove the tank? I can tell it is not going to be a simple task!

Awaiting your reply. Work has to be done outside and rain expected this weekend and all next week.

Cliff

 

[DJ54]

From the looks of this picture from the parts catalog of the 530CK from Case Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for fuel tank and injection system, (188) diesel engine Case CE | MyCNHi US Store remove hood, cowling, and nuts from the 3 studs holding it in place it should come out/off. Tabs with holes near the bottom I assume hold the hood, and rear cowling in place.

 

[CliffH]

From the looks of this picture from the parts catalog of the 530CK from Case Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for fuel tank and injection system, (188) diesel engine Case CE | MyCNHi US Store remove hood, cowling, and nuts from the 3 studs holding it in place it should come out/off. Tabs with holes near the bottom I assume hold the hood, and rear cowling in place.

Unfortunately, the crossbar on the loader will not allow it to lift straight up or tilt enough to clear engine/air cleaner or steering column.
C

 

[CliffH]

Got it out!! Thanks to an old timer that remembered that years ago - he took the steering pedestal loose at the transmission case!!
Cowling unbolted from tank- 2 front sides, 3 rear at dash
3 Tank mounting studs were already removed: Front/bottom corners, rear/center

1) Remove the battery.
2) unhook fuel line at sediment bowl
3)* Remove 4 bolts at base of pedestal- 2 long(front), 2 short.
4) Lean the pedestal back.
5) Pull tank backward and up

Things I learned during the process:
*3) Put the transmission in 4th gear so the dash can come down farther.
4) Remove 4 bolts at base of pedestal- 2 long(front), 2 short.
5)Slide the base forward slightly so steering wheel can clear seat
6) Lean the pedestal back and down, moving dash with pedestal
7) Pull tank backward and up
8) Sediment bowl will hook on everything possible - cables, hoses, wires. Do an occasional hand sweep under tank to unhook - or have someone stand on Right side (ahead of hydraulic controls) to sweep obstacles. You can remove the sediment bowl but the valve will still catch. It will take longer to remove and replace the valve than to sweep.
9) As you pull the tank backward, lift and turn it slightly toward the right rear tire to put the fuel valve more into the open.
Less time to lift the tank out than it takes to type or read.

Will clean it up and give more details later.

C

 

[DJ54]

Glad you got it..!! I had a 310B about 15 years ago I had to split to do some clutch work. I removed the backhoe, and loader to be able to get the job done. The 310B was the model before the 530CK. Both were basically their industrial model Ag. tractors with the loader and backhoe attached. Luckily, I found a service manual for the 530ck online for mine that had directions/pictures on how to do repairs. They are basically the same tractor/loader/backhoe. Here is a link to it, hopefully it will help you in the future. Case 530CK - Manuals