Carryall for your carryall ...

   / Carryall for your carryall ... #11  
With the cantilever approach I took the box has to be quite robust, otherwise the first bump with a set of tools in the box will result in structural failure. If you use 1x6 pine for the side panels I think you will have to change the design. Do you have an approach in mind using 1x pine, or 3/4" plywood?


Nevertheless, I confess to *really* liking scrap wood projects. Any time I have a scrap length of ANYTHING left over I try to devise a project around it. :licking:

Regards,
Wrooster

No I didn't give it much thought, if you did it with left overs, even better :)

I once made a carpenter's tool box so big/HD, once filled it took 2 people to carry it :ashamed:

JB.
 
   / Carryall for your carryall ... #13  
Carry all's come in handy. Sometimes I need the four wheeler out in the woods, so I can get to spots I can't get with the tractor. It's only about 3/10 of a mile walk, but I'm to lazy for that. 0826121506.jpg
I like the carryall for the carryall, I may have to steel it too.
 
   / Carryall for your carryall ... #14  
With the cantilever approach I took the box has to be quite robust, otherwise the first bump with a set of tools in the box will result in structural failure. If you use 1x6 pine for the side panels I think you will have to change the design. Do you have an approach in mind using 1x pine, or 3/4" plywood?

The way I joined the side panels to the front and back pieces was a tradeoff. In general, with such a short length of wood (especially hem-fir) you would never put big lag bolts into the end grain at both ends -- doing so is a recipe for splitting the wood lengthwise. But for this application it is the strongest way to do it, as you are pulling on the end grain; this is in contrast to lagging the side panels to the ends of the front and back pieces, where the weight in the box wants to "twist" the side panels. (And this is primary the reason why 1x6 pine will not work in a cantilevered design -- that twisting under load will quickly crack the pine).

Nevertheless, I confess to *really* liking scrap wood projects. Any time I have a scrap length of ANYTHING left over I try to devise a project around it. :licking:

Regards,
Wrooster


Great design, with the "slip on" hooks/brackets and your "cantilever approach.".

Also, kudos for your BEAUTIFUL shop, stone patio, stone wall and house/property! (I'm guessing you did the stone work yourself?)

And I think I follow your engineering/design reasoning (above) but, not being a woodworker, I'm puzzled by one thing:

Why did you made the countersink wells so deep, for your lag bolts? I would have thought just countersinking them enough so that the bolt heads were flush with the sides would have been sufficient, and that additional countersinking would take away some of the strength inherent in your design?

And I can't tell from the pics (or my reading glasses? LOL) but did you through-bolt the end-pieces, where you did the countersinking (using "ready-rod/all-thread" etc...) or did you use lag bolts at those locations?

Just trying to learn here--one day, I HOPE to be as organized as you obviously are! LOL

My Hoe
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

1972 Ford F600 Grain Truck (A50397)
1972 Ford F600...
2018 HINO 268 26FT BOX TRUCK (A50505)
2018 HINO 268 26FT...
2016 Isuzu NPR LCF (A50397)
2016 Isuzu NPR LCF...
2007 Case IH 2588 4WD Combine (A50657)
2007 Case IH 2588...
2023 Ford Explorer SUV (A48082)
2023 Ford Explorer...
2015 John Deere TS Gator 4x4 Utility Cart (A49346)
2015 John Deere TS...
 
Top