Grading BX22 and 72" Rear Blade

   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade #11  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

I seriously doubt you be able to do much with the tilt function of that blade. Given the BX's very limited 3pt lift height and the length of the blade, you may find you need to use the offset to move the blade UP enough to let it tilt DOWN.

I would also be somewhat concerned about pushing that much snow with such a light tractor. If you don't have them, you should seriously consider wheel weights on the rears and some weight on the front end. And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. The BX units are great for mowing and light work, but I think a 72" blade is a lot of blade for that tractor. I have a 60" tilt & offset blade and a 60" box scraper. I could not imagine using more than either of those on my NH TC24D and both are just about the right size for my B2910 (although I think I could upsize to a 72" blade for the B2910). I use the TC24D for some ditch work this summer and could not use the blade in the tilt mode beyond the first angle notch because there was not enough lift height, I know the BX tractors have a couple inches less that the TC. I never tried the B2910 because it doesn't fit well into the ditch unless I raise up the FEL and that makes it unstable to work in there.
 
   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade #12  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

<font color="blue"> And probably some chains on all 4 tires too. </font>

There has been conversations here on TBN about using chains on all four wheels and to my recollection the recommendation was NOT to use chains on all four wheels because of the stresses it causes the MFWD. Maybe someone can add to this with more detail.

Don
 
   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade #13  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

Kubota specifically doesn't recommend the use of wheel weights on the rear wheels. No one has been able to come up with a good reason, but that is what the book says......
 
   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

I am partly looking forward too. I hope I can aggressively angle the blade to reduce the working width. If necessary I will take VERY small bites.

In terms of weight, one can always add more weight to the blade itself, instead of wheel weights. Same goes for keeping some materials in the FEL for balance.

I have to admit, though if I am ordering today, I probably would have gone with the 60"
 
   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade #15  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

Setho;

Worst case is that if the 72" is too large and you can't accomplish anything with it, is just cut off 1", 2", etc on each end until you get to a width that will work (it may be 5' or it may be 5'1", etc etc).

I used the blade mainly for snow, but I also used it a little bit for dirt work. It didn't work too well in the dirt for me in that it would dig in and I'd lose traction and I wouldn't/couldn't get a smooth surface. If was okay for "topping off" dirt piles or ridges. If I have to do dirt work now, I use my 4' tiller to loosen up the dirt and then use the FEL to scrape if backwards with down pressure; works great.
 
   / BX22 and 72" Rear Blade #16  
Re: BX22 and 72\" Rear Blade

Snowman, a box blade works about the same way as your tiller and FEL method, or it accomplishes the same thing in a different way. The box blade has scarifiers that tear up the ground about 3 or 4 inches below the surface level and the trailing blade, surrounded by the box, work to drag the dirt.

I totally agree that a rear blade is not very effective as a dirt implement in many cases. I have hung up my tractors after the blade catches too much ground and simply lost all traction. Sometimes there is no substitute for a simple blade, but often jobs are easier done by something else.

As for the issue of moving snow with a BX and a 72" blade, I still think it is too much blade for that tractor, however, a lot of it depends on the amount of snowfall and the type of snow. Certainly a lot of fluffy snow can be pushed, even if it gets deep. But a good heavy wet snowfall will probably stop the tractor pretty darn fast, no different than biting into too much dirt.

As for the issues of Kubotas with wheel weights, I say bunk. Or bull. Or pick your term. What is the difference if you fill your tires with fluid or if you add wheel weights? Either way the axel and 4wd mechanism are dealing with a couple hundred extra pounds on the rear end. I have cast iron on my B2910 and I have steel bar on the front wheels of my NH TC24D. Both are better tractors since adding the weight and neither has had a problem due to the weights.
 

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