Can I plow a garden with only a tiller attachment on new, never plowed, rough ground?

[Learning2Tractor]

I wonder if Learning knows how really big an acre is. That's one Hell of a big garden.

Yes. It is. That's why I want a machine. It's not like raised beds I'm used to. I taking it up a notch.

Edit:. I have about 45 raised beds, different sizes and depth, lots cubic feet of dirt. I'm tired of building them. I want to plow what I have. This doesn't replace those. The in ground is the new edition.

 

[California]

IF you can plow it, I can rotavate it, that's all I claim...

I showed the pict. above, to show the size of the tractor that I've used to reclaim old sod fields ...

What's the PTO hp on that little Kubota?

My 20 PTO hp Yanmar runs its matched 54" Yanmar-Japan OEM tiller fine. The same tiller mounted on the little 15 PTO hp Yanmar is ok most of the time but I can stall it occasionally. (See sig photo below).

 

[marhar]

I saw some people with a dic and plow and a tiller attachment, and I saw some with only the rototiller attachment. Some had been plowed before, others not.

Can I use only a rototiller attachment for a 1 acre never before plowed ground that probably has some roots and lots of rocks, but nice dirt?

Depends: If it is field you have kept up and has very limited rocks and roots you may be able to use a tiller only when the ground is wet and soft. Years ago I worked on a tree farm; the owner would take a roto tiller and till long rows so it was easier to plant the trees (not seedling but trees that were grown in a 2 or 3 gallon pot until we planted).

 

[Sawyer Rob]

What's the PTO hp on that little Kubota?

My 20 PTO hp Yanmar runs its matched 54" Yanmar-Japan OEM tiller fine. The same tiller mounted on the little 15 PTO hp Yanmar is ok most of the time but I can stall it occasionally. (See sig photo below).

12.5 PTO HP, 42" Howard, it's slow in sod, but it gets the job done.

When I do custom tilling, I take whatever comes along, and if I get there and they want to expand their garden out into an old field, I expand the garden!

SR

 

[rodneyn]

I saw some people with a dic and plow and a tiller attachment, and I saw some with only the rototiller attachment. Some had been plowed before, others not.

Can I use only a rototiller attachment for a 1 acre never before plowed ground that probably has some roots and lots of rocks, but nice dirt?

If using rototiller only on new ground you will need to make a lot of passes at light depth letting tines Chop up top soil. Did many yards with 5 foot rototiller and Kioti LK3054 takes time to break hard soil. Hydrostatic use slowest speed same for gear find slowest. Tillers do not like rocks or hard clay they will bounce a lot and play heck with 3pt hitch. Might wait until rain this will aid the tiller. Just don’t go out if it rained over 3/4 in. You be playing in the mud, normal tiller does not like mud. Now I had old kubota tiller prior it came from Japan “grey market “ and it was set up for rice patty tilling it would float in the mud. That was when I owned L175 kubota with rice tires. It was tough little machine no frills whatsoever no live PTO either. You had to ride the brakes to overcome momentum from the PTO when pushing clutch in. Back then you needed brakes on a tractor they were important.

 

[Egon]

In the past my B7100 hst with a 40 inch tiller was used on a few acres of Nova Scotia drumlin sod. Lots of small rocks and some much bigger. Heavy clay type soil.

12.5 PTO HP, 42" Howard, it's slow in sod, but it gets the job done.

When I do custom tilling, I take whatever comes along, and if I get there and they want to expand their garden out into an old field, I expand the garden!

SR

 

[Learning2Tractor]

Depends: If it is field you have kept up and has very limited rocks and roots you may be able to use a tiller only when the ground is wet and soft. Years ago I worked on a tree farm; the owner would take a roto tiller and till long rows so it was easier to plant the trees (not seedling but trees that were grown in a 2 or 3 gallon pot until we planted).

It had trees, probably for 100+ years. Cleared. Stumps but not too many, just a few from big trees. I have seen some big rocks, but it's not like a quarry.

I think the essence of the advice so far is to hire out the first ripping of the soil. That will require a larger tractor than what you need subsequently.

A front loader is extremely valuable. So - if I were you - I would get a small tractor with loader, and rotary mower. Mow everything down. Then hire a one-time pass with a turning plow or at least a deep ripper to bring up roots and rocks. Now your ground is ready to cultivate as you wish, using your small tractor.

I think this may be the best advice, but how come something like a BCS walk behind with a bottom plow can dig out ground but a compact tractor can't? That's what keeps throwing me off.

Like in this old video. Is it because this ground is in much better condition, no rocks and roots?

 

[California]

That operator is literally wrestling with the BCS and on rough ground where the footing is treacherous. And taking only a 6 inch wide cut for each pass across the field. Tiring! While Sawyer Rob and I sit serenely on a comfortable seat, only one hand needed to steer, and cover far more width with each pass. I'm sure either of our little tractors could pull a comparable single-bottom plow.

I'm old, I suspect with a moment's inattention that BCS could veer off course and need more force than I could apply (on slippery ground!), to get back to a straight line. i recall when I was young and scrawny I didn't have the weight to rassle a tiller without wheels, just the cutters, and it tossed me around pretty good.

Others can comment whether you need to go as deep as that BCS turning plow but I don't see any need - after your field has been broken loose once by something larger.

A BCS is great for small-scale growing but if you have an acre to maintain, then a small tractor with loader, mower and tiller or disc, will be pleasanter to use. And more versatile. For one example scoop and carry in mulch etc in the loader bucket instead of hand-shoveling it into a trailer then hand-shoveling it out at the destination.

I don't know much about garden tractors but that might be what you need here if you feel you don't need a subcompact real tractor. Just be sure to get one with loader and available implements.


And a comment seen here occasionally - Its fun to spend other people's money!

 

[toolslinger]

how come something like a BCS walk behind with a bottom plow can dig out ground but a compact tractor can't?

The reality is, yes, you could open your field with a BCS or other heavy walk behind. It will take an awful long time, and you will be beat up, and the machine may well take a beating, but it could be done.

You could also spend the money to get the right tractor/tiller combo, and go after it that way. It can be done, but you need the right combination of parts. If you're in a rocky area, despite people saying it's fine, a tiller, and rocks isn't an ideal situation.

You can also spend the money, and go old school via plow, disc, and harrow to open it up. Not quite as nice as a finished bed compared to a tiller, but it's pretty darn bulletproof and simple.

Since you're starting at zero, you're looking at a steep buy-in to whatever way you go. Obviously you're going to need equipment, but it might be you do better hiring out the initial work. You could get the whole thing done to a seed bed the first year, and then work it in sections with a used walk behind as you rotate through different plantings. Give yourself a little time to actually figure out what you need, rather than just what might get recommended. Better yet if you've got some friendly neighbors that know more about your specific local conditions, where you might be able to see how they do it, and go from there.

There's no one right answer. You can throw a ton of labor at a problem, or you can throw money/technology at it. There's an investment to be made either way, and a cost to you, your wallet, and your equipment.

 

[Torvy]

If you hire out or rent the plowing and initial prep, you can just use the tiller from then on. As mentioned upstream, a small plow can be found relatively cheap. I don't like to hire out work either, but it is probably best in this case.

 

[Username Taken]

I was in the same situation this past Spring. A grizzled old Farmer friend told me I couldn't do it. So I did it.

I used my Box Blade with the tines fully extended to break up the sod; then went over it with my Wicked 55, points down, lid open, in order to pick up all the weeds, roots, stones, etc at the end of each pass. Several times. Both tools -- Several times.

THEN, you can till it up.

It's not the best way but sometimes you gotta work with what you have. You can go out and spend thousands on equipment you'll use one time then either let it sit or sell it at a big loss. Or you can use what you got.

I didn't know I could do it until I tried. We got a bunch of really good sweet corn out of that plot.

I used what I had. To me, a Box Blade and a Grapple are essential attachments that everybody should have.

 

[m1garand762]

I don't know about a cheapo tiller, but you'd be amazed how many times I've done it for myself and for customers, with my Howard Rotavator (tiller).

Here's one I reclaimed, and here's after the first pass,

I let it set several days, then made a second pass, here's what it looked like after the second pass,

Lots and lots of truck farmers here, have hired me to put old ground back into veggie plots, roots, rocks and all. Done "right" it works perfectly!

IF, You have a quality tiller and don't know how to use it properly, don't blame the tiller!

SR

The Howard my dad has would eat a parking lot and not know it was in pavement. Those are great machines