Can I usee copper pipe for exhaust pipe?

[dickfoster]

Part of my thinking is that I can do the tricky bendy stuff in copper (I can solder but not braze) and stake the joints with a self tapping screw. After the bendy parts a 3" stack held in place with standoffs (they are hangers if it was horizontal).
I don't care how loud it is, I'm half deaf anyway and I live in the country and never start to do anything other than drink coffee before 10 A.M. IF I find it is too loud, I have a muffler that was destined for my Farmall but missed the sale.
The whole purpose of this is (a) to make the engine breath better and (b) to get rid of the grass burner exhaust.

(a) 4 stroke engine strokes= suck, squeeze, pop, fooey. injection, compression, ignition, exhaust. Stuff a potato in your exhaust pipe and see how far you get. Not far. I have always run on the premise that in order to get anywhere with an internal combustion engine you MUST get the exhaust (fooey) out!

(b) the grass burner exhaust turns the snow blower black (normally it is orange), turns my loader arms black and tries to plug up when I am pushing snow banks.

The solder will melt if it's close to the engine. I think you should give up on the copper idea and stick materials that are known to work. You can get exhaust tubing in all sorts of sizes bends etc. from auto suppliers like Summit, Jegs etc.

 

[pat32rf]

In high school I had a little French car. Dad made a copper exhaust from the tailpipe back, including the muffler. Lasted for years but he brazed the joints instead of soft solder.
Once the pipe gets a few feet from the engine it cools quickly.

 

[milkie62]

My buddy has a length of copper off his tractor.It was a scrap piece that he had. Seems to hold up with no issues.

 

[civilian]

.....(b) the grass burner exhaust turns the snow blower black (normally it is orange), turns my loader arms black and tries to plug up when I am pushing snow banks.

Realize this is an older post, did you try the copper pipe?

I agree with this statement. I have the same problem with my BX2230. I need to look for something to deflect the exhaust just a small amount, but not direct it at something worse (plastic hood/shroud). Jon

 

[Looking4new]

Realize this is an older post, did you try the copper pipe?

I agree with this statement. I have the same problem with my BX2230. I need to look for something to deflect the exhaust just a small amount, but not direct it at something worse (plastic hood/shroud). Jon

This will be a fall project. I am going to run the exhaust out from the manifold and up to the roof line of my cab and put a slashed 45 or a rain trap rattle flapper on it.

 

[PILOON]

Brass is better makes a nice sound as it resonates plus you can solder, but use lead free as it is better for your health.
Also it won't rust.

 

[Looking4new]

I was thinking of using brazing rod for the solder. And running whatever the diameter it is off the manifold and around the bendy bits then widening out to 2"+/-. I have a brand almost new muffler left over from my Farmall C that I might put on it IF the exhaust note is too loud.

 

[Looking4new]

I used steel all the way and it sounds good. Loud, but good.

 

[Sberry]

I think you should buy some real tools.

 

[Looking4new]

IF I had a welder and could in fact weld (I got a migraine headache when I tried welding) this thread would never have been started. After the CV panic/restrictions is done with I will get the plumbing welded. I may also increase the stack size to 4".

 

[Sberry]

There is a proper size for exhaust. .

 

[Looking4new]

As long as the stack doesn't interfere with the loader arms it is sized properly. imho

 

[k0ua]

IF I had a welder and could in fact weld (I got a migraine headache when I tried welding) this thread would never have been started. After the CV panic/restrictions is done with I will get the plumbing welded. I may also increase the stack size to 4".

Don't stick your head in the welding plume.

 

[Sberry]

It's too late.