Can/Should/How Would I Weld Grader Blade Arm? (Pics)

aschwerin · Apr 15, 2016

Is this worth fixing? I got it recently and it lasted about 30 minutes of use. Looks like a lot of force is exerted in this area. The new weld was my amateur attempt, and lasted about 2 minutes.

I can bring it to a professional, I think its beyond my scope...

ThomasH · Apr 15, 2016

I don't know if it is worth repairing or not - that is a judgement call on your part on the value of it and what it would cost to replace it. But if I were doing a repair, it would include replacing the pivot pipe with some thick wall pipe, and putting gussets on the arms that attach to it, in order to make the pivot strong, and spread the force out to a larger connection between the pipe and the arms. The gussets would be some triangular shaped steel, the same thickness of the arms, which were much wider on the connection to the pipe, and triangulated the load on the arms.

Hope that helps.

Billrog · Apr 15, 2016

I'd say grind it out straighten it up and reweld it practice makes perfected. I had lots of those welds at one time you may have to add a little re-enforcing. No sense having a welder and not making use of it. Lot a fellas here that actually know what their doing can give you good advice.

Shield Arc · Apr 15, 2016

I would grind it all down to clean metal. Stand it up so you're welding in the flat position. Take a piece of flat bar weld it to the flat section, heat the flat bar and wrap it around the pipe, and weld to the opposite flat section.

teg · Apr 15, 2016

I my opinion, this is the greatest time to learn to repair / weld it correctly. I bought a $50 6' blade, guess what, it broke the same spot. IF I can find the old photos I'll post it but it was a great learning experience to grin off the old and weld the new patch on it... Go for it.

ovrszd · Apr 15, 2016

Shield Arc said:
I would grind it all down to clean metal. Stand it up so you're welding in the flat position. Take a piece of flat bar weld it to the flat section, heat the flat bar and wrap it around the pipe, and weld to the opposite flat section.

X2.....

Jim Timber · Apr 15, 2016

Broken farm equipment is the cheapest kind.

SA's suggestion of a strap reinforcement band is a good one. I'd agree to grind down to clean metal and re-fit the pieces before rewelding it. I'd also figure out some way to gusset the end. Maybe a top and bottom strap? That's a lot of twisting for a fillet weld in shear.

teg · Apr 15, 2016

Only a very small spot was welded. The rest of it wasn't attached.

View attachment 464866

Mark @ Everlast · Apr 16, 2016

aschwerin said:
Is this worth fixing? I got it recently and it lasted about 30 minutes of use. Looks like a lot of force is exerted in this area. The new weld was my amateur attempt, and lasted about 2 minutes.

I can bring it to a professional, I think its beyond my scope...

View attachment 464817 View attachment 464818

I've made that repair on several old scrape blades. Get it back in line, grind it down, and stick weld it up vertical. Get another piece of flat metal, and bend it all the way around the back (wrap it) so that it meets the other side. Then weld it back to the bracket. Grind out the weld and slightly taper back the bracket.

aschwerin · Apr 16, 2016

Mark @ Everlast said:
I've made that repair on several old scrape blades. Get it back in line, grind it down, and stick weld it up vertical. Get another piece of flat metal, and bend it all the way around the back (wrap it) so that it meets the other side. Then weld it back to the bracket. Grind out the weld and slightly taper back the bracket.

Thanks for all the replies.

ThomasH, it cost me $100 at auction and a new cheap one is $350. I rarely use it. In fact, I only got it because my neighbor wanted me to have one. A big advantage of putting a new pivot pipe on is that the last guy to weld it didn't get the holes in the right places, so it only properly scrapes in one position (on one side of the driveway).

There seems to be a common theme in the method of welding, with the option of reinforcing arms which makes sense with the design.

Mark, I don't quite understand the "slightly taper back the bracket" part.

I'm a very beginner welder...so this is a good practice piece....what rod size would y'all recommend? (AC/DC stick welder)

Andrew