BX2660 dipstick accurate?

[nepa]

I just bought a 2009 BX2660 and in the process of changing all the fluids. The owners manual says that an oil and filter change requires 3.7 qts. When I put in the 3.7 of Rotella T-6 and ran the engine for a few minutes, after shutting it off and waiting a few minutes the oil barely reached the tip of the dipstick. I put in the balance of the gallon bottle and the oil level was now half way between the two holes on the dip stick. Is this right? Also, I changed the antifreeze per instructions in the owners manual by removing the radiator cap and drain plug. Although the system is supposed to take almost a gallon, it topped off with half that, even putting fresh antifreeze in the overflow tank. The instructions did not say anything about draining the block. Any advice? Tomorrow, I will probably change the tranny and filter and clean the screen. I wonder what idiosyncracies will come up here. Are these trannys supposed to be so noisy? The tractor only has 232 hrs. It is hard to get used to the 1400 idle speed.

 

[chucky79]

I don't measure my oil when filling but I will tell you that you should start a little low, run it till hot, then check it after it has had sufficient time to drain back to pan. I filled mine to top dot then the next day it was over. I had to drain a full 8oz off to get it where it needed to be. Im not sure it would have mattered as it was over full from the factory but I am a bit of a perfectionist. On the noisy transmission I will be the first to say yes totally normal if what your hearing is what I hear (a hydro whine). But if its something else then it may be abnormal. Sorry so vague I just need more details to accurately respond. No idea on the coolant, mines not to that service point yet. Be sure to clean that screen when doing the hydro, mine was covered in bits of RVT sealant that squeezed out of the joints and some metal shavings.

 

[sandyc]

Just traded off my 2620 and if my experience with that unit is anything like the others I have owned the capacities are estimates. It is not unusual to add more or less that the manual calls for. The dipstick is your friend....I use the listed capacity as a starting point and adjust from there. As far as antifreeze, you might want to undo the lower rad hose and see if you get more out of the unit. Just a thought. Good luck with your machine....ENJOY!

 

[nepa]

Thanks for the prompt replies. Yes, I would probably call it a hydro whine as it does not sound like anything mechanical. I drained the radiator from the drain plug as it seems to be about half inch lower than the hose is placed on the lower tank.

 

[jim44]

Just as a curious question--------when checking the Kubota engine oil level, is the dipstick supposed to be fully seated or just inserted to where the top sealer makes contact? I don't remember seeing anything specific about this in the book, but Cub Cadet actually says to not insert fully.

 

[sandyc]

Fully seated.

 

[radioman]

first off . congrats on the BX. Its certainly a different breed of a diesel tractor. It is normal to have "high idle speed". The hydro whine is from the rops ringing from the hydro oil vibrating thru the transmission thru the rops bolt downs. Just get expanding foam from the local hardware store and fill up the rops. Note: your tractor is the 4 digit series so you will need to remove rops from tractor and drill a 1/4 inch hole for the foam tubing on one side and 1/4 for otherside for air to escape. My bx is the folding kind so its different on how to approach filling the rops. As for the manual not being accurate -you are not alone. my manual says many things that makes no sense either - I would have to start a thread on that as a rant.

 

[BXman98]

Is that Hydro whine really from the ROPS? I thought that was just how those small hydro transmissions are?

 

[bellweather]

Regarding engine oil level...the manual is incorrect. Trust the dipstick.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Regarding engine oil level...the manual is incorrect. Trust the dipstick.

I can understand a few typos in the manual. I can even understand instructions that are not clear or complete. But I can't understand how they could get something wrong that is as fundamental as engine oil capacity.

 

[Coyote machine]

Get the oil between the marks on the dipstick when the engine is cold, sitting level. That's where it needs to be, regardless of what the manual says.
When you drain it next time measure what comes out, including what the filter held. Put the same amount in, run it briefly, then let it drain down completely and remeasure until it's right. That will give you a better idea for next time. Note the amount in your manual for reference.

 

[nepa]

I did not measure how much came out but I know that it was more than a gallon. I wanted to check if the previous owner made a mistake. By the way, yesterday I was trying to back up with about 300 pounds in the loader. I was only running about 2200 rpm and up hill. The 2660 would not move until I increased the rpm. Does this machine really need the higher engine speeds or is there something wrong?

 

[Coyote machine]

Define hill. Show pic or give hill grade #. We're good, but we're not psychic ! :confused2:

 

[chucky79]

low range is your friend too....I thought my tractor was broke because I couldn't go uphill in high. turns out that high is only for the road to and from job sites. I run my rpm's higher too, seems like the tractor needs it. I will say ive learned on more than one occasions not to worry about the tractor or the drivetrain. You will definitely run out of traction before power. Ive dug big holes with my loaded bar tires on dry ground. She has plenty of power. The hydro whine is "amplified" through the ROPS sort of like a tuning fork. many threads about how quit the tractor is once removed. Just not safe. Some guys drill a hole and fill with foam which worries me about drilling. other guys have reduced but no eliminated the sound by placing rubber pads or cut tire patches between the rops and mounting bolts. Ii personally just don't even pay attention to it anymore.

 

[dragoneggs]

first off . congrats on the BX. Its certainly a different breed of a diesel tractor. It is normal to have "high idle speed". The hydro whine is from the rops ringing from the hydro oil vibrating thru the transmission thru the rops bolt downs. Just get expanding foam from the local hardware store and fill up the rops. Note: your tractor is the 4 digit series so you will need to remove rops from tractor and drill a 1/4 inch hole for the foam tubing on one side and 1/4 for otherside for air to escape. My bx is the folding kind so its different on how to approach filling the rops. As for the manual not being accurate -you are not alone. my manual says many things that makes no sense either - I would have to start a thread on that as a rant.

Really... fill the ROPS? Haven't heard that one before but I imagine it could change the overall sound of the tractor. So are you saying the 'whine' is significantly reduced? If so, I am listening. How did you get the foam all the way around? Did you put a small hose extension on the aerosol can?

I did not measure how much came out but I know that it was more than a gallon. I wanted to check if the previous owner made a mistake. By the way, yesterday I was trying to back up with about 300 pounds in the loader. I was only running about 2200 rpm and up hill. The 2660 would not move until I increased the rpm. Does this machine really need the higher engine speeds or is there something wrong?

I go up some steep hills, some that most wouldn't attempt, especially with a BH on. Going up steep hills I am usually running at least 2400rpm. That 'feels' better.

 

[nepa]

The hill was 20% grade max. Nothing to worry about. On a flat surface the tractor would have backed up, slowly, but moved. But trying to back up a 20% grade at 2200 rpm it would not move with the reverse pedal all the way down. I guess what concerns me is that my other diesels red line at close to this rpm with tons of power (not hydros). The Kubota wants 3000+ to move at any reasonable speed including the FEL. The engine runs nice though. I am glad that I put in synthetic oil considering the high rpm idle and to operate.

 

[BXman98]

Yeah, if you dont have a load in the back of the tractor to ballast for the 300lbs in the bucket, the tractor really wont move anywhere depending on if you are in high or low range, low range helps you move around better under load, it takes stress off of the transmission. I can do many things with mine in high range, but if i was doing what you were doing i would have tried it in 4wd and high range but if i started to chugg, then i would switch it to low range.

 

[dragoneggs]

The hill was 20% grade max. Nothing to worry about. On a flat surface the tractor would have backed up, slowly, but moved. But trying to back up a 20% grade at 2200 rpm it would not move with the reverse pedal all the way down. I guess what concerns me is that my other diesels red line at close to this rpm with tons of power (not hydros). The Kubota wants 3000+ to move at any reasonable speed including the FEL. The engine runs nice though. I am glad that I put in synthetic oil considering the high rpm idle and to operate.

Yeah my HST doesn't 'like' to back up steep hills especially with a load. I try to avoid that maneuver now. Going fwd up hill, no issues.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

. . . But trying to back up a 20% grade at 2200 rpm it would not move with the reverse pedal all the way down. . . .

That may be part of your problem. The HST pedal is not like an accelerator pedal in a car. It is a speed pedal, not a power pedal. You get the most power when you are just barely pushing on the pedal.

 

[s219]

That may be part of your problem. The HST pedal is not like an accelerator pedal in a car. It is a speed pedal, not a power pedal. You get the most power when you are just barely pushing on the pedal.

Echo that. So many people have issues either because they are not using LOW gear when they should (or in HIGH when they shouldn't be), or because they mash the HST treadle too far. The farther you push it, the higher the effective gear range, so it works against you. Need to use the hand throttle to control input power, and go light on the foot treadle to maximize torque. It should only be pushed all the way when you want speed instead of torque.