3-Point Hitch BX25 3 point lowering question

[paulemar]

Just curious if your BB is made for the BX25 as Kubota makes different models of them.If so is it possible to relocate the pins higher on the box? It makes me wonder what Kubota is thinking if they designed their products this way.I remember being frustrated with the TPH on my BX25,when I had it,in that it wouldn't lower enough to unhook my chipper without putting blocks under it.

Yep, it is made for the BX and B series and is the latest version that has the angle iron feet. Well, I'm glad that it appears to be a quirk of the BX25 and not me. I'll adapt to what I have. I really thinking that putting the extra adjustable lift rod on the left side, as I mentioned earlier, will get me at least a couple of inches lower. I want to avoid drilling if I can and will try other options before doing so. Besides, the tractor is only 9 months old and I'd have a hard time putting holes where there "ain't none yet," even in the implements.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have my BH on right now. Will be removing soon as next projects need the 3PT. I will measure up my setup and post results. I have all Land Pride implements. My BB goes down and scrapes well. The scarfiers really dig in. I have mine tipped forward on top as that was my original recomendation from the dealer and have never tried it flat.

 

[paulemar]

I would try unhooking the lower links and make sure they go down when opened side to side all the way. If they do (and they should ) make sure now the upper arms are going all the way down. If they are and its a new machine like mine was I drilled new holes in the lower link arms. Mine was also binding up and had to get everything loose. Also make sure you can push them way about side to side and push them together as you move up and down by hand.

Leejohn, how far back did you drill the new holes from the factory originals and how much more drop did you get out of the modification? Of course, I'd measure and check to make sure that the new holes wouldn't cause any interference on my machine before doing it, but I think I'd be open to drilling the lower links.

 

[Leejohn]

Try this again! I'm thinking 2", well take some pictures tomorrow. They almost go to the ground.

 

[tommu56]

The beat me to drilling but i think you wold have to go closet to tractor.


What about drilling another hole in the lift arm 1" closer to tractor you will loose some lift strength but with a ballast box it shouldn't matter.

I drilled a set out further to get more lift on the back of my box blade on my 23.

tom

 

[94BULLITT]

Here is a pic of my QH, the holes are 2 1/4" higher so I get 2 1/4" more of drop.

 

[Leejohn]

I forgot that I made my lower links the same as a GL, so I can't tell you for sure how low they went after drilling the new holes. The holes were 2" in from stock. Now the new arms are about 4" longer and are 4 1/2" from the ground and 28 1/2" up, I went back to the stock hole. So I'm guessing the old one went down to about the 4". Your stock ones should be about 6 1/2 to 7" from the groung and right around 26 1/2" all the way up.
On the stock arms I moved 2" in I could not tell any differents. The tractor would lift everything I put on it, keep in mind I think the most I hooked to it was around 400 to 500lbs.
I'm going to post some more pictures in the next post and try and show you what I had to do to make everything work the way it should.

 

[Leejohn]

In the 1st pic. look at the left arm and see the U shape part of the lift link. It's right in the middle. In the 2nd pic. you can see the lower U hook up and it's right in the middle and they stay in the middle all the way up and down. You can see at the bottom where I done some welding and looks almost like the right link. What I had to do was cut it turn 180 deg. and move it right to edge of the U part. What was go on, as it went up and down it was bending both U brackets. This was done with lower link arms 26" apart. That is what a std. cad 1 hitches should be. As you go up and down now with yours the lower links want to move in and out without anything on them. Maybe with the check chains it's OK. Good way to tell if it's trying to lockup, see if you can move the lower links side to side when all the way up. Mine moves.
Hope this helps or give you some ideal what to look for.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Leejohn, if paulomar's 3 PT is like yours; they are total;ly different from my 3PT that is a Kubota item that came with it. If so ignore, all I said in a couple of the threads I provided. If it wasn't raining cats and dogs I would post pictures of my setup. I do not have the problems you guys are discussing.

Ron

 

[Leejohn]

Mine was like his, I changed the lower link arms and junked the check chains. I'm sure it was like yours also. I had made the changes to the stock 3pt. way before I made new lower link arms.

 

[94BULLITT]

In the 1st pic. look at the left arm and see the U shape part of the lift link. It's right in the middle. In the 2nd pic. you can see the lower U hook up and it's right in the middle and they stay in the middle all the way up and down. You can see at the bottom where I done some welding and looks almost like the right link. What I had to do was cut it turn 180 deg. and move it right to edge of the U part. What was go on, as it went up and down it was bending both U brackets. This was done with lower link arms 26" apart. That is what a std. cad 1 hitches should be. As you go up and down now with yours the lower links want to move in and out without anything on them. Maybe with the check chains it's OK. Good way to tell if it's trying to lockup, see if you can move the lower links side to side when all the way up. Mine moves.
Hope this helps or give you some ideal what to look for.

If you don't mind me asking how much did the remotes cost? I would like to get a set for mine.

 

[paulemar]

OK! I drilled the holes in the lower links as it was suggested at 2" closer to the tractor. I did check that it would work. (2" is about max) That solved the problem with the ballast box not touching the ground when lowered all the way, with room to spare. I didn't measure but it looked like the lower links were at around 3-4 inches off the ground at the bottom with nothing on them. The adjustable lift rod that I ordered is scheduled to be delivered on Wednesday, which I will install on the left side. That will give me even more drop if ever needed. I will also have lots of options between the original lower link holes and the new ones, plus I will have more adjustment with the adjustable lift rods on each side.

 

[Leejohn]

I not sure, thinking $400.00 for one set. The tractor came from another dealer and I think that dealer had put 2 on it, so I got the 2nd set free, I only ordered 1 set.

 

[Leejohn]

paulemar
Sounds like you got it going now. I don't think you will be able to tell the differents in lifting power. Sure it is some but not much and you can always switch it back.