BX oil change.....

[gsxr1100]

I only use Amsoil HDD&M 15-40 in my BX and use the Kubota OEM filter. I also used it in my JD 455.

Oil goes in like clear and comes out like honey no matter what the hours are. Even in my old '97 Powerstroke with over 12K miles it came out very clear.

I do not go by color or anthing. Just looking at it I can't tell. I would get an oil test done to see. that being noted I will be getting one done on my next BX oil change and will post.

Oh, it cost about $5 for BX22 filter and about $15 for 1-gallon of oil.

 

[theboman]

3.5 quarts of new oil and reusing a filter is 3.5 quarts of new dirty oil. It's a $6 filter and a $10K tractor. That is basic hillbilly algebra and I love fresh apple pie.

 

[Steve_S]

I'll add my 2 cents here. First of all I've changed my fluids pretty much by the book for the first 3 years i've owned my BX. No problems other than things you can't really account for. Now I definately agree that if I'm changing the oil, I'm changing the filter as well. To me, it just doesn't make sense not to. But I think it may just be up to the owner. I've learned that in working on many different machines, most manufacturers recommend changing fluids more often than you really need to. Like trucks. 3000 miles to me is rediculous unless you really work it hard or tow frequently. But as hard as I use my BX I think it warrents changes at 100 hours. Less than that might be overkill, but you can't knock someone for taking care of their equipment.

Also, I like the idea of switching to Synthetic, till now I've only used my dealer's oil since they deliver to my house at no charge. But I'd like to see if using synthetic makes a difference.

 

[dmftoy1]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What is the experiences of others with the BX engine... does your oil turn black after 50 hours of service? Does it stay visually cleaner with synthetic or dino oil? Does the color of the oil make a difference when you change oil??

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif )</font>

Junkman, I don't have a BX, but on my 3 diesels (Ford Powerstroke, Kubota B2910, and VW Jetta) the oil goes in as described previously (clear) and comes out a light brown at the end of the interval. Sometimes it will be dark black. When I was running Rotella (Delvac 1 now in everything) it seemed to go black within the first 200-300 miles. Neither had bad oil analysis' so I don't think it matters, but there's definately a different in "Clarity" on the dipstick. (30 hours on the current batch of delvac and it's got a slight tint to it now on the 2910)

Regards,
Dave

 

[hillslider]

I have always been told that one of the jobs for oil is to keep the engine soot in suspension. Having black oil in a diesel would tell me that the oil is doing the job of keeping that soot from building up in the engine. I would be curious to know why some oils do not turn black. Are they leaving the soot in the engine? This is what I have heard by different people....may be a bunch of bunk!

 

[RiverV]

Junkman,

It's a 1064 NAPA Gold filter. Wix makes NAPA's filters.

Dave...

 

[Tom_H]

Just a couple of related ?s here. Some folks say that 95% of the wear on an engine comes during the few moments of starting, as the oil has drained from the cylinder walls and it takes a few moments for the pump to re-lube the walls. Those few strokes of piston against cylinder wall with almost no lube is supposedly where most of the wear happens.

A lot of truckers have pre-oilers to pump some oil into the head & let it start drippin' into the cylinders before turnin' the starter. Are there any pre-oilers available for CUTs & subCUTs?

Another issue some people make with frequent filter changes is that it can be hard to keep a new filter completely full of oil while screwing it on (unless the filter's oriented straight vertical). On the first crank-up after a filter change, a less than full filter (or, God forbid, you put a new filter on without any oil in it at all), it takes even LONGER before the pump is getting oil to the cylinders. Now they could be lubed some, 'cause you poured the new oil through the head, but still, the first few lubricated revolutions could be followed by a few rev's of fairly dry friction 'till the pump can get some more oil sucked all the way through the new filter & pushed all the way up to the top.

Any thoughts on these issues?

 

[ZackaryMac]

In my profession, I work on ATV's, motorcycles, outboards, etc, and have had enough opportunity to tear down engines for one reason or another. In 20 years of engine rebuilds, I have yet to see a "dry" piston and cylinder of anything that was run any time within a year. Very true that there isn't a lot of oil there, but they aren't dry. Unless you plan on running full throttle right away, engine lube at start up to me really isn't an issue. Even engines that loose their oil pressure from a oil pump failure often ruin the top end before the pistons scuff (OHC engines in particular). Even though this discussion is concerning diesels, these 4 stroke diesels aren't too different from what I work on.
I believe dirty oil is very responsible for accelerated engine wear. Oil has a "life span" and needs to be changed before it's up. That depends greatly on the conditions the engine is operated in.
The cylinders don't get any oil when you pour oil in through the head, as the oil just flows down a return gallery to the sump (oil pan).

 

[RandyBX]

OK, lets all be honest here, How many people have actually put oil in the filter (especially the side mounted ones) while changing the filter and fluid? I have been changing oil in many vehicles for the past 35 years, and observed many garages also. Never did it, or saw it being done.

 

[hfd376]

I run Rotella in the 1800 and the Cummins. Change filter with it at 100 hours. Yep, turns black after about 50 hours. I think I'll start changing to a synthetic oil in both at about November strictly for its "flowabilty" during the winter.

Doug

 

[B2400]

I've ALWAYS put oil in the filter before installation. Even horizontal filters will hold enough oil in them to dampen the filtering media without leaking.

 

[Tom_H]

O.K., some follow up ?'s if you'll indulge me. These aren't meant to be smart alec ?'s. I'm certianly NOT an expert on these things, so these are honest questions.

I understand your point about pistons not being completely dry. I've had other mechanics say that MOST of the oil does drain down while the engine isn't running and that there's more friction due to the RELATIVELY lower amount of lube at crank-up. If there is no more friction at that time than others, what is the purpose of pre-oilers on big rigs?

I've also had several mechanics insist on pre-filling new oil filters. These also happened to be the ones who come across as honest and sincere businessmen. I love Toyotas for many reasons, but I do have to say that they do not appear to be designed with pre-filling of oil filters in mind. Mine have all been horizontally mounted. There are so many cables, hoses, and rigid pipes in the way that by the time I can get a new filter into position and the threads seated, most of the fresh oil has leaked out.

 

[astor]

Guys, I have only 75 hours on my BX2300 and I used Shell Rotella 15-40 at 50 hours, changing the filter also. I was wondering if synthetic oil, in your opinion, is the way to go, or if you stick with the manufacturers recommendations any oil will do.

Thanks

 

[Jimbrown]

Ahh this simple question has been known to start fist fights, hate mail , and spam wars. It falls into the same area as which is better Ford or Chevy. Most answers and arguments for either side are based on personal opinion and no true facts. The only real answer is to use what makes you feel good. Personnaly I use Rotella 15-40. The only machine I ever ran synthetic in was a BMW because that is what BMW uses inorder to have 15000 mile oil changes and BMW changed it for free.

 

[ZackaryMac]

Pre-oilers aren't a bad thing by any means, but are they necesary? Good question. The engine in my Sonoma came from a truck with 500,000kms on the clock, and it runs great. Yes, I put it in anyway. I had a Jetta diesel with 611,000 kms on it and to the best of my knowledge neither of these engines have been rebuilt. Are they worn? No doubt. Worn out? Nope. I know of many diesel VW's with lots of mileage on them, with no problems. Same as Mercedes. Isuzu's also. Lots of trucks had no pre-oilers on them for years and they lasted many miles. Does pre-oiling help? Likely. Is it worth it? That would have to be your decision.
As far as pre-filling your filter, it isn't a bad idea, even if lots of it comes out before the filter manages to be tightened down. Increasing the lube time from start-up isn't a positive thing. I do it when I can, but not all the time. The filter on the Sonoma sits thread-down in a hard-to-reach location, so I don't always pre-lube it.
Remember, this is just my opinion. Feel free to agree, or not. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[SCB]

RandyBX,
count me in on the filling the filter crowd. I hava always done this with my vehicles. Does it create less wear on the engine? Who knows. But it is a simple thing that I have always done.

 

[Bird]

I don't know whether or how much it would help, but filling the filter before installation sounds like a good idea; however, I'm among those who have never done it.

 

[Charley]

Nearly 25 years ago, one of my jobs on our farms was to maintain the irrigation engines, mostly Detroit Diesels. We performed oil analysis on every oil change for these engines and every other engine we had, gas or diesel. Regarding oil types/brands/weights/etc., I've yet to see any scientifically solid evidence to support any particular oil decision (other than weight). In my opinion, oil analysis, or more specifically, a series of oil analysis provides the best information to make decisions about equipment condition and oil change intervals.

I run synthetic in most of my vehicles these days (including my Kubota) only because of its cold weather viscosity. My basic theory is if the oil is not over contaminated and flows at cold temperatures, that engine won't fail due to lubrication.

 

[BIGUN]

I have never seen a service manual on any equipment I have owned that recommended or even mentioned filling the filter with oil before installing. I have never done so, I just start the engine without touching the throttle until after the pressure has come up, and never had any problem.

 

[bellweather]

I have seen pre filling the oil filter mentioned in manuals, mostly Bristish cars of the 50's & 60's. I don't think in can hurt to do it, but my belief is that modern lubricants are better than those of yore, and it is really not necessary. Like Bigun, I just let the engine idle until the oil pressure comes up. I figure there is enough residual oil on the moving parts to prevent damage during the few seconds it takes for the oil pressure to come up. Also, I agree with others that trying to negotiate a pre-filled oil filter into position can be an excersize in futility...and a BIG MESS.