Grading BX22 and 72" Rear Blade
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Junkman
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Will_C
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
Seth; What are your intentions? I think the 6' blade would probably be ok for snow removal, and the weight won't be a problem, but it will be too much for aggresive dirt work.
Will
Seth; What are your intentions? I think the 6' blade would probably be ok for snow removal, and the weight won't be a problem, but it will be too much for aggresive dirt work.
Will
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
I intend to use it mainly for snow removal. I am looking at the 72" because I believe that with the blade at an adequate angle anything less will barely cover the width of the tractor. For other uses, I appreciate the limitations of the tractor.
Seth
I intend to use it mainly for snow removal. I am looking at the 72" because I believe that with the blade at an adequate angle anything less will barely cover the width of the tractor. For other uses, I appreciate the limitations of the tractor.
Seth
BXMMCC
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
Weight and width isn't the problem with the BX's, it's how high you want to lift the blade. I guess with modifications to the blade and/or the 3pt hitch lift arm brackets on the BX, you can get any blade to work.
Weight and width isn't the problem with the BX's, it's how high you want to lift the blade. I guess with modifications to the blade and/or the 3pt hitch lift arm brackets on the BX, you can get any blade to work.
snowman
Gold Member
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
For what it's worth, I have a 60" blade that, when angled, still covers the tracks of my B7500. I only angle it using the first hole, but that's all the angle I need to have the snow/dirt "flow" off the side of the blade. The attached pic shows the blade already angled - it's not angled alot, but, once again, that's all the angle that it needs to work fine.
Simple way to test if it's wide enough for your tractor is get a board five/six feet long and place it behind your tractor's rear wheels and see how much you can angle it before it stops covering your tire tracks.
I think 60" will be okay for you.
For what it's worth, I have a 60" blade that, when angled, still covers the tracks of my B7500. I only angle it using the first hole, but that's all the angle I need to have the snow/dirt "flow" off the side of the blade. The attached pic shows the blade already angled - it's not angled alot, but, once again, that's all the angle that it needs to work fine.
Simple way to test if it's wide enough for your tractor is get a board five/six feet long and place it behind your tractor's rear wheels and see how much you can angle it before it stops covering your tire tracks.
I think 60" will be okay for you.
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
Snowman,
Thanks for the input and the pix (worth another 7 posts). I ordered a KK RB-OT-72 (it has an offset and tilt), because I had to meet a delivery deadline. I noticed that the weight difference between the 60" and 72" in the KK line was only 20 lbs.
SethO
Snowman,
Thanks for the input and the pix (worth another 7 posts). I ordered a KK RB-OT-72 (it has an offset and tilt), because I had to meet a delivery deadline. I noticed that the weight difference between the 60" and 72" in the KK line was only 20 lbs.
SethO
snowman
Gold Member
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
No - had a 5' snowblower on the front. The combination of the front blower and rear blade did an excellent job on my paved driveway.
I've since traded that front blower for a rear blower with Von (of TBN) because I put a snowplow on my truck this year, simply because I wanted to be able to clear the driveway more quickly.
No - had a 5' snowblower on the front. The combination of the front blower and rear blade did an excellent job on my paved driveway.
I've since traded that front blower for a rear blower with Von (of TBN) because I put a snowplow on my truck this year, simply because I wanted to be able to clear the driveway more quickly.
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Bob_Skurka
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
I seriously doubt you be able to do much with the tilt function of that blade. Given the BX's very limited 3pt lift height and the length of the blade, you may find you need to use the offset to move the blade UP enough to let it tilt DOWN.
I would also be somewhat concerned about pushing that much snow with such a light tractor. If you don't have them, you should seriously consider wheel weights on the rears and some weight on the front end. And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. The BX units are great for mowing and light work, but I think a 72" blade is a lot of blade for that tractor. I have a 60" tilt & offset blade and a 60" box scraper. I could not imagine using more than either of those on my NH TC24D and both are just about the right size for my B2910 (although I think I could upsize to a 72" blade for the B2910). I use the TC24D for some ditch work this summer and could not use the blade in the tilt mode beyond the first angle notch because there was not enough lift height, I know the BX tractors have a couple inches less that the TC. I never tried the B2910 because it doesn't fit well into the ditch unless I raise up the FEL and that makes it unstable to work in there.
I seriously doubt you be able to do much with the tilt function of that blade. Given the BX's very limited 3pt lift height and the length of the blade, you may find you need to use the offset to move the blade UP enough to let it tilt DOWN.
I would also be somewhat concerned about pushing that much snow with such a light tractor. If you don't have them, you should seriously consider wheel weights on the rears and some weight on the front end. And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. The BX units are great for mowing and light work, but I think a 72" blade is a lot of blade for that tractor. I have a 60" tilt & offset blade and a 60" box scraper. I could not imagine using more than either of those on my NH TC24D and both are just about the right size for my B2910 (although I think I could upsize to a 72" blade for the B2910). I use the TC24D for some ditch work this summer and could not use the blade in the tilt mode beyond the first angle notch because there was not enough lift height, I know the BX tractors have a couple inches less that the TC. I never tried the B2910 because it doesn't fit well into the ditch unless I raise up the FEL and that makes it unstable to work in there.
shoppintractors
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
<font color="blue"> And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. </font>
There has been conversations here on TBN about using chains on all four wheels and to my recollection the recommendation was NOT to use chains on all four wheels because of the stresses it causes the MFWD. Maybe someone can add to this with more detail.
Don
<font color="blue"> And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. </font>
There has been conversations here on TBN about using chains on all four wheels and to my recollection the recommendation was NOT to use chains on all four wheels because of the stresses it causes the MFWD. Maybe someone can add to this with more detail.
Don
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
I am partly looking forward too. I hope I can aggressively angle the blade to reduce the working width. If necessary I will take VERY small bites.
In terms of weight, one can always add more weight to the blade itself, instead of wheel weights. Same goes for keeping some materials in the FEL for balance.
I have to admit, though if I am ordering today, I probably would have gone with the 60"
I am partly looking forward too. I hope I can aggressively angle the blade to reduce the working width. If necessary I will take VERY small bites.
In terms of weight, one can always add more weight to the blade itself, instead of wheel weights. Same goes for keeping some materials in the FEL for balance.
I have to admit, though if I am ordering today, I probably would have gone with the 60"
snowman
Gold Member
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
Setho;
Worst case is that if the 72" is too large and you can't accomplish anything with it, is just cut off 1", 2", etc on each end until you get to a width that will work (it may be 5' or it may be 5'1", etc etc).
I used the blade mainly for snow, but I also used it a little bit for dirt work. It didn't work too well in the dirt for me in that it would dig in and I'd lose traction and I wouldn't/couldn't get a smooth surface. If was okay for "topping off" dirt piles or ridges. If I have to do dirt work now, I use my 4' tiller to loosen up the dirt and then use the FEL to scrape if backwards with down pressure; works great.
Setho;
Worst case is that if the 72" is too large and you can't accomplish anything with it, is just cut off 1", 2", etc on each end until you get to a width that will work (it may be 5' or it may be 5'1", etc etc).
I used the blade mainly for snow, but I also used it a little bit for dirt work. It didn't work too well in the dirt for me in that it would dig in and I'd lose traction and I wouldn't/couldn't get a smooth surface. If was okay for "topping off" dirt piles or ridges. If I have to do dirt work now, I use my 4' tiller to loosen up the dirt and then use the FEL to scrape if backwards with down pressure; works great.
Bob_Skurka
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Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade
Snowman, a box blade works about the same way as your tiller and FEL method, or it accomplishes the same thing in a different way. The box blade has scarifiers that tear up the ground about 3 or 4 inches below the surface level and the trailing blade, surrounded by the box, work to drag the dirt.
I totally agree that a rear blade is not very effective as a dirt implement in many cases. I have hung up my tractors after the blade catches too much ground and simply lost all traction. Sometimes there is no substitute for a simple blade, but often jobs are easier done by something else.
As for the issue of moving snow with a BX and a 72" blade, I still think it is too much blade for that tractor, however, a lot of it depends on the amount of snowfall and the type of snow. Certainly a lot of fluffy snow can be pushed, even if it gets deep. But a good heavy wet snowfall will probably stop the tractor pretty darn fast, no different than biting into too much dirt.
As for the issues of Kubotas with wheel weights, I say bunk. Or bull. Or pick your term. What is the difference if you fill your tires with fluid or if you add wheel weights? Either way the axel and 4wd mechanism are dealing with a couple hundred extra pounds on the rear end. I have cast iron on my B2910 and I have steel bar on the front wheels of my NH TC24D. Both are better tractors since adding the weight and neither has had a problem due to the weights.
Snowman, a box blade works about the same way as your tiller and FEL method, or it accomplishes the same thing in a different way. The box blade has scarifiers that tear up the ground about 3 or 4 inches below the surface level and the trailing blade, surrounded by the box, work to drag the dirt.
I totally agree that a rear blade is not very effective as a dirt implement in many cases. I have hung up my tractors after the blade catches too much ground and simply lost all traction. Sometimes there is no substitute for a simple blade, but often jobs are easier done by something else.
As for the issue of moving snow with a BX and a 72" blade, I still think it is too much blade for that tractor, however, a lot of it depends on the amount of snowfall and the type of snow. Certainly a lot of fluffy snow can be pushed, even if it gets deep. But a good heavy wet snowfall will probably stop the tractor pretty darn fast, no different than biting into too much dirt.
As for the issues of Kubotas with wheel weights, I say bunk. Or bull. Or pick your term. What is the difference if you fill your tires with fluid or if you add wheel weights? Either way the axel and 4wd mechanism are dealing with a couple hundred extra pounds on the rear end. I have cast iron on my B2910 and I have steel bar on the front wheels of my NH TC24D. Both are better tractors since adding the weight and neither has had a problem due to the weights.
