Can dry liners leak antifreeze into cylinder

[AlanWim]

I've got a Kioti LB1914 3 cylinder deisel. The center cylinder has antifreeze getting into it and I mean a lot of it, like about 4 tablespoons setting on top of the piston. When I pulled the valve cover there was some antifreeze mixed with the oil in the top of the cover. There is no antifreeze in the oil pan. The middle cylinder would not fire, but was pushing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and I was losing antifreeze from the radiator with nothing on the ground. I put a new head gasket on it, fired it up and the same problem. Took it apart and went over the head with a fine tooth comb, light, magnifying glass, etc. Pulled valves and everything off the head. Can't find anything that even remotely looks like a crack. Pulled the piston and the liner looks like it may have a small lenghth wise crack and I think I can feel it with my finger nail, but not sure. I ordered a new liner, thinking it would be a wet liner, but it is a dry liner. Now I'm confused. I'm wondering if water can inter a dry liner and the preasure from the compression stroke would push antifreeze up through the valve seals into the top of the head and under the valve cover? There is not a lot of antifreeze under the valve cover, just enough to turn the underside of the cover a little milky and fresh antifreeze sitting around the valves area. I need help and advice, Please.

 

[Snobdds]

I would start with putting a pressure tester and checking each cylinder, if you haven't taken the head off again yet. It will tell you if it's in the head or the block, if it holds the correct pressure then it will be in the block. If it doesn't hold pressure, then it's in the head...injector cups, cracks, etc. Cracks are hard to find in a head. Having the thing magnafluxed is about the only way to truly find them all.

 

[AlanWim]

I would start with putting a pressure tester and checking each cylinder, if you haven't taken the head off again yet. It will tell you if it's in the head or the block, if it holds the correct pressure then it will be in the block. If it doesn't hold pressure, then it's in the head...injector cups, cracks, etc. Cracks are hard to find in a head. Having the thing magnafluxed is about the only way to truly find them all.

Thanks, but I've already got the thing tore apart again, but I do appreciate the advice on magnafluxing the head. I made an appointment for in the morning to have the head magnafluxed. I have rebuilt several motors in my 64 years, but just never ran on this kind of a problem. Usually I can find a crack by visual inspection, but not this time.

 

[sd455dan]

Thanks, but I've already got the thing tore apart again, but I do appreciate the advice on magnafluxing the head. I made an appointment for in the morning to have the head magnafluxed. I have rebuilt several motors in my 64 years, but just never ran on this kind of a problem. Usually I can find a crack by visual inspection, but not this time.

I don't know about Kiotis

but took a liner out of my 203 Rhino engine which is a (dry) liner diesel.

there is literally no path for antifreeze to enter- the liner is completely surrounded by metal and the bottom of the liner just sits on a machined circular ledge in the parent material of the engine block.

Can't imagine the block cracked and that forced a break in the same place on the liner.

I would look VERY carefully at the head, - especially the intake port and it is good you are having the head magnifluxed

odd that antifreeze made it (somehow) to the top of the head under the valve cover.?.?


Good Luck- and will be watching with interest.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

I did have it on a QC495 engine that have dry sleeves that slide in . When I stripped it I found that the block had a fault in it between 3 and 4 sil

 

[AlanWim]

I'll for sure post what we find tomorrow. Thanks for the advice and help.

 

[AlanWim]

Mystery solved. Magnafluxing found the crack starting from inside the injector hole over the face, through the valve face and into the valve hole. I can't believe I couldn't see that bad a crack with a magnafying glass. Now onto the search for a different head. Anyone have any suggestions on salvage yards for Kioti tractors?

 

[AlanWim]

Found a new head with valves installed in Hong Kong for $513 including shipping. Should be here next week. Figured, heck it's a Korean tractor and was probably made in China so should be the same quality as the original one. Sure is a lot of money for just a head though.

 

[Texasmark]

I've got a Kioti LB1914 3 cylinder deisel. The center cylinder has antifreeze getting into it and I mean a lot of it, like about 4 tablespoons setting on top of the piston. When I pulled the valve cover there was some antifreeze mixed with the oil in the top of the cover. There is no antifreeze in the oil pan. The middle cylinder would not fire, but was pushing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and I was losing antifreeze from the radiator with nothing on the ground. I put a new head gasket on it, fired it up and the same problem. Took it apart and went over the head with a fine tooth comb, light, magnifying glass, etc. Pulled valves and everything off the head. Can't find anything that even remotely looks like a crack. Pulled the piston and the liner looks like it may have a small lenghth wise crack and I think I can feel it with my finger nail, but not sure. I ordered a new liner, thinking it would be a wet liner, but it is a dry liner. Now I'm confused. I'm wondering if water can inter a dry liner and the preasure from the compression stroke would push antifreeze up through the valve seals into the top of the head and under the valve cover? There is not a lot of antifreeze under the valve cover, just enough to turn the underside of the cover a little milky and fresh antifreeze sitting around the valves area. I need help and advice, Please.

Diesel engines use either an ion filter or some chemical treatment to prevent ion bubbles at the surface of the sleeve from etching through the wall of the sleeve over time...and over time means like OTR trucks run a million miles. There is published data on the www as to how this mechanism works.

If you have a subject engine you can have radiator coolant under pressure enter the cylinder when cylinder pressures are less than the water pressure. JD doesn't sell it any longer but I have a bottle of JD radiator fluid treatment for their sleeved tractors....I had a wet sleeved JD 4020 years ago. My Cummins OTR diesel had an ion cartridge filter in a radiator fluid bypass line that was changed on a regular basis.

Other problems could be cracked head, usually associated with the exhaust valve to cylinder on flatheads, especially V8s or leaking head gasket.