Kyle87
Member
I had the rod end of a swing cylinder on my farmpro backhoe snap unfortunately. Are there any suggested methods to repairing it or am I stuck replacing ? Thank you
Can this cylinder rod be welded ?
- Thread starter Kyle87
- Start date
- Views: 6078
wdchyd
Elite Member
Two issues with with welding it back on. If it’s cast iron it is a no go, and if the wiper ring is right up tight to the end then there will be no clearance for a weld.
Replacing or making a new rod would be the best choice for a repair. A capable hyd shop can make it easy.
Replacing or making a new rod would be the best choice for a repair. A capable hyd shop can make it easy.
K5lwq
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2017
- Messages
- 4,818
- Location
- Mineola, TX
- Tractor
- Kioti LK2554, Branson 4815C, Satoh Beaver, Speedex
It can be welded but most likely will not hold. If you have a welder and want to try no harm. I would grind as much of a V as I could and build it back out with multiple passes.
Replacement is certainly better and will limit your down time in the long run. :thumbsup:
Replacement is certainly better and will limit your down time in the long run. :thumbsup:
Industrial Toys
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 16,742
- Location
- Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota R510 Wheel Loader + Cab and backhoe, JD 6200 Open Station, Cushman 6150, 4x4, ten foot 56 hp Kubota diesel hydraulic wing mower, Steiner 430 Diesel Max, Kawasaki Diesel Mule, JD 4x2 Electric Gator
If there is room for welding and you replace the clevis with steel (if it was cast) , I see no issue at all welding it. Good welds and penetration using a real welder. Many rods and rod ends are just that.
TractorGuy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4,591
- Location
- N. FL
- Tractor
- John Deere 4310 CUT, Ford New Holland 575E Industrial Backhoe, John Deere F725 Front Mount Mower
I would grind it and weld it back on. You should be careful not to bottom the rod on that side when you swing in that direction.
For a backup I would measure everything and look for generic cylinders to replace them with if you can find them. Not sure if they match a standard design or if they are too proprietary to match.
For a backup I would measure everything and look for generic cylinders to replace them with if you can find them. Not sure if they match a standard design or if they are too proprietary to match.
ptsg
Super Member
My take on this, would be to take the broke threaded piece inside the rod ball end.
Then chuck the cylinder rod on the lathe, face off to clean the broken remaining. Then drill and tap for the same size thread it had and use a piece of all thread, or cut the head of a bolt off or machine a short threaded stub. Finally, would simply thread the ball end to the rod, probably with some sort of thread locker. Hopefully I explained this clearly.
But I do have a lathe though. It's not technically necessary for this repair but does make things easier.
Then chuck the cylinder rod on the lathe, face off to clean the broken remaining. Then drill and tap for the same size thread it had and use a piece of all thread, or cut the head of a bolt off or machine a short threaded stub. Finally, would simply thread the ball end to the rod, probably with some sort of thread locker. Hopefully I explained this clearly.
But I do have a lathe though. It's not technically necessary for this repair but does make things easier.
TractorGuy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4,591
- Location
- N. FL
- Tractor
- John Deere 4310 CUT, Ford New Holland 575E Industrial Backhoe, John Deere F725 Front Mount Mower
Might want to call one of the parts suppliers and see if they can source new rods and kits for them.