Cab for the Montana

[chim]

It's been a while and our shop had some work for paying customers that put the cab fab on the back burner. We scrambled to get it close enough to done for that snow we had a few weeks ago. That was a good thing because our landscape guy couldn't handle the snow. Long story there, but this post is about the Montana cab. The lights, heater, glass etc. was wrapped up ahead of the storm. There are some minor items like weatherstripping (operator said it was plenty tight without it), cleaning up some silicone smears, and modifying a wiper arm. After a few Winters on the Montana without a cab, the operator couldn't have been happier.

The last picture is the new snow bucket that moship put me onto. Thanks! It will pick about twice the snow as the original bucket.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Very nice. How much would you charge to do another?

 

[sw99]

Nice work!

 

[chim]

It's what I prefer - steel and glass. On this one I didn't do any of the work, just told our welder what I wanted. He's a real craftsman and the fit and execution are really good. He has been out of the shop working on a jobsite for several weeks and hasn't seen it on the tractor after paint and glass were done.

The glass on this one was way more expensive than on my cab. The pieces are larger, but at close to $700 the glass was 3X of mine. Even with that, because of differences in the construction the overall material costs were still around the $1,200 I spent on mine 3 years ago.

 

[jrh009]

I know this post is 4 yrs old. I am trying to add a heater in my 2844 HST. I am going to use the block drain near the oil filter for one side of the loop, but can't find another good port. Was considering a tee at the temperature sensor. Is this correct? Need to stay inside the stat side of the engine.

Any suggestions would help.

 

[chim]

I'll have a look and try to get a picture or two.

 

[chim]

I know this post is 4 yrs old. I am trying to add a heater in my 2844 HST. I am going to use the block drain near the oil filter for one side of the loop, but can't find another good port. Was considering a tee at the temperature sensor. Is this correct? Need to stay inside the stat side of the engine.

Any suggestions would help.

The valves are in the heating position right now. Flow is needed either through the heater or the bypass connection. Here are pics:

 

[jrh009]

Thanks for the pictures, I am connected with a fitting in the bolt hole right beside the temp sensor, and the other side is connected to the block drain bolt hole beside the oil filter.

I have no flow at all and don't think it is air locked. The heater core is mounted below the top of the rad (relative elevation) just above the hydro foot controls. I am wondering if the by pass loop is short circuiting my heater loop. Your valve set up I think would prevent that.

My dealer came out and did the install as I am not flexible enough to get in the tight working area. I'll send him the pictures.

Thanks so much for the help

Jim

 

[LouNY]

I'm not familiar with your tractor but you will need some differential pressure to get water to circulate.
If hot water is picked up in the block it needs to return downstream of the water pump.
Usually a common point to pickup water for a heater is on the engine side of the thermostat
after the water pump, it is then returned into the block.

 

[jrh009]

I'll pass that along to my dealer. My tractor is identical to the thumbnail pictures in your post of 02-13-2016. Montana 2844 HST

I built my own cab to fit thru my 9x7 doors. Used a Sim's sun shade and modified the rops for height. Made a steel frame that fits under the shade and had a boat top guy make up 4 panels to enclose it all.

I'll post back when I get it working. Oddly 2 of those automotive 150 watt electric heaters keep a degree of warmth in the cab, but I start with a warm tractor as the shop is heated. But they are not a long term solution. Parry Sound, On. gets really cold