BX2200 Shed How BIG should I make it?

[woodstock]

Well you know the question, do you have the answers.
My list of equipment includes loader, 50 tiller, 48 snowblower, 60 mower and soon to arrive 48 box blade.
After wrestling with the tiller, for 1/2 hour, I think it would be much easier if it was sitting level when trying to hook up.
So I think we should start with a nice level concrete pad.
I also think each implement should have its own spot in the shop, so I am not draging these 400 pound blocks around all the time. I want to be able to backup and hook up in 5 minutes or less.
So what dimensions?
Where should the door be?
How big and what type a door?
Windows?
Should in be steel sided or wood?
How high does it need to be for inside clearance?

You guys help me design it and I will make the drawings available and show you pictures as it goes up.

I've already got the site picked in the yard and well post pictures of the before and after.

Well what are you waiting for let's get started.

 

[Wheeldog]

Woodstock,

If it was me, I'd just lay it out on a piece of paper with the tractor and attachments drawn to scale. Give yourself some reasonable walk-around space then decide on your shed design from there. Oh, and take the amount of equipment you have now and multiply by 1.5 for your future (toy) additions.

For attachments that aren't on caster wheels you can make carts/stands and that will help you maximize storage space. Here's a picture of a little stand I made for my tiller. If you look in the Attachments section you'll find some really good ideas for different types of stands and storage, made by some guys who actually know what they're doing/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif - unlike me.

Door height should be based on ROPS height (pretty obvious, I know).

- Rob

 

[Bird]

Woodstock, an impossible question to answer./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Don't you know that humans tend to fill whatever space is available?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif So, you're probably going to add additional implements later, store things in the shed besides the tractor and implements, even possibly trade up to bigger tractor someday in the future, etc. However, I think you're right about a nice, smooth concrete floor. I like overhead doors myself and a standard 7' door with do (unless you trade up someday, but that works for my B2710 - I don't have the fold down ROPS that's taller). Just build the biggest building you can afford with the biggest door you can find./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif My building is wood framed, aluminum skinned, but in my opinion an insulated, all metal building is even better. I simply have my rotary cutter, box blade, finish mower, and tiller lined up side-by-side (in that order) so I can just back up to the one I want (all 5' implements except the 40" tiller). I still drag around the middle buster, turning plow, cultivator plow, and 3-point trailer hitch. Good luck with the project.

Bird

 

[watersjj]

I agree with Bird. Make it as big as your pocketbook will allow. In a few years, you will be adding on to it regardless. I started 20 years ago with a 20 x 24 shop. It now has a shed on one side and the rear. We also have a 21 x 18 free standing shed. You might apply Parkinson,s law to this and say that your stuff will accumulate to fill whatever storage space you have. Good luck with your project. I'm looking forward to your photos of the project.

 

[hayden]

I highly recommend the concrete floor and making dollys for your implements. Youcan then rollthe implements anywhere inthe building to store them compactly, and roll up the next one you want to use. Hook up is much easier when the implement can be moved into place and lined up. There's a thread in attachments if I recall on the topic including pictures.

Last is the ROPS height issue. With BX you should be fine with standard 7' doors, but when you decide you need a biger tractor, changing door size is not easy.

 

[frank_f15]

most definite to have concrete pad. and the implements shoud be on dollys so u can move them around. as for windows and doors. windows for sure(nothing better than natural light) if i had it to do over would go with min. 8ft. high doors. and my choice would be 9ft. high. price of door is not that much but cost of everything else to put 9 ft. doors in does escalate. but if cost is not a MAJOR factor. always go bigger. once it is built ,it is built!!!!!

 

[woodstock]

Now we begin the Project (See Pic)

Here it is, not the shed, the site. I live on 5.8 acres which is pie shaped 120 feet at the front and 900 on the river.
This location is about 300 feet from the house and hidden in the forest as you can see. I will start doing some clearing but not too much to start. It was 90+ today time to think not work.
As you have probably guessed, the red tarp is covering the snow blower.
I figure in the spring, summer and fall she'll be comfortable back there. In the winter, I let her hibernate in the heated garage between the wife's PT cruiser and my lowered Dakota Quad cab.
The next posting will be either the cleared site if it doesn't rain this week or scale drawings of the shop showing implement storage locations within so you guys can help out with comments. I am always short of change so you're two cents is always appreciated.

 

[John Weaver]

I am in the process of designing a work shop also. I am attaching a sketch. Sorry for the quality. The building is 25 ft. X 50 ft. (34 ft. X 25 ft. enclosed and 16 ft. X 25 ft. with roof only). John.

 

[hayden]

Looks like your sketch didn't make it. Can you post again?

 

[woodstock]

Its raining Its poring

Well we started clearing the under brush with our JD weed eater using a 14" saw blade, talk about scarey. The small stuff went quick, but while trying to get the old (18 yr) 16" Homelite started, and we didn't, It started poring and big time lightning. So everything is on hold for a day or two.