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[Polaris35]

I have a Cub Cadet 1450 with no spark. I replaced the condensor and points, but still no spark. The engine cranks over just fine, but absolutely no spark. I confirmed there is power to the points, and both sides of the coil. Any ideas what I need to check/replace next?

Thank you

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Saftey switches? (seat, mower deck, ect)

 

[J_J]

I have a Cub Cadet 1450 with no spark. I replaced the condensor and points, but still no spark. The engine cranks over just fine, but absolutely no spark. I confirmed there is power to the points, and both sides of the coil. Any ideas what I need to check/replace next?

Thank you

Do you have standard points and coil? How did you confirm that you have power to the points. If everything is hooked up correctly, and you have power to the points, then it should fire. The points is the last leg in the spark generation, so when the points closes, the coil builds up energy, and when the points open, the high voltage is generated, and flows to the plugs. In order to kill a running engine, you ground out the coil. Find that wire, it may still be grounded. Sometimes this is done with the throttle control by pulling it past idle.

Do you have a schematic for the wiring?

 

[DJ54]

Did you just acquire this, or did it just quit running?? If it has set out in the rain, it may be possible that the magnet on the flywheel is rusty, and needs cleaning up. Also clean the pickup. Crocus cloth, or if need be, some fine wet & dry sandpaper. Just make sure to blow out any residue.

I like to use medium roloc pads on my angle grinder, to buff the magnet(s). Polishes them real nice.

My GF's Sears twin cylinder had the same problem this spring, after sitting in the barn, and apparently condensation had rusted the magnets. Polished them up, and cleaned the pickup's, and ran like new.

And like the other fellows said, check for worn through covers on leads, grounding it out.

 

[DJ54]

http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf

Here is a link to a online repair manual for you K321. Refer to section 8 for the wiring.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...In order to kill a running engine, you ground out the coil. Find that wire, it may still be grounded.

That was my thought. A typical troubleshooting step for me if there's no spark is to disconnect the grounding wire from the coil and test fire it. That will tell me if it's actually an ignition system problem or if it's some other wiring issue like safety switches, etc.

Also, how are you checking for spark? If you're checking by looking for blue on the plug, you may just need a new plug. I use an inline spark checker, and I've seen spark at the tester and no spark from the plug.

 

[J_J]

After looking at the pdf above, he could have several different electrical systems. Is it breaker-less ign, or just points/battery ign/or electronic ign? The pdf explains all three. and how to test them.

 

[KennyV]

A 1450 has regular points and coil... I have one with what seems like a million hours on it. Great little garden tractor.

He should have 12 volts at his coil with the key on. With the key off and the points closed he should measure zero or low ohms to engine block on the other leg of his coil. If he is checking all this out his problem is most likely his coil they are known to just quit.

This engine is shut off by removing the 12 volts to the coil using the ignition switch. KennyV

 

[ToadHill]

This may sound stupid but I've been known to do it, Is the rotor properly mounted on the distributor shaft?

 

[ToadHill]

Never mind, single cylinder, no rotor needed.

 

[KennyV]

the points...That is another place to look for no spark... if the points are not set right, too loose or too close you will not get a good spark.

He can check the relative condition of the coil by disconnecting the wires and hook one leg to ground, (engine block), and with a jumper wire connect 12 volts from the battery + post to the other coil terminal. With a good spark plug connected to the coil and laying on the engine, you should get a big blur spark on the plug gap. KennyV

 

[Polaris35]

OK, I have replaced the condensor, points, coil, spark plug wire, and spark plug, but still no spark at the spark plug on my 1450 Cub Cadet. The battery cranks the engine over just fine, but absolutely no spark. I am totally baffled. I don't even know what else to replace, or check. I checked and re-tightened the ground cable from the engine to the frame, but still no spark. I don't think the PTO safety switch (or any other safety switch) is the problem because the engine does crank over just fine. Any suggestions what to do next?

Thank you

 

[J_J]

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Go to diagram, 8.3 page 73 of 137

If it is connected like this, then it should work.

You can check the coil independently by connecting 12 volts to the positive terminal, and plug in a known good spark plug wire, connect to a known good plug, and and place the plug to battery ground, now, take a wire from the neg terminal on the coil, and touch the battery neg terminal. You should get a really good spark. You get the spark after you touch and remove the neg wire. When you first touch the coil, the coil is building up a field, and when you remove the neg wire, the field collapses and the spark is generated.

That is essentially what the points is supposed to do.

Do you know how to do electrical and resistance checks?

Send me a PM if you want to talk, and I will send my cell number.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

By what you have posted I am taking it as you have the battery ignition system on that motor. Make sure the points are actually opening and closing. Other than that i dont see why it wouldnt work unless your points or condensor isnt grounded.

Just in case im reading this wrong and you have a magneto and not a coil, then you should check the flywheel key.

 

[J_J]

Polaris35

Post a picture of your coil and points setup.

 

[Polaris35]

I have confirmed the points are opening and closing just fine. Does this motor have a flywheel key that can shear, or break? That may throw the timing of the flywheel off.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

The flywheel should definetly have a shear key in it. It will throw the timing off if you have a mageto type ignition system, but it shouldnt matter with the battery ignition system because the coil is receiving power from a battery and not the magneto. If you do have a camera, then do as JJ says, and post some pics.

Did you check for ground on the points and condensor?

 

[Polaris35]

How do I check for ground on the points and condensor?

Maybe I should take some engine covers off and inspect the flywheel, flywheel key, and stator? I think I remember somewhere this can get dirty and rusty, and may need cleaned.

Thank you

 

[J_J]

Take the battery lead off.

Put your tester in the ohm's/resister mode. or if your tester has a continuity tester, put the leads across the points, and manually open the points. Rotate the flywheel, and the meter should indicate open or closed. The points are only connected to ground when the points are closed, the meter will indicate open when you open the points. Have you set the gap on the points? Point gap .020

spark plug---.025

 

[Ken Cunningham]

Do you know the diffence between a magneto and a coil, if you do not know the difference then go and beg, borrow, or steal a camera and post pictures of the engine with the flywheel cover removed. (well maybe not steal, but you get the idea dont ya) PICTURES

I just thought that i would add that if you do have a magneto then yes

1 A rusty flywheel will make it not work
2 The air gap between it and the flywheel must be set( you can use an index card )
3 A sheared pin will make it not spark