Case 310G Dozer

[rtimgray]

Hi everybody - I posted a while back that I was looking for a small dozer for use around the farm, clearing out some undergrowth in our woody areas and some small dirt moving. I was looking along the lines of a Komatsu D-20 or Mitsubish BDG2 or something like that. However, a small dozer has come up for sale just a few miles down the road from me. It appears to be a Case D310G, serial # 3029101. The seller is out of town for the next few days, so I haven't had a chance to talke to him, start it or run it - so it may be total junk.

What I was wondering was what would be some good things to look for when examing an old dozer like this. I did pull the dipstick and the oil was black, but didn't look brand new. The rear sprockets are broad and flat on the ends (not pointed ) - is that good or bad? Does anybody have any idea how old this dozer is? It appears to have a four way blade, but again, I didn't look that close. Does anybody have experience running old dozers like this - it looks like it has a 3 speed transmission and reverse (maybe). I know I'll get alot of this answered when I talk to the seller, just thought I might get some pointers from you guys.

Also, any idea what it would be worth. My searches on the internet lead me to believe it should be worth somewhere between $3,000 and $5,000, depending on condition. I appreciate any comments.

Thanks for the help.

 

[EddieWalker]

Don't know that model of dozer, so no comment on that. I do know a bit about owning a dozer and have a few thoughts on that. First, they are allot of fun when they are working. Nothing can compare to what it can do!!

Are you mechanical and able to work on it yourself? ALL DOZERS are money pits that require massive amounts of labor and money to keep operating. It's the nature of what they do. Don't expect to find anybody who will come out to your place to work on it for you. It doesn't matter what you are willing to pay, it's not worth it to a mechanic who knows what he's doing. He already has more work then he can handle and from much bigger clients. Anybody that's willing to show up and do the work for you is already suspect. When mine first broke down, I had three different mechanics say they will be out there that week. None ever showed up and I begun that part of my life of learning to fix it myself.

If you start thinking you are serious about buying it, go to the parts counter at Case and ask the guys there about it. The ones that I've met are very knowledgeable and also quite opinionated. If it was a lousy model, or a piece of junk, they have been known to tell you that. Also be sure you can get parts for it.

I'm sure you've read Larry's posts on his dozer. It's a small one that he's very happy with. I'd PM him if you really want to learn more about small dozers, but also read all of his posts. He's VERY good at fixing his equipement himself. I told him that a small dozer isn't good for anything, and he's proven me wrong. In the right conditions, with realistic goals, it seems to be a fine piece of equipment.

If you are in heavy timber or underbrush, then I'd hesitate on a small dozer. Anything under 100hp is too small to be usefull in my opinion. You can always get some things done, but you'll find it's very limited and extremly time consuming. Even with my 168hp dozer, I find it faster and easier to take out my larger trees with my backhoe. I also find the backhoe does allot nicer job of taking out small trees and saplings in areas that I'm being selective.

The best thing about a dozer is they seem to hold there value. You can always sell it for about what you pay for it. Highbeam did that. I forget the numbers, but remember that he bought a small dozer, used it around his place, sold it for about what he paid for it and then hired he work out. He'd be another good person to PM and ask about what a small dozer can do.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[rtimgray]

Thanks for the quick reply Eddie. I know you are a dozer owner so I do put some weight behind your advice.

I am a fairly capable mechanic - not on a professional level, by any means, but I do have a shop facility and a good selection of decent tools. I do almost all my own mechanic work on tractors and vehicles and have performed several engine/transmission/axle replacement on vehicles. Having said that, I'm by no means a heavy equipment mechanic, meaning that I've never fooled with undercarriages, final drives, sprockets, etc. I do have a couple of friends who work on heavy equipment that I can get advice and (possibly) help from. As far as the normal engine maintenance and repair, I'm fairly confident I can handle that.

As I've mentioned before, most of the work I would like to do would involve cleaning out a lot of underbrush and saplings from some forests that we have. I've done quite a bit of clearing with my 45 horse DK 45 and would hope to be able to push about the same amount as that. Mainly, I need something more manueverable in the woods than my tractor, and also something that I'm not going to get a flat tire on when I'm getting rid of thorn bushes. I've used a Case 850 quite a bit, and it was too big to do the kind of work in the woods that I want to do.

There is still some major clearing work in some fields that we have that I will have to rent a larger dozer to do. I was just hoping to get a smaller one that I could use at my leasure to do the work in the woods and maybe smooth out some ditches/gulleys in the fields.

I figured if it is a decent machine (and as I've said, I haven't even heard it run and drive, so it may be a junker and that may make my decision), I figure is could be worth $4,000. Given the price of scrap, it might be worth $500 to $1000 just based on what it weighs, so my total exposure might only be about $3,000 if it grenades on me. Now don't get me wrong - I'm not so rich that I wouldn't miss $3,000 - it's just my way of justifying a purchase to myself.

Thanks again for the advice. Take care.

 

[BarryinMN]

For another datapoint I picked up a refurbished JD350 6 way blade dozer/bh 5 years ago for $10K. Do about the same tasks as you. One of my first tasks was grubbing boulders out of sideslopes.

Pointy sprockets are bad. Another test is (after it starts) put the blade against a solid object & let the tracks spin checking both clutch operations. Loose pins & bushings and various oil leaks might be visible. Bubbles in or a leaky radiator might signal spendy repairs. Cracks around the final drive or transmission housings signal a hard life.

I deliberately limit equipment buys to stay within my trailer weight constraints. Last week I tore a steel hydraulic line on my TLB right at a cast iron block. Way beyond my ability to weld it back together. Hauled it to my local Blacksmith's & he brazed it back as new. Total bill including making a pair of 9'x1" steel threaded end rods with tabs welded & drilled on the other end for another project was $49, $35 was the steel cost.

 

[John White]

AS Eddie said a dozer can turn into a big money pit if not carefuel. If is is painted yellow, you pull out the green when you need repairs. The good thing about a small dozer is that usually it is eaisly transportable. I haul mine on a 12000 skid trailer. You will be surprised what you can do with a small dozer, if given the time. Just dont expect to push over large trees. I have owned 4 small dozers. MF 200B , Case 350 , Allis HD 4 and presently a Mitsbushi BD2j. Most of thease dozers are old and may need extensive repair, so be careful. You can get into some real monery quick. I paid over $3000 for a set of used tracks and front idlers. By it being a Case you could probably locate used parts for it eaiser than some of the others. I use mine in my business. I get a lot of small jobs. If I get into a larger dozer, then I am competing with every one else who has a Case or JD 450. I've got to get a larger truck, trailer, CDL, and the cost of insurance goes up. Working on a dozer takes big tools and can be hard work, when you get into replacing tracks, rollers and if you have to split it for any trans. work or engine work. If you can find a dozer in good shape ( most older dozers are pretty wore out, thats why they are being sold) take care of it, maintain it, you can usually get out of it what you paid for it. Not counting my time I made money or broke even with every dozer I owned. The use of the dozer was free and the money I made. I guess there is still some kid and a sand box in all of us. Its just the price of our toys now.

 

[jfh0jfh]

Thanks for the quick reply Eddie. I know you are a dozer owner so I do put some weight behind your advice.

I am a fairly capable mechanic - not on a professional level, by any means, but I do have a shop facility and a good selection of decent tools. I do almost all my own mechanic work on tractors and vehicles and have performed several engine/transmission/axle replacement on vehicles. Having said that, I'm by no means a heavy equipment mechanic, meaning that I've never fooled with undercarriages, final drives, sprockets, etc. I do have a couple of friends who work on heavy equipment that I can get advice and (possibly) help from. As far as the normal engine maintenance and repair, I'm fairly confident I can handle that.

As I've mentioned before, most of the work I would like to do would involve cleaning out a lot of underbrush and saplings from some forests that we have. I've done quite a bit of clearing with my 45 horse DK 45 and would hope to be able to push about the same amount as that. Mainly, I need something more manueverable in the woods than my tractor, and also something that I'm not going to get a flat tire on when I'm getting rid of thorn bushes. I've used a Case 850 quite a bit, and it was too big to do the kind of work in the woods that I want to do.

There is still some major clearing work in some fields that we have that I will have to rent a larger dozer to do. I was just hoping to get a smaller one that I could use at my leasure to do the work in the woods and maybe smooth out some ditches/gulleys in the fields.

I figured if it is a decent machine (and as I've said, I haven't even heard it run and drive, so it may be a junker and that may make my decision), I figure is could be worth $4,000. Given the price of scrap, it might be worth $500 to $1000 just based on what it weighs, so my total exposure might only be about $3,000 if it grenades on me. Now don't get me wrong - I'm not so rich that I wouldn't miss $3,000 - it's just my way of justifying a purchase to myself.

Thanks again for the advice. Take care.

I've had 3 dozers and have a Case 450C now. I wouldn't have bought this one if I hadn't known the owner who bought it new, maintained it well, etc.

I only use a dozer for grading so a small one is fine for me. Larger ones are too hard to work on.

Here's the main thing: dozers are huge money pits as the other gent said. Unless you luck out or REALLY know how to evaluate a machine (I don't) you'll spend a fortune on a cheap one. My neighbor A bought a JD 450 for $12K, spent $10K on it, sold it for $12K; B bought a MF for $8K, spent $8K, sold it for $8K; C bought TD7 for $9K, spent $10, ... D bought a TD8 .... blah blah.

If I were buying one I'd spend $15-$20K, use it gently and resell it when done. There are decent ones for less but you ave to know what you're doing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It appears to be a Case D310G, serial # 3029101. The seller is out of town for the next few days, so I haven't had a chance to talke to him, start it or run it - so it may be total junk.

Does anybody have any idea how old this dozer is? quote]

I am assuming that it is diesel, (gas was still available?) look 2"-3" directly below the dipstick. There should be a date cast in the block for the engine manufacture date. For instance my 310E is 5-26-61. These small dozers are great. I paid $3200 for mine, used it for about a years worth of weekends and had to change out 1 final. $1200 and a days work, not that big of a deal. Used it for another 3 years and blew a head gasket. decided to do a little more than the head gasket. Replaced radiator, upgraded hydraulic pump, all hydraulic cylinders, still need all new hoses and paint. When I get finished (someday ) I will have around $7500 invested. These tractors are great for what they were intended for, and that is smaller jobs. Oh, one other thing, with a 6 way blade and rippers my 310 weighs in right around 10,000lbs.

If the price is right, take a serious look at it.

 

[rtimgray]

(This may end up being something of a double post - I thought I typed a reply and posted it but it didn't show up so I'll try it again).

Update on the dozer - I talked briefly with the seller yesteday. He said it is a 1966 model, diesel, start and runs great, strong hydraulics, and had a new clutch (and thought that he had the receipt). The seller buys/sells/rents small dozers - has 12 right now - and also does in the field repairs on small dozers (Cat and Case). The dozer didn't have batteries on it because he took them off to put on one of his rentals. He said he would furnish two brand new batteries if I bought it. We didn't have time to start and run it (he and his wife were heading out). He was previously committed for Saturday and Sunday, but we exchanged numbers and planned to get together and try it on Monday.

Here's the bad news: Asking price is $5500. This seems a bit high by $1500 to $2500 depending on the condition of the dozer. I will try to go by this morning and get some pictures to post and get your guys opinions.

Thanks for the help. Take care.

 

[rtimgray]

Another update-

Met with the seller today and we fired it up. He had not had a chance to put new batteries on it (he had been to doctor with a brown recluse bite today and just got back when I got there). He hooked the starter to the battery of his F-150, hit the switch and the dozer started right up with just a belch of black smoke, then clear. It ran excellent, everywhere between all out and idling without problem. If it was at idle and you hit the throttle, it would send a shot of smoke and then level out. After warming up, it did appear to have a bit of blow-by. He said he would not be too concerned about it and after talking to others, it may not be too big of a deal.

The blade is a 4-way hydraulic (up down, pivot left right, there is no angle like on a 6-way). It seemed to work smooth, although a total of 3 hydraulic fittings were leaking, but looking like either tightening or replacing the fittings could handle that. The blade cylinders easily lifted the little dozer up.

The transmission is a 3 forward, 1 reverse manual. He could not find the receipt for the new clutch, but assured me it was new (by the way, I talked to three different local people about the seller and they all had the same comments - Joe is honest, will treat you fair, if he says its a good tractor, its a good tractor, etc). The tranny worked great, clutch felt as good as the one on my DK45. The steering was accomplished by two levers, and the old dozer moved exactly how it should have with very little effort. I wasn't able to push much dirt (because were were in a nice field near a main road and he didn't want it torn up) but we did put the blade against a big tree and both tracks pulled the same.

We talked some about the cost and said that since he is a dealer, he would have to charge tax - but it is actually for a farm, so he said as long as I would fill out the exemption paper, he would not charge tax. He lowered the price to $5,300. I talked with one of my buddies that runs an excavation business - he knows Joe, made good comments about him, and asked what I was looking at. I told him a 310G and asked what it was worth - he said "I don't know, 5 or 6 thousand?"

I think I'm gonna get a dozer. Will I regret it? We'll probably find out.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll try to post some pictures if I actually complete the sale.

 

[diyDave]

One thing I didn't see mentioned here- Undercarriage. The word that stops dozer sales in their tracks-literally. You need to get a good look at the tracks- Is the machine running on the pins? Are the rollers worn out? Do the tracks have the requisite number of links? Front idlers worn? Does the mechanism that tensions the tracks, be it mechanical or hydraulic, or grease gun operated, work? Lots of things to look at there, get some pics posted, these guys here have some experience, and sharp eyes, can spot potential problems that I haven't mentioned here, too.