BX Fuse Box Question- Spares

[Lockport]

As there are 2 provisions for spare circuits in the fuse box complete with 15 amp and 20 amp fuses, where can I find the hot wire to make it work. Also, under my seat, there is a red with black stripe wire with a female end connector and a black wire with a male end connector, not connected. What are these? Are they the rear work light circuit?

Thanks all!

 

[surfran]

The wires under your seat are there for a rear light or whatever you want to use them for. They are on a separate 20A fuse on my BX1800. I used them to wire in a plug I attached to the rops that I attache my lights to for the Winter.

I use magnetic base lights and take them off for Summer.

I could also use the power for a sprayer if I ever buy one in the future.

I forgot to mention that the red/black stripe is the hot one. The black is ground. At least on mine it is. Also this is turned on and off with the ignition. You will want to add a switch and maybe a relay depending on your application. Also note if you have the stock alternator you shouldn't add more than (2) 55W Halogen lights.

Good luck.

 

[Lockport]

Thanks, that works and I will put the rear facing (2)55 watts on that circuit for the standard rear work light. I have also rigged illuminated toggles on the forward side of the SMV bracket in a weatherproof junction box. I want to run a seperate circuit for the forward facing lights from the 20-amp spare fuse in the stock fuse block. I just need to figure out how to get a keyed, hot wire to the junction box. I was surprised there was not already one there. I hade some steel plates made and I am going to cold weld them to the ROPS and paint them Kubota Grey. I also have the heavy duty alternator on order. It should come from the dealer when the snowblower comes. Has any one ever run a keyed hot wire to the fuse box? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Berniep]

I used the ones under the seat for the sprayer and plan to use them for Work lites also as soon as I find lights I like. I found a picture of the swicth box I installed. I put a polarized pigtail on it so I could use the same switch for the sprayer or lights.

BTW
What is "cold weld"?

 

[Keybal]

Yes. I added both rear and forward facing 55 watt Halogen lights to the ROPS.

I purchased 4 of the same brackets that hold the optional rear work light (K2561-96250; PLATE WORKING LIGHT, brackets were $$$), made my own u-bolts out of 1/4" all thread and mounted the lights on the ROPS.

I then purchased 1/2" slit-convoluted sleeving (the same stuff all the wiring on the tractor is already in) from McMaster Carr supply. I installed three 14 gauge wires in the sleeving, ty-rapped it to the rops and routed the sleeving to the seat area and then under the tractor to the front area somewhere around the oil filter. The sleeving was ty-rapped all along the way to keep it secure. Then routed it through the existing wiring hole in the firewall.

I picked up electric from one of the switched spares on the fuse box. I mounted a marine grade SPDT (single pole double throw) switch on the left side of the tractor console. I also mounted two 20 amp enclosed relays either on one of the support brackets or the firewall (can't remember without looking) and did all of the wiring. The way it is set up with the SPDT switch, I can only turn on the front or rear light at one time. I figured I would only be going in one direction at a time when using the lights. I had the high amp alternator installed when I purchased the tractor.

Bottom line, after the long winded explanation, you can run wiring from the back to the front of the tractor with some effort.

 

[Lockport]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I picked up electric from one of the switched spares on the fuse box.)</font>

Therein lies my problem. I have two spare fuses on the fuse block. A 15 and a 20 but they are just held in place by electrical tape as there are no contacts to hold them in place as there is no hot wire present. There are no wires at all to these two spares slots. You imply that your has a "keyed" hot wire already there. What gives? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bottom line, after the long winded explanation, you can run wiring from the back to the front of the tractor with some effort. )</font>

That's exactly what I am going to do. I want my forward lights fused through the box behind the intake screen and the rears by the factory work light contacts under the seat, but also fused up front. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Lockport]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( BTW What is "cold weld"? )</font>

Bernie

Cold weld is like an epoxy mix of two sperate components, I guess a glue and a hardner but works very well on metal and dries just as hard. It is great for adding a muffler or exhaust to a small engine when you do not have the proper fitting. I don't know how well it will adhere without the significant amount of heart that runs through an exhaust as that does help it cure. Time will tell (or the first tree limb) if I have to make clamps or find 3" u-bolts with threads starting at 1.5" up the ends. On the plus it dries to a Kubota gray! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I will post pictures when I get back and finish it.

 

[Keybal]

Steve:

I finally looked at how I had obtained the power for the lights that I mounted on the ROPS.

It turned out that I ran a power wire directly from the main source of the other switched power, which I believe would be the block mounted to the starter motor.

See photo

 

[Keybal]

Close up

 

[Keybal]

I took that wire to one of the two spare fuses at the fuse block.