BushHog 286 w/B&P or Binnachi slip clutch - which disks?

[JRobyn]

Hi guys. Per title; I know I have the Bondioli&Pavesi/Binnachi slip clutch since the center of the Flange Plate is solid (no hole). That doesn't help a lot - BushHog's manual tells me nothing about clutch parts. GermanBliss shows that there could be any one of 3 models of clutch. I'm pretty sure that the PTO shaft is Binacchi. The outer diameter of the Flange Plate appears to be 200mm. The only other identifying marks I can find on it are what I assume to be a casting number of 6605312 on the Flange Plate.

So exactly which friction disks does this thing take? I'd really prefer to have them on hand BEFORE I disassemble it.

On a related note, it appears that the rear friction disk is completely GONE! If anyone has seen this before, does it mean that I should also plan to order a replacement Pressure Plate and/or Inner Plate?

Photo to follow after it gets to the cloud.

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

Following. Just picked up this same unit and it needs some work.

 

[JRobyn]

Well Jason, it looks like you and I are the only ones who have ever contemplated rebuilding our slip clutches!

I'll try giving Bush Hog a call to see if they have any old records. Not too hopeful with the various ownership changes.

 

[JRobyn]

Well, I'm surprised and amazed! Bush Hog Customer Service/Parts says that we need disks that are Bush Hog part number 91560 (only available through a Bush Hog dealer), or that they are 6 - 1/4" OD, 3 - 3/4" ID.

There is also a disk "kit", consisting of the two friction disks and 8 replacement springs - p/n 91562.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

6 1/4 is not 200 mm. Might someone have changed out the slip clutch?

 

[JRobyn]

200mm (7.87") is the outside diameter of the "Flange Plate". The disks are allegedly 6 - 1/4" OD. Sounds about right to me. I bought the hog new and unmolested.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

It looks like the gap where the friction plate is, is still like 3/8" thick. What is it doing? Slipping a lot or continuously? It looks like all 6 of your spring nuts are looking adjusted good. Did any oil or lube get on it? Are the blades sharp? Are you cutting bahia? All of these are factors.

Here is the link to the parts diagrams.
http://www.bushhog.com/uploads/documents/BHRotaryCutter280seriesPM-11.pdf

 

[bspeedy]

You might also consider a new one from agri-supply. Probably an import, but I bought one and it was beefy. Sold it with the cutter I put it on. Yep - Bush Hog 286. About 60 bucks if I recall correctly and about two minutes to install.

 

[JRobyn]

It looks like the gap where the friction plate is, is still like 3/8" thick. What is it doing? Slipping a lot or continuously? It looks like all 6 of your spring nuts are looking adjusted good. Did any oil or lube get on it? Are the blades sharp? Are you cutting bahia? All of these are factors.

Here is the link to the parts diagrams.
http://www.bushhog.com/uploads/documents/BHRotaryCutter280seriesPM-11.pdf

Thanks for the link - notice that there's at least 3 different slip clutches used on a model 286. All have different friction plates.

There IS a gap where the two friction plates, the "hub", or driven plate, and the inner plate all reside. Except on mine, the rear friction plate is gone. That's why it's slipping. The springs (8) ain't doing much when there's 1/8" or so of plate missing from the sandwich.

 

[JRobyn]

Got it all apart. Sure enough, the rear friction plate is totally GONE and the rear ("inner") plate is a rusty disaster. Since I'd spend hours or at least $30-$40 trying to get it resurfaced, and then probably be out-of-spec too thin, I think I'll just order the pricey OEM Bushog plate from Messicks ($51+s/h).

My taper bolt that holds the whole clutch on the bushhog gearbox input shaft is also quite worn. Anyone know of a source for these NOT Bondioli&Pavesi/Binnachi? I see that Messicks only sells a "kit" of 3 different tapered pins (p/n 90938 - $44.07). That sure seems high for the ONE replacement tapered bolt I need. I don't recall ever seeing these at Fastenal or Tractor Supply.

Step 1 - remove all the existing nuts and springs



Step 2 - slide the whole front section of the clutch off the bolts and center hub



Step 3 - remove the 3/4" taper bolt nut from the main hub and punch the taper bolt out (careful of the threads - leave the nut on a few turns and tap lightly).

Step 4 - wiggle the main hub off the splined bushhog gearbox input shaft.

Here's how the parts lay out, fortunately just like the Messicks parts diagram. Unfortunately missing the rear friction plate and with a rusty mess for what remains of the rear "inner plate"




Here's my tapered bolt. I'm guessing it's too worn to reuse.