Buying new tractor - novice operator

[gryhnd]

Thank you all so much! I am in Tennessee, between Clarksville and Nashville (closer to Clarksville). Within the last year, a Kioti dealer moved/opened another location which is about 3 miles from me. They are the ones I called to ask if they would look at the NH. The NH dealer is about 20-25 minutes away.

The only reason I thought of Kubota is because friend's buddy works there, they are in Clarksville (and Nashville) and there is John Deere in Clarksville but I'm not interested in them. I don't know anything about the reputation of the dealers other than looking at online reviews.

My husband had the tractor serviced once, paid NH to pick it up, service it, and return it. Since my husband was sick for all of 2020 and not terrific the year before and other intermittent periods, chores and maintenance has definitely fallen behind. And this was his first tractor, so it's not like he had a lot of experience either. He always said it was not difficult to change the attachments, but so far, I have not even attempted to change them, so i will look into some of the suggestions above.

I definitely need to read the manual. Just reviewing the bush hog manual, i realized it needs oil - did not know that. I'm not very mechanical-minded, I'm afraid. I do know a few things from husband, to keep the FEL low for stability, do NOT run it empty. Turns out i wasn't putting PTO in gear properly with clutch, but now I know that.

I think I've been a little rough on the tractor, thinking it is capable of more than it actually is (trying to knock down small trees, etc.). Of course I have never operated a chainsaw. However, now that I have found these two guys (who I have coerced into being friends ) who have large equipment and cut trees, build driveways, knock down houses, etc. for a living, they've helped me a lot around the property (paid jobs and also extra help for free) and will change the attachments for me, just a matter of waiting until they can come by. They are not mechanics though.

I think I will hold off on purchase, at least for this year. I am okay with shifting, just realize it would be a lot easier not to, especially when I often have to repeatedly go from reverse to forward when trying to deal with creekbed. I do not think I spend enough time on it to warrant spending extra for a cab. After reviewing the specs, I was coming to the conclusion that out of Kubota products, the L3301 would be my best option.

I was hoping to get a chance to look under the tractor and see if I can see anything obvious with the leak, I think all fo the fluid probably exited. The first time, the handyman said I needed new hoses, and I guess it's possible they wore out, so he replaced them. He had a tough time getting them off. So it's entirely possibly that with hand tools in the yard where I had to leave it, he didn't tighten new hoses enough.

I could pay NH to come pick it up, but first it has to be moved from the very tight spot it's in, which will hopefully be done tomorrow. However, Kioti has agreed to look at it, and Kioti would not be out of the way for the guys to transport it there, or i could also ask Kioti if they would pick it up, but I didn't get the impression that they normally service other brands, so don't want to push my luck.

I decided I will never attempt the slope/hill in the upper field, will hire the guy w/ skid steer to do it, he's coming tomorrow since it hasn't been cut in several years. I agree that the tractor is not terribly stable on hills, was even uncomfortable when I had to drive it on creek rock.

 

[JWR]

Great post Gryhnd... you have the right approach -- don't need a cab, sense enough to get others to do things you can't / shouldn't such as chainsaw work and shoving over trees. Your TC-30 is not made for that nor is there reason to buy one that was! Hiring things done versus realistics of doing yourself shows in your verbiage. GOOD ! Good judgement to wait a while before deciding to purchase (or not.) You will gain experience rapidly and all of it will be good prep for the decision later.

BTW, chances are excellent that the very nearby Kioti people can sort out your hydraulic leak (as those things are usually NOT brand specific.) Hoses don't really wear out per se but I'm sure they will diagnose it.

 

[jeff9366]

Kioti is produced in Korea.

Kubota and Yanmar are produced in Japan.

Kubota, Yanmar and Kioti produce almost all tractor components in their own factories, therefore buy few components from outside, relative to other brands. This should optimize parts availability 15 years hence.

Korean manufacturing labor is paid 20% less than Japanese manufacturing labor in USA dollar terms. This favors Kioti pricing.

Kioti is certainly worth considering......

 

[flagpond01]

Hi, female here with a lot to learn, safety being priority. My husband passed away in December so I'm on my own with 20 acres (less than half of that needs mowing). I have a New Holland TC-30, manual/gears, purchased new around 2007. Attachments: FEL, Rotary cutter RZ 60 Bush Hog, Finishing mower, box blade. Also auger but doubt I'll use that much. I need the bush hog for rough areas of tall grass/bushes (depending on how often it's maintained), guessing maybe 5 acres. Also need bush hog if behind on horse pasture (several acres). Then ideally move to finishing mower for pastures and possibly rough areas if have kept up on it, but some may always need to be bush hog. Box blade for gravel driveway and also moving rock in seasonal creek so it's passable with truck near barn.

Also, do have ZTR mower which I'm now using on most of horse pasture (once it had been cut with bush hog) although I'd prefer to use finishing mower.

TC30 had issue and all hydraulic fluid leaked out and I could not steer it back to house. Obtained new hoses from New Holland dealer and a handyman (no experience with tractors) changed the hoses for me. Used it a bit and now it has poured out again. Realize it is possible he didn't tighten the hose connections enough, or I'm hitting something (?), was trying to cut a rough overgrown area belonging to neighbor at the time.

Friend has suggested I trade for a hydrostatic transmission, which would be easier for me to operate. He has a buddy at Kubota, so that is what I am considering since he'll help me shop and also transport it home. My initial thought was that I need to stay with the same HP. It's possible I will hire out for some of the rougher stuff going forward, at least until it's under control. Most of the ground is level, but part of the rough field is not (I will likely not be comfortable cutting on the hilly part). There are what I'd call obstacles around the place, a pond with a raised bank, fencing, areas where when creek overflows, branches/logs/rocks will be left behind so I try to be careful and keep the cutter raised a bit.

I've narrowed it down to L2501 (wt 2,601, HP 24.8/19 PTO), LX2610SU (wt 1,786, HP 24.8/19.5 PTO) or L3310 (wt 1,918, HP 30.8/27 PTO or LX3310 (wt 2,778, 33HP/26PTO). Current setup is wt 2,193, PTO 30/25.5 PTO, so the LX's weigh less and the 2501s are less HP than TC30.

Questions/concerns:

1. Weight of tractor - going by the general rule I read, some of these seem to be underweight for HP. If that's the case, then do most people add weight? I don't want to have traction/stability issues. Will be 4WD/ROPS.

2. HP - should I be staying with at least what I have now, which would be the 3310s, or is it possible less HP would be okay? I feel TC30 is sometimes not as stable as I would expect, but I could just have the wrong expectations for what it's capable of doing and likely I've tried to have it do more than what it can do this summer (heavy brush/small trees, and realizing bush hog hasn't been serviced). Time is not really a factor, sure would be nice to cut quicker but I don't have to. Normally when I bush hog, I have to keep it in 1st gear.

3. Attachments - if the 5' bush hog needs 25hp PTO to operate properly, that that knocks out the 2501 models, unless I trade for 48".

4. Any reason I should be considering larger? I think that now that I have found a few people to hire, if it's too rough I will leave it alone and let them cut it with other equipment.

My understanding is the LX series has more options - I don't need a better seat or a tilt steering wheel, for example, but of course if that is the best tractor for me, I won't turn them down .

Appreciate your input.

I have a New Holland tn55s and our dealer will come get it. Two times while Bush hogging underbrush has snared my fuel line and pulled it loose emptying the tank. Fortunately not much fuel either time but I had to re-route my fuel line. I guess my point is that it is possible that something is snagging you hydraulic line. Regarding hydrostatic, one of our old timer farmer-neighbors works at a Bristol campground for the Nascar races. The campground has a hydrostatic reactor and he raves about how much it socks compared to gear driven. Very underpowered compared to similar hp tractors he has owned/driven.

 

[flagpond01]

I have a New Holland tn55s and our dealer will come get it. Two times while Bush hogging underbrush has snared my fuel line and pulled it loose emptying the tank. Fortunately not much fuel either time but I had to re-route my fuel line. I guess my point is that it is possible that something is snagging you hydraulic line. Regarding hydrostatic, one of our old timer farmer-neighbors works at a Bristol campground for the Nascar races. The campground has a hydrostatic reactor and he raves about how much it socks compared to gear driven. Very underpowered compared to similar hp tractors he has owned/driven.

Sorry about the typos.

 

[Hall00]

The guys that you have befriended that do the driveway work, tree service, attachment swapping, etc...ask them to look at your hydraulic leak problem. A good chance they can at least give you a good idea of the issue.

 

[JWR]

The guys that you have befriended that do the driveway work, tree service, attachment swapping, etc...ask them to look at your hydraulic leak problem. A good chance they can at least give you a good idea of the issue.

Halloo is right; they do not have to be mechanics to probably get in there and see what is leaking/how it is leaking -- may not tight , maybe hoses with poorly swaged ends on them, etc. Usually not tractor specific nor mechanic specific problems.

 

[Tony H]

I need the bush hog for rough areas of tall grass/bushes (depending on how often it's maintained), guessing maybe 5 acres. Also need bush hog if behind on horse pasture (several acres). Then ideally move to finishing mower for pastures and possibly rough areas if have kept up on it, but some may always need to be bush hog. Box blade for gravel driveway and also moving rock in seasonal creek so it's passable with truck near barn.

Hi, female here with a lot to learn, safety being priority.

I am going to reference another thread. Safety is your priority. Steep slopes are the priority for the poster. A Ventrac or Steiner could be the solution for both you, as mowing is the prime tractor application foreseen by both of you.

What advice would you give someone using equipment in the mountains? I would probably use a Zero turn for the lawn grass.

Consider a Ventrac or Steiner for your primary mower.
Ventrac is a division of Toro.

Expensive, durable, two-plane articulated equipment designed for mowing slopes.

The primary market for both Ventrac and Steiner is golf courses. Service should be available in western NC.

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Ventrac+Steiner


A little fear is better than a notion of invulnerability during tractor research.

Ventrac. Low5 clearance tractor for Toooooo much $$$. Attachments are proprietary hookup for too much $$.
New or old tractors, 3pt hookups have not changed much. Hydro trani would be great but, for you should able to follow thevCoil and fix the little but reliable tc30

 

[shooterdon]

Sorry for your loss....

You are smart enough to learn to safely use a tractor and not push the limits.

I hire work done that I feel is best done by others. Your thinking on that is spot on.

As to connecting attachments, I found these helped me do the job a bit easier:
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE A couple of my attachments were not Quick Hitch compatible or I would have considered the QH.

Unless you are sure your attachments are Quick Hitch compatible, Be wary of going that route. The videos are compelling but many attachments must be modified to work with the QH. Easy to get sucked in.

Getting your current tractor repaired is wise and I am glad to see you are doing that. Spend a year working with it and you will make a better decision if you decide to replace it. When evaluating that option, if what you have does a good job on 90% of your tasks, hiring out the other 10% may not only be safer but a better option financially.

Good luck!!

 

[JWR]

Sorry for your loss....

You are smart enough to learn to safely use a tractor and not push the limits.

I hire work done that I feel is best done by others. Your thinking on that is spot on.

As to connecting attachments, I found these helped me do the job a bit easier:
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE A couple of my attachments were not Quick Hitch compatible or I would have considered the QH.

Unless you are sure your attachments are Quick Hitch compatible, Be wary of going that route. The videos are compelling but many attachments must be modified to work with the QH. Easy to get sucked in.

Getting your current tractor repaired is wise and I am glad to see you are doing that. Spend a year working with it and you will make a better decision if you decide to replace it. When evaluating that option, if what you have does a good job on 90% of your tasks, hiring out the other 10% may not only be safer but a better option financially.

Good luck!!

Outstanding overview of this situation. I agree 100%.

I will add advice to be wary of quick hitch devices. The key problem is that most (heavy inverted U shaped) quick hitches are completely fixed and inflexible in width. Some attachments fit and others won't. They seem to be made for Class 1 or Class II and I discarded mine. No where near universal enough. I do recommend (as others mentioned) getting extendable lift arm ends one way or another. There are aftermarket ones sold, etc. I said earlier that changing implements will be your #1 challenge over time using this or any other tractor.