Bush hog blades worn on back side.

[kthompson]

You need to match the blades for per spindle, not one new and one worn heavy to keep balance as much as you can.
We used to have mower the rear of blades were out before the front. Dealer said our sand, what sand? Turned out our dirt does have sand in it that normally only shows when dry. But cut the blades it did.

 

[BufordBoone]

Understand, Kthompson. That is what I planned to do. The new blades will go on the spindle that is directly behind the tractor. The worn blades will go on the offset spindle.

I decided to do it that way as the offset spindle blades seem to get more ground contact than the ones behind the tractor. Depending on the terrain, they can be higher or lower than the ones behind the tractor.

Once I get a new tractor and have top and tilt, making adjustments on the fly will be simple. Now, not so much.

 

[BufordBoone]

Changed the blades this weekend. Forgot to take photos but WOW they were in bad shape. One of them was worn so thin on the back side that it was curling over. Cutting edges were rounded and nicked.

Wife commented "It was cutting good before, wonder how much better it will cut now?"

I'll work on the slip clutch next. Loosened all nuts two turns and it wouldn't slip. Even tried cutting tall grass. Called Bush Hog and a technician told me to loosen all the nuts as much as I can without them coming off and try again. If that doesn't work, take it apart and clean the discs real good. However, if going to all the trouble to disassemble, probably should replace the fiber discs.

I've had great luck with Bush Hog technical support.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Changed the blades this weekend. Forgot to take photos but WOW they were in bad shape. One of them was worn so thin on the back side that it was curling over. Cutting edges were rounded and nicked.

Wife commented "It was cutting good before, wonder how much better it will cut now?"

I'll work on the slip clutch next. Loosened all nuts two turns and it wouldn't slip. Even tried cutting tall grass. Called Bush Hog and a technician told me to loosen all the nuts as much as I can without them coming off and try again. If that doesn't work, take it apart and clean the discs real good. However, if going to all the trouble to disassemble, probably should replace the fiber discs.

I've had great luck with Bush Hog technical support.

Just drop the running hog on a short stump.

 

[BufordBoone]

Tried that, or something similar, Spyderlk. Began to bog the tractor down, didn't slip so I lifted it off.

When I asked what to do, earlier, I had a number of similar responses, most included "It will slip". I kept wondering "What if it doesn't?"

Not willing to risk damaging my tractor PTO.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Tried that, or something similar, Spyderlk. Began to bog the tractor down, didn't slip so I lifted it off.

When I asked what to do, earlier, I had a number of similar responses, most included "It will slip". I kept wondering "What if it doesn't?"

Not willing to risk damaging my tractor PTO.

It has to be banging - - NOT a smooth heavy load. The slip clutch should not slip except when hitting big solid stuff. A short hidden stump is the most effective w/o damage to your new blade edges. I think if you just run it awhile loosened, and actually hit some stuff accidentally as one is apt to, it will break loose.

 

[BufordBoone]

As a follow-up, I remembered to take photos of the old blades this weekend. Though I had noticed a deterioration of the cut provided, I still thought it cut pretty well. It wasn't finish mower quality but was good enough that I used it around the house instead of investing in a ZT mower.

This kind of makes me think that sharpening blades is not as important as I would have imagined on a rotary cutter.

The backside blade wear clearly shows in one of the photos.

 

[WranglerX]

I usually equate wear on back side of blade to erosion from grass stems and dirt and gravel (gopher mounds) and occasional "baraaap" from disintegration of a rock (that floated up during winter), while mowing.... But then again it's on lighter blades for riding mowers, but don't see why same forces are not at work with bigger mowers...

Dale

 

[WranglerX]

Tried that, or something similar, Spyderlk. Began to bog the tractor down, didn't slip so I lifted it off.

When I asked what to do, earlier, I had a number of similar responses, most included "It will slip". I kept wondering "What if it doesn't?"

Not willing to risk damaging my tractor PTO.

IF it does not slip, you may need to disassemble clutch and free the plates ... Over time moisture will rust clutch surfaces together and it is no longer a clutch... Hoping to bang/break it free is lazy man's approach to avoid proper repair/maintain ....

Slipping a Slip Clutch - YouTube

 

[BufordBoone]

Thanks, DL. I got the slip clutch rebuilt and posted about it in another thread "Slip Clutch Won't Slip".

Basically followed your advice, above.