BX Top Link

/ BX Top Link #1  

Scaper

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Messages
193
Location
I live in the state of Delaware in New Castle Coun
Tractor
New Holland 1030
I am in the process of replacing the top link on my BX. Dealer wants over $95.00 for a new one. Has anyone found a replacement for this that is less than what Kubota wants? I have been looking around but as of yet have been unable to find one. Anybody with an idea of where to make the purchase? Scaper
 
/ BX Top Link #5  
The BX uses a shorter toplink than other Cat1 tractors, here's one that falls in the correct length range for the BX.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-3131&catname=

I bought one of those to use with my thumb but have not used it yet. I -think- it is a little too wide to fit into the spot on my tractor (BX-25) where it goes, but not so much that I could not modify it to work. You might want to double check the width of the bracket where it attaches to your tractor.
 
/ BX Top Link #7  
Awesome! Thanks Milkman. I've been needing a replacement for a while (Bent mine).
How bad? Is it kinked, or could you just straighten it?
larry
 
/ BX Top Link #8  
My Quick hitch pushed my implement back to far for the upper arm to reach so I needed a longer upper arm. I priced one coming by a JD dealer one day and they to said around $95. Stopped at TSC and got one for around $20. It's a tight fit between the connect area at the top but a light sledge spread the arms enough to slide it in and a file would have also done the job.
 
/ BX Top Link #9  
How bad? Is it kinked, or could you just straighten it?
larry

Actually, it's just on one end, where the eye is welded to the all-thread. Someone (me), forgot to check for clearances when fully-raised on his 3pt balast when he made it. I'm pretty-sure it can't be straightened and still have use of the threads.

I did find an old, full-size cat 1 top link in the corner of my garage. It was frozen from the day we picked up that particular tractor about 8 years ago. About a month ago, I tossed it into my vat of "purple power". One of these days, I"m going to remove it, un-seize it, shorten the all-thread portion and replace the bent piece on my 1830.

Until then - At least now, I'll have a spare.

That reminds me - time to go fix that design flaw :)
 
/ BX Top Link #10  
Actually, it's just on one end, where the eye is welded to the all-thread. Someone (me), forgot to check for clearances when fully-raised on his 3pt balast when he made it. I'm pretty-sure it can't be straightened and still have use of the threads.

That reminds me - time to go fix that design flaw :)
Probably good to take a critical look. Often, with a couple nuts, a good vise, a hammer, block of wood, and a propane torch you can get it good as new. Trick is to adjust the nuts that you hold it by and moderate heat application to the proper positions so that bending occurs where needed. Make small adjustments to prevent going too far. It has worked every time for me.
larry
 
/ BX Top Link #11  
My Quick hitch pushed my implement back to far for the upper arm to reach so I needed a longer upper arm. I priced one coming by a JD dealer one day and they to said around $95. Stopped at TSC and got one for around $20. It's a tight fit between the connect area at the top but a light sledge spread the arms enough to slide it in and a file would have also done the job.

Grinding down the edge of the ball on the tractor end if the top link will also make it fit. The ball usually has a lip on it that looks like it is made to be ground if necessary.

I'd rather grind the ball on a cheap top link rather than take a sledge to my tractor.
 
/ BX Top Link #12  
Grinding down the edge of the ball on the tractor end if the top link will also make it fit. The ball usually has a lip on it that looks like it is made to be ground if necessary.

I'd rather grind the ball on a cheap top link rather than take a sledge to my tractor.

Agreed. The ball on the Surplus Center top link does have the lip/cylindrical section. That ball is 4 mm wider than the BX-25 standard top link ball, which goes into the bracket quite easily. I'd guess (I forgot to measure before tucking my tractor into the garage) that one would only have to grind off 2-3 mm off the top link available from SC.
The shortest minimum length of the SC top link is longer than that of the original, but is still quite a bit shorter than I have ever used mine at. The threaded sections on the SC one are larger too. 23 vs 20 mm. Perhaps it would put up with a bit more abuse...
 
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/ BX Top Link #13  
Grinding down the edge of the ball on the tractor end if the top link will also make it fit. The ball usually has a lip on it that looks like it is made to be ground if necessary.

I'd rather grind the ball on a cheap top link rather than take a sledge to my tractor.
I'd rather you did to.:) Didn't bother me at all to whack it with the sledge. Tested my Kubota to see if it could take it and it did but you keep grinding and I'll keep sledging and that way both of us will be happy and accomplish our objective!:D I've also never waxed one of my Kubotas but I'm not saying I won't one day.
Had a mathamatician determine one day how many months I averaged per Kubota having bought 12 in 7 years or slightly less than 7 but I think he messed up by not taking into consideration that I still have 4 and kept one no two for 3 years so his average was way off. Only kept two of them for a few months.
He tried it on the 130 plus cars since 1964 but it wasn't very accurate to actual time I owned them due to some being owned for a couple of years and one SL560 for 7 years and some for less than a year.
 
/ BX Top Link #14  
Like some of the others, I purchased a replacement top link at my local dealer and had to lightly touch it up with my angle grinder to get it to fit...No problem though...Link was around $20.

Don
 

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