Can I build a field cultivator for a BCS?

[Freep]

Greetings, All,

I recently procured a 65-year-old, 9-tined, 7' field cultivator, nearly identical to the one pictured here. My 4WD tractor cannot pull a 9-tined cultivator where I need to use it; I purchased it with the intent of removing 3-4 tines. It occurs to me, however, that with a bit of hardware and two pieces of angle iron, I can essentially build a 30" (ish) 3-tined cultivator to use with my BCS.

My primary purpose for the cultivator is to destroy the homes of moles that have constructed burrows on portions of my property. (Though I am of course finding new necessary jobs to apply it to now that I have it.) Some of the areas I would like to use it are not places that I feel it wise to take a heavy tractor (close to trees, drain fields, etc). So the idea of making a little one to use in these more delicate areas is appealing.

Would it work? Does a BCS 852 have the oomph to pull 2-3 tines through the earth? Given the cultivators for sale on Earthtools.com it seems like it must. I imagine much would come down to how deeply the tines engage the ground, which brings up my second question: How to attach this contraption to the BCS? Should it be done essentially like a tiller is attached, and the angle controlled by the operator? Or is there some other way to affix it that permits it to articulate better (gauge wheels, etc)?

What do you think?

 

[jeff9366]

My primary purpose for the cultivator is to destroy the homes of moles that have constructed burrows on portions of my property.

Would it work? Does a BCS 852 have the oomph to pull 2-3 tines through the earth?

Given the cultivators for sale on Earthtools.com it seems like it must. I imagine much would come down to how deeply the tines engage the ground, which brings up my second question: How to attach this contraption to the BCS?

I have NO experience with 2-wheel tractors.

What is the width of the cultivator shanks on the Earthtools relative to your Ferguson? Do both have points, or does one have shovels?

Difficult for me to believe a relatively light, two-wheel tractor would have sufficient traction for pulling tines through earth. Prime mover weight and 2-WD vs 4-WD are the considerations.

IT MAY WORK.

 

[Freep]

Earthtools sells the Italian brand Aldo Biagioli as well as their own house-made tools. Their selection looks good and is reasonably priced. If it were a primary purpose I would probably just buy from them, but I am trying to find some use for the extra tines on my Ferguson cultivator. Note that their tools all seem intended to operate at a shallow depth relative to full-sized cultivators, with wheels being used to set depth and to moderate resistance as appropriate for available traction.

Thinking about it overnight, it seems I'll need gauge wheels for the same purpose to use more than a single tine. I could moderate depth using leverage on the handlebars, but that sounds exhausting. For the moment, depth of penetration is most important, so it may be wise to use a single tine as a subsoiler in my mole offensive. (There are only a handful of places I cannot take my full-sized tractor.) I can add up to 200 lbs of wheel weight to aid traction. If I can find a way to attach it to the BCS tractor I can use it when the ground starts to dry up. If it works to any significant degree I can try to find a way to attach gauge wheels and use it at shallow depths in future should the need arise.

Jeff: The April showers have arrived in the PNW, so it will be a while before I can use any of these cultivation devices in the ground. You provided the initial idea of disrupting mole burrows as a way of encouraging them to move elsewhere. What do you think about using a broadfork for the same purpose? It may be less work overall than constructing the device proposed above.

 

[jeff9366]

I am 71 years old.

The Broadfork would require too much physical effort for me, especially as disruption of tunnels will require coverage several times over a couple months.



The Biagoli subsoiler description says it penetrates to 11".
I could not find a height dimension for the cultivator shanks but they appear fairly short.


I have NO experience with 2-wheel tractors.


I would work with the Ferguson F/C for awhile, which I am confident will be successful for you, then let your Ferguson experience guide. The burrowers may vacate your entire property.

What is the width of the cultivator shanks on the Ferguson? Does the Ferguson have points, or shovels?

 

[Freep]

Judging by the photos in this thread, they are either reversible point shovels or grassland tooth shovels. The shanks themselves are quite thin - no more than an inch, I think. I intend to clean up the cultivator, space out tines at 12" apart (probably 5), and try to criss-cross mole infested areas that I can get to with the tractor. I'm just collecting ideas for the other areas here for the moment.

I am no spring chicken, but you do have a few years on me. I like to use my various chores as opportunities for physical exercise (my professional work involves near-constant sitting), yet it does sound pretty arduous. I need to get one of those broadforks for aerating soil around a few trees without destroying roots anyhow, so I was thinking maybe it would pull double-duty as a mole discourager. I live fairly close to where they are made and am going to make a day of going out to Vashon to buy one.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

If you have a real mole infestation your solution may be a drill in futility. They will love you for making their job easier. An outfit in Idaho makes a tool for the job. They sell a lot of them to farmers. Varmitgetter Home page

I have a used one I will sell for way under the list price of $1400. The manufacturer's tech guy is very helpful in helping get started with it. I have never used it myself but previous owner sold it after getting rid of his moles and selling the property. Send a personal if interested. I have the attached Operators Manual and all the parts except regulators.

Ron

 

[jeff9366]

Judging by the photos in this thread, they are either reversible point shovels or grassland tooth shovels. The shanks themselves are quite thin - no more than an inch, I think.

I intend to clean up the cultivator, space out tines at 12" apart (probably 5), and try to criss-cross mole infested areas that I can get to with the tractor.

Shanks on the Dirt Dog F/C and Fred Can F/C are 1/2" thick. So you may only be able to pull four Ferguson tines, rather than five.