Comparison Buying my first sub compact tractor need help deciding.

[RB5]

Agree with all Eric said and want to add that the FEL can also help you get unstuck.

I've used the FEL to lift my tractor up and place logs under the wheels to get unstuck. There are some places where the clay soil here doesn't dry out that fast. It can be really fun.

 

[Leonard]

I bought a farm in Upstate NY, I have leased most of the acres to a nearby farmer, so I'm just looking to maintain the 5 acres around our house. The terrian is flat with some hills. I'm looking to use the tractor for mowing and plowing my driveway along with yardwork/ landscaping projects. The subcompact tractors I was considering were the LS MTl25, Kioti 2520, Mahindra 25L HST and the New Holland Workmaster 25s. I would have considered JD and kubota but there aren't dealers in my area and there also out of my budget. I'm also set on getting a new tractor for 0% financing. Does anyone have experience with these models and which do you think would be the best option. I do like the NH wm25s but I heard LS makes the same tractor.

Just my opinion since you are not replying to anyone yet. When shopping for my tractor for my 5 ac back in 2004. My Kubota dealer recommended 18hp for me. I purchased a 24 hp B7610 (Sub compact). There are times it would be nice to have a larger tractor. I use Brush cutter, Tiller, Front loader most of the time but have Disc, Post Hole Auger, Row Hiller, and Sub Soiler which all get used sometimes. My biggest regret is not getting a Back Hoe. My 4ft implements just take a little more time than the larger 6ft implements. For me, I enjoy my tractor time.
There are only 2 dealers near me, Kubota and New Holland.
As others have said, Let us know of your decision.

 

[Yander]

Tractors are a little like tattoos - people tend to start small, then get comfortable and later realize they really want / need more. If you’re starting from scratch (as in never had or used a tractor before) you do not appreciate what you’ll be able to do, what the range of attachments is and how much fun you’re going to have. If your lease plans change, you’ll probably outclass a tiny tractor real quick. And more owners try to do more (lift more) than their little guys are good for. Go bigger than you think from the start. You’ll never have too much tractor but plenty of guys I know have too little.

I agree with this. Buy a used compact or subcompact and use it as a learning tractor. Unless you can wrench on it yourself, get something that isn't more than 10 years old with not over 1,000 hours. You can get them around $10 - $12k if you keep an eye out. I've even seen SCUTs around $8k with loader but they are more rare.

 

[Giltai]

I bought a farm in Upstate NY, I have leased most of the acres to a nearby farmer, so I'm just looking to maintain the 5 acres around our house. The terrian is flat with some hills. I'm looking to use the tractor for mowing and plowing my driveway along with yardwork/ landscaping projects. The subcompact tractors I was considering were the LS MTl25, Kioti 2520, Mahindra 25L HST and the New Holland Workmaster 25s. I would have considered JD and kubota but there aren't dealers in my area and there also out of my budget. I'm also set on getting a new tractor for 0% financing. Does anyone have experience with these models and which do you think would be the best option. I do like the NH wm25s but I heard LS makes the same tractor.

Hi I brought a 29jp hydrostatic TYM which is a Korean tractor. Here in NZ at the time were 2 to 4k cheaper than known brands. I have had it for about 3 years and r
o date had no issues with it.we ae on 5 flat acres and it has a FEL so I have. Forks also a mower which goes well.

 

[jyoutz]

It's your money, and if a sub compact is what you want, that's fine, but I'll throw my opinions in;
1) consider atleast one of the half size larger than Sub; along the lines of the RK25/TYM25, the Massey 1526, ect. The subs really do have very very low ground clearance, and even for 'yard work' the loader lift capacity is pretty dang low.
2) you said you are set on 0% financing; which is fine; but atleast ask what the payments over the same period of time, at conventional rate would be; it is often the same payment, or lower, because the 0% basically is pre-paymwnt of intrest; IE; $17,500 foe conventional vs $20,000 for 0%.

What you say is true with your example comparing the two prices. However it’s very difficult to actually see that much price difference for new tractors sold by dealerships for cash vs financing. The most cash discount that is common nowadays is about $500. In which case, you may as well take the zero interest financing.

 

[EdwardL]

The 25L is a compact. Not a sub-compact. -- I have the sub-compact Emax 20s. It was small enough to fit where I needed to put it, with a backhoe.

Most of what others here say about ground clearance and such is BS. I've also operated a 40 horse Kubota (double my 20 hp Emax), and unless your pulling 8 ft box blade all day, the 25L will suit you fine.

there are some things you might want, like wheel spacers if you will be mowing sideways on a hill, a york rake or pinestraw rake, back blade, etc. Figure on adding lights for winter plowing. The initial 50 hour service will cost you $500 in oils and filters. But you can change them yourself.

 

[paulsharvey]

What you say is true with your example comparing the two prices. However it’s very difficult to actually see that much price difference for new tractors sold by dealerships for cash vs financing. The most cash discount that is common nowadays is about $500. In which case, you may as well take the zero interest financing.

I meant the 'purchase price' when getting conventional fianceing vs getting 0% financing. The dealer I bought from had two prices for each machine; cash/conventional fianceing or a separate, higher price, for 0% fianceing. So, this picture is from approx 12 months ago, but for my machine it was $20,499 vs $23,649 depending in how you fianced it. That is just the conteact price, not related to insurance credit, or anything else.

So; $20,500 @ 7% for 60 months= $355/month; and $23,650 @ 0% for 60 months= $394/month and would basically come with a repayment penalty, as the contract ammount is the $23,650, whether ita paid back on week 1 for the full price, or on week 240.

 

[FPGT72]

I've used the FEL to lift my tractor up and place logs under the wheels to get unstuck. There are some places where the clay soil here doesn't dry out that fast. It can be really fun.

I hear you on the clay, it is real slippery when wet. I too have used the bucket to "push" me back so I could get to some dryer ground.

 

[FPGT72]

I really think it comes down to what you want to do with it. Many people will over buy for what they need, you will never hear from those people that can't get the big machine between trees to go where they want to go. Those people that did buy too large will defend their decision to the ends of the moon, bigger is more "manly"....cue the Tim Taylor grunts.

There are people that can correctly estimate really what they are going to be doing with it and buy the right sized machine for what they are going to want to do. It might take them two buckets of gravel where on the larger machine would take one, but really not many of us bid out the jobs we do, and doing it a little faster does not cost us any more money then perhaps a few drops of diesel fuel. Plus we can tell our wife we are "working" in the yard moving gravel or whatever.

I bought a sub compact years ago, I don't know when it first came out, don't remember but I do know it was a new model when I bought it....whenever that was. It currently has about 700hrs on it, and is doing just fine. I use it all the time for things I just never even thought I would, it is so handy. I can roll this setup into the back of the shop because the tractor is small enough to go all the way in there without hitting anything. I could not do that with a larger machine.

 

[jyoutz]

I meant the 'purchase price' when getting conventional fianceing vs getting 0% financing. The dealer I bought from had two prices for each machine; cash/conventional fianceing or a separate, higher price, for 0% fianceing. So, this picture is from approx 12 months ago, but for my machine it was $20,499 vs $23,649 depending in how you fianced it. That is just the conteact price, not related to insurance credit, or anything else.

So; $20,500 @ 7% for 60 months= $355/month; and $23,650 @ 0% for 60 months= $394/month and would basically come with a repayment penalty, as the contract ammount is the $23,650, whether ita paid back on week 1 for the full price, or on week 240.View attachment 871423

I agree with your math. I was just pointing out that many dealers don’t offer much of a cash discount anymore. That price difference shown on the board is hard to find nowadays.