Can't shuttle with PTO engaged?

[DiskDoctr]

When I try to use shuttle to forward and PTO is engaged and high rpm (finish mower, tight turns and backing up), she won't engage, just grinds.

Since I have 2004 3510 Geared Mahindra, I have a single stage clutch and separate PTO clutch, right? Maybe the PTO clutch is sticking?

PTO engages normally with the selector switch + column button as normal. Also turns off.

Reverse seems okay, but forwards just fast grinding :shocked:

Can't seem to find ANYTHING as far as docs or info on my 3510? Help?

Thanks.

 

[Navasot]

adjust the clutch.. it will do it with the 1-4 and shuttle also

 

[skipmarcy]

I agree, adjust your clutch. The clutch for the PTO is a hydraulic pack that has nothing to do directly with the single stage main clutch for the trans. The input shaft on the PTO clutch pack is run off of a gear on the trans input shaft in the front transmission. It is engaged hydraulically via the solenoid mounted to the outside of the trans case on the right side. Your shift cable adjustment won't make it "grind" in itself, the clutch is not releasing all the way and making it grind trying to go into gear.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Missed this reply, sorry guys!

Here is the thread with pics. Found a crappy weld on the piece (crows foot) to shaft that moves the shuttle fork.

The Manufacturer thought it was okay to weld a flat piece directly onto a shaft without any key or other fitment. It was only a matter of time before the shaft rolled in the part.

The weld is a cold weld on the surface only. Once I ground off the bubble gum weld, there was ZERO burn in or weld in the round hole

Something to watch for, obvious quality/manufacturing defect.

 

[Navasot]

Not surprising with the the older 10 series. Glad you got her figured out

 

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks

We cleaned it all up, shimmed the internal fork in place for welding, pulled the shaft out a little so it would result in a little spacing, and then submerged the outside piece, shaft, seal, housing in water sitting on a piece of wood to protect the seal from overheating.

So far it looks good. I reassembled it with grey RTV gasket maker. It is just too hard to get any parts from Mahindra dealers

I'll be reattaching the linkage and filling up the hydraulic reservoir and trying it out later this afternoon.

I will be reusing the hydraulic filter. The fluid looked like new and...it's really hard to get any parts from Mahindra dealers

I'll report back with the final results

 

[dickfoster]

Missed this reply, sorry guys!

Here is the thread with pics. Found a crappy weld on the piece (crows foot) to shaft that moves the shuttle fork.

The Manufacturer thought it was okay to weld a flat piece directly onto a shaft without any key or other fitment. It was only a matter of time before the shaft rolled in the part.

The weld is a cold weld on the surface only. Once I ground off the bubble gum weld, there was ZERO burn in or weld in the round hole

Something to watch for, obvious quality/manufacturing defect.

Out here in the four wheeler world, that's called a bugger weld.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Out here in the four wheeler world, that's called a bugger weld.

Yeah, it was a "bugger" alright! LOL.

Good news to report and a little lesson/info to share.

She is shifting securely and firmly, just as well or better than in a long time!

I had also disassembled the shifting fork and detent spring and ball looking for any flat spots. Boy is that HARD to move manually with your fingers! I did notice a little wear on the edge of the shaft, so I flipped it over so the non-worn section would contact the detent ball instead. Not sure it made a difference, but just being extra vigilant.

When I reassembled the linkage, the shuttle lever was far to the rear, in the way of my knee. I used the bottom adjustment to get the trans shift lever where I wanted it and then adjusted the top, too.

Here's something I learned and want to share:

The trans lever ha 3 positions, Forward, Neutral, Reverse. Well, the lever's range of motion is NOT evenly dispersed. When the lever is tilted forward, it is just about 11 o'clock. 12 o'clock is neutral. 1 o'clock to about 2:30 is the rear position. This allows you to control your top shuttle lever position.

How, you ask? Well, as the trans lever moves farther from being in a straight line with the shift cable, it takes more cable to move it. More cable means more travel for the top shuttle lever, allowing me to adjust it farther forward- away from my knee.

Then just adjust the cable so each detent position is securely engaged.

I think I'll weld stops back on the top shuttle lever travel area in the column. I ground them down and the rear completely off trying to get the shuttle clutch to shift properly.

Another tip: The machined alignment holes and pins must be COMPLETELY CLEAN to reassemble. Tapping over the machined areas lightly with a wooden hammer handle to make sure it goes in STRAIGHT and the fork is properly engaged with it's slot over the ring helps

Don't forget to check your suction filter inside the bottom of the transmission area while you have it drained