Car Hauler or Equipment Trailer -- What is the difference please?

[newbury]

Slide out ramps can be a PAIN but with proper maintenance that can be overcome. Being to short can be a PAIN but can't be overcome. As Chris wrote the fold up ramps greatly limit how you can use the last two feet. I know, I have them on my Hudson.

And realize that in some areas you MAY be cited for hauling a trailer which exceeds your tow capacity but if you keep appearances clean and well strapped it seems people rarely get stopped.

 

[arnoldziffel]

Thanks for the feedback.

I've decided to go 18' and slide-out ramps I think. I'll settle upon a 7,000 - 8,000 lb. model.

Spindifferent's posted photo was a big help. I'm very visual and that looks like the right set-up for my needs. I hadn't carefully evaluated the need for extra length and balancing tongue weight. Various comments made that a priority.

When I find the right deal I'll be ready to pounce.

Thanks.

 

[Capt Dan]

The difference in the two is also the spacing of the structural cross members. Reading the specs of trailers a car hauler is often 24 inch apart and a equipment trailer is 16 inches.

 

[motownbrowne]

What kind of truck do you have? Tow ratings are very confusing. First you have gvwr, which is the max weight the truck or trailer can haul, including their empty weight. Each vehicle has this rating. Then you have gawr, the max you can put on any given axle, again, including its own weight. Now you have gcwr, which is a manufacturer's recommendation on how much your truck and trailer can weigh, combined, in total. This, unlike the other ratings is not a law. The gcwr takes engine power and axle gearing into account. For example. My f250 has the smallest motor available in that truck. However, other than that it's the same truck as an f250 with a 460 or 7.3 diesel. So, if the brakes, frame, and suspension are the same I know I can tow the same load safely. Maybe not as fast, and maybe with some more clutch slipping, but I'm alright with that. However, ford lists my gcwr considerably lower than the more powerful trucks. So, depending on your setup, you may be able to tow more than you think.

Just be sure to stay well within the gvwr of truck and trailer, the gawrs of every axle, and maintain at least 10% tongue weight. Good luck.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think you will be glad that you got the slide in ramps. Fold up ramps cause a big drop in gas mileage when towing your trailer empty. I have no problem pulling out and placing my ramps even with my bad back, they aren't that heavy and when stowed, the lines are clean on the trailer. If you can find a dove tail on an 18 foot trailer, that would be better than a straight deck IMO unless your deck is already really low like DiamondPilot's @ 14". Most trailers aren't that low especially if they have 5200 or 6000# axles which usually carry 16" tires.
As for trailers rolling forward during loading, that is an issue, but easily overcome with chocks on the wheels to prevent forward movement. Some folks have even installed adjustable jack stands on the rear so they don't have to haul around a wheel chock. If not on a hill or incline when loading, it is a not issue because the trailer wont move anyway.
An alternative is to have someone hold the brakes on your truck, parking brake is ineffective as it seems to only hold the rear tires which sometimes ride up in the air if loading a heavy piece of equipment.
Be sure to follow your local DOT standards for tie down of your tractor. This usually means 4 attachment points needed plus separate tie down of FEL and backhoe if your tractor is so equipped. IIRC the strength of each tie must equal at least half of the load weight so size your chains accordingly.

 

[Oliver1655]

Agree, standing ramps decrease fuel mileage.

If your primary need is to haul the tractor, the dove tail is real handy.

Blocks to place under the rear corners of the trailer during loading will help stabilize the trailer during loading which will make it safer to load & decrease the risk of damage to your towing vehicle & teh coupler on the trailer.

Another consideration is the weight of the trailer it's self. If both will meet you needs, the lower weight trailer will allow you to haul a larger load.

 

[94BULLITT]

Personally I would go with the flat deck and slide in ramps. Many reasons but stand up ramps limit you to 16', no overhang, prevent rear fork lift loading, ect. Flat deck low trailers are the most versatile in my eyes. Easy to load, ect.

Chris

I agree.

Like Oliver1655 said, You will need to put blocks under the back of a trailer with slide in ramps when loading it to keep from picking up the tow vehicle. Equipment trailers have legs on the ramps to prevent this from happening.

 

[grnspot110]

I prefer hinged loading legs over blocks, shown here in the up (storage) position:



When down, on level ground (no load) they are a couple inches off the ground. When the weight is on them, simply back up a few inches to release them. When loaded, drop them down & pull forward onto the legs. ~~ Lowell

 

[newbury]

Neighborhood storage requirements dictate the trailer must be garaged and a 16' trailer plus tongue is all that will fit in the garage.

I've decided to go 18' and slide-out ramps I think. I'll settle upon a 7,000 - 8,000 lb. model.

Well if your moving up to 18' what happened to the garage? Did it grow?

Definitely get something to go under the ramps.

 

[RoMad]

I switched from a flatbed to a dovetail car hauler and I like it. It tows great and is very easy to load I have a small dirt bank I back up to and load my tractor without the ramps. I put the bucket on the trailer and lift the front tires as I drive on . The back tires easily climb onto the trailer. One thing to watch for with a car hauler is to make sure your tractor is wide enough to fit on the runners of the trailer. I had to add boards to my trailer so my tractor would fit .