Bush hog problem

[kodiac]

Tractor JD 820, Bush Hog (I believe) Howse
Problem: Where the upper arm of the 3PH connects to the Bush Hog it is slotted rather than a single hole. When the implement is raised the PTO shaft to BH hits the top of the Bush Hog. This in turn puts most if not all of the BH weight on the tractor PTO shaft (doesn't seem right!) and if one goes through a dip while the shaft is turning it makes the "worse" sound as the shaft hits againist the BH deck. Any suggestions?

Thanks Dave

 

[art]

Shorten the upper link till it picks up level. Neither the tractor manufacturer nor the bush hog wanted it to be that way.

 

[patrickg]

You might want to consider putting large washers either side of the slotted hole where the top link pin goes. I had some problems with the pin turning sideways and forcing the "keeper into the slot on its side. Won't fix the problem you posted but Art already drove that nail really well.

I've had guys suggest the slot was a "BAD" idea but don't buy into that. It is there to allow you some latitude going over uneven terrain. Without it, things would get stressed a lot more. (No insult intended if all your land is like one large putting green.)

One of my recurring brush hog problems (beyond operator inadequacies) is that the pins for the lower attachment points on the 3PH keep losening up. Been thinking I might tack them a tad with the welder. One of the problems is that when I put a hefty (3/4 inch drive socket on BIG breaker bar) wrench on it, it is very hard to keep the pin part from turning and there isn't a good/easy way to hold it. Hole in pin is too small to accept a rod large enough to take the force and there isn't enough "shoulder" to get a good grip with a pipe wrench. Don't want to use a pipe wrench on the pin as it would mess it up and make sliding it in difficult and it is tough enough already.

Ideas? Weld it?

Patrick

 

[JimMc]

You might try a serrated lock washer on the pin side. Short of that I have put a few grains of sand between the pin and the hitch metal. Just something to give a little "bite". By the way, this is strictly backyard engineering. You know, the same kind that uses a screwdriver for a chisel in a pinch.

The professional solution is to use lift pins with a wide shoulder and serrations on the face of the shoulder and stover nuts.

 

[patrickg]

Jim, Thanks for the sand idea. I like solutions with "true grit". If that fails, I will either grind flats on the skinny little shoulders and try a wrench or just tack the shoulder down a bit with wire feed gun (a simple solution).

Thanks again,

Patrick

 

[BB_TX]

Art's advice is good. I have a Howse with the same slots that I run on a JD 950. If I raise it too high, the PTO shaft hits the deck. However, if the top link is adjusted correctly, there is no need to lift that high. It clears the ground well before it hits the shaft.

 

[OkieG]

re: Hole in pin is too small to accept a rod large enough to take the force.

Patrick, since you have a welder, make your own tool to hold the pin still while you tighten the nut with a wrench. What I am thinking of is welding a short piece of rod (or the shaft of a lynch pin, sans the metal ring) to the end of a heavier duty length of steel. The short rod (lynch pin) could be welded "in line" with the heavier material or at 90 degrees and will fit into the hole in the pin. As you tighten the nut, the heavy stuff won't bend and if the short rod is in the hole as far as it will go, it won't bend either. At least it will probably be sturdy enough to tighten the pin nut as tight as you need it.

OkieG

 

[beenthere]

You have a number of suggestions. I would shorten the top link just enough that the PTO drive shaft does not hit the deck when the arms are at their highest point. That will give you the best control of your rotary cutter over rough ground, and not damage the PTO drive shaft.

 

[kodiac]

Thanks for all the info!
And Patrick, since my wife is also INTO BUSH CUTTING, mind if I run this problem by her?

Hole in pin is too small to accept a rod large enough to take the force

 

[normde2001]

Patrick, I would wrap it liberally with masking tape, put "Locktite" on the threads, and go ahead and crank it down as tight as possible using the pipe wrench. Then "maul" a thread with a center punch, (that's an Army Small Arms Depot authorized repair). If you caused any burrs under the tape just file them down.....good to go.

 

[OkieG]

Beenthere,

Even with the brush hog adjusted properly, as you desrcibe, I noticed the plastic shroud on the pto drive shaft would be torn up after a session in the brush.

As a newbie, it took me a while to discover the problem occured when I had to back into brush to cut it. When the rear of the deck stops against thick weeds or brush, the front of the deck will rise as the tractor backs up. Eventually, the pto shaft shroud contacts the deck and gets torn up.

Obviously, it is my poor technique/slow reaction time that allows the problem to happen. Even duct tape and TRYing to be more careful hasn't eliminated the problem. Some of the brush I encounter is so thick I'm afraid I'll get stuck if I drive straight in.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Beenthere,

By the way, when the foliage is obviously going to cause a problem, I now disengage the pto before backing. It's the brush I don't expect will be a problem that bites me. I guess maybe the pto should be disengaged whenever I back up.

OkieG

 

[normde2001]

Okie, that should never happen if things are set up properly. Either the toplink is still too long or if the toplink hooks to a toggle link on the cutter, possibly it is mounted backwards. It should limit how far the cutter can droop in the back when lifted, to prevent the shaft from coming apart or hitting, as if it were attached to a chain.

 

[beenthere]

I can see from that picture that you are having a problem. When you back into a place like that, just lift the cutter up when you back in. If you can't get it up, then shorten the top link more. This is better than backing into brush with the PTO off, as it is a big load when trying to start it up with brush in it. Better to start it up with nothing in the cutter (IMO). Your technique will improve with practice.