Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[Leejohn]

You should get an indication simultaneous with the "click". ... IF that click is the solenoid. Sometimes a worn solenoid will click, but the internal contacts wont make connection. In that case the lights would be steady. When the solenoid does make contact the starter is powered and there is a big drain and lights would dim even with a strong batt. KubotainNH post#4 trouble shooting would apply.
,,,, From your description I think it is the solenoid contacts giving trouble. Usually this is intermittent and worsens slowly. The contacts are closing but dirty/pitted and dont make a good contact. The next time they close they may make contact. When a solenoid goes this way -just at the verge of malfunction -, even just charging the batt will suddenly "fix" the problem. Temporarily. ... Try it. Try repeated clicks. Before going to a new batt or solenoid.
larry

That's what I think also, that would be the 1st place I would check.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Wow!! You guys are great!

OK...to ease some of your concerns:

I am strong enough to take out/reinstall the battery since I have 3 horses and move bales of hay, etc. No close neighbors or friends because I prefer peace & quiet

Yep, I've got a couple of the battery post cleaning tools. The terminals were very corroded, so I used baking soda to fizz away all the gunk and then wire brushed both the posts and ther cables. Also removed & cleaned the ground connection at the frame.

I tested the posts after cleaning and installing and got a reading of 12.5, but I did not test across just the terminals. I will do that shortly when I put the charger on.

The batteries in the truck...'93 GMC 6.5L Turbo Diesel 3/4 ton....are heavy and awkward to remove, so using one is not an option.

I am in the country (my road is off Route 66) and the nearest auto parts store is 35-40 miles away. If the battery won't charge, I plan on taking it with me to get a replacement. Question...does it have to be the exact size (measurements) or just a 12V with minimum 630CCA? Can I go with a bit smaller size?

What settings do I put the multimeter on to check the solenoid or starter? Where do I touch the red and black probes?

Thanks again for all of the support :thumbsup:

btw....sometimes 64 IS old when the body won't keep up with the brain

 

[Old Gray Mare]

You should get an indication simultaneous with the "click". ... IF that click is the solenoid. Sometimes a worn solenoid will click, but the internal contacts wont make connection. In that case the lights would be steady. When the solenoid does make contact the starter is powered and there is a big drain and lights would dim even with a strong batt. KubotainNH post#4 trouble shooting would apply.
,,,, From your description I think it is the solenoid contacts giving trouble. Usually this is intermittent and worsens slowly. The contacts are closing but dirty/pitted and dont make a good contact. The next time they close they may make contact. When a solenoid goes this way -just at the verge of malfunction -, even just charging the batt will suddenly "fix" the problem. Temporarily. ... Try it. Try repeated clicks. Before going to a new batt or solenoid.
larry

The sound when the key is put to "start" is like a click-clunk, not like a typical solenoid in a vehicle. It does it again after about a 4-5 second delay when the key is turned "off". Very strange and I've never heard it before from the tractor. Would that still be the solenoid?

I did tap the starter (easy to get to) with a wrench (don't worry...it wasn't very hard) to see if maybe it was stuck, but it didn't make a difference.

BTW...I grew up with 2 older brothers and was their "official" parts cleaner when they tore into their 1949 and 50 Fords. I was always getting greasy and could rebuild a carburetor alongside them

Thanks again!!!

 

[MoKelly]

Batteries have a size/type. My Bobcat battery was a 24. So, when I went to get a new battery, I just got a 24 with the same or better ratings. It fit just fine.

The one thing to make sure is that the battery is well anchored and doesn't move around or vibrate when using the tractor. That can cause problems fast.

MoKelly

 

[square1]

The sound when the key is put to "start" is like a click-clunk, not like a typical solenoid in a vehicle. It does it again after about a 4-5 second delay when the key is turned "off".

First Clunk could be Starter engaging the flywheel, 2nd clunk is it releasing when de-energized, but for what ever reason (weak battery, bad starter, bound up motor) she isn't turning over.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Batteries have a size/type. My Bobcat battery was a 24. So, when I went to get a new battery, I just got a 24 with the same or better ratings. It fit just fine.

The one thing to make sure is that the battery is well anchored and doesn't move around or vibrate when using the tractor. That can cause problems fast.

MoKelly

Interesting, since when I took off the front grill to acces the battery, the battery hold-down rod was not connected. I had just driven it about a mile on a VERY rutted/rocky road. Would this have caused problems like you say?

The Operators Manual does not say the size of battery, only a minimum of 630CCA. How do I get the rating, i.e. 24?

Thanks!!

 

[Old Gray Mare]

First Clunk could be Starter engaging the flywheel, 2nd clunk is it releasing when de-energized, but for what ever reason (weak battery, bad starter, bound up motor) she isn't turning over.

The clunk does sound like it's coming from the area of the starter, but since I am in the seat, it's hard to pinpoint.

 

[square1]

The clunk does sound like it's coming from the area of the starter, but since I am in the seat, it's hard to pinpoint.

Make sure the starter mounting bolts are all tightened properly. If the starter is kicking in on an even the slightest angle it could be binding. Also if the starter housing can turn even a fraction of an inch, it will make a clunk sound when it comes to a stop against the bolts.

 

[MoKelly]

Interesting, since when I took off the front grill to acces the battery, the battery hold-down rod was not connected. I had just driven it about a mile on a VERY rutted/rocky road. Would this have caused problems like you say?

The Operators Manual does not say the size of battery, only a minimum of 630CCA. How do I get the rating, i.e. 24?

Thanks!!

In my case, the size was printed on the battery. However, I think if you take the battery to the store they will be able to tell you the proper size. I went to Auto Zone and they were great --- tested the old battery and disposed of the old battery. Otherwise, maybe googling the battery information you can find on the old battery might help.

I don't know if your recent trip ruined the battery but you never want a battery bouncing around inside the vehicle. Tie it down.

MoKelly

 

[KubotainNH]

BTW...I grew up with 2 older brothers and was their "official" parts cleaner when they tore into their 1949 and 50 Fords. I was always getting greasy and could rebuild a carburetor alongside them

I like you, you don't mind getting your hands greasy. Can you post a picture of the starter where the wires come out of it? Quickest way to prove the battery is to clip your volt meter to the terminals and hit the key so you get the clunk. A bad battery or poor connections will show a voltage drop. If no drop then your heading towards the starter or stuck motor. As mentioned, if you have lights of any type they would dim if the battery is so weak it won't even try to spin the motor. As for battery size, as long as it will fit in the box, has enough amperage and has the +/- terminals in the same corners as the old battery then it should be fine.