Bush Hog 286 splines still viable?

[RoyKing]

Like TMGT said file off the proud spots from peening when it was loose. Need some contact on top and bottom, tighten hammer some tighten again.

 

[RickB]

UYou need to have a gap at the bottom of the shaft, that’s is the way tapered splines work. Use the info already posted to get the castle nut as tight as possible, install the cotter pin and go use the cutter. Do not overthink this. It is not a precision instrument or brain surgery.

 

[DieselBound]

Rick, yeah, that's what I figure, but... I was just wanting to know what was "normal" as far as that gap goes (one could not see it at the bottom, but I'm figuring that the gap at the top would correspond the same). Maybe this thread can, eventually, vet this all out (and provide a reference point): I might know right away, or I may not know for some time (it took about 2 1/2 years for this to appear- in the future I'm going to be a bit more diligent a bout checking for play- I'd never had an issue with other mowers, though only 5-footers running off of smaller tractors).

The splines, other than a couple on the stump jumper that had their surfaces at the outer end superficially scuffed up by what I figure was hitting the castle nut?, don't look askew. I'm just a bit nervous after hearing other folks having messed up splines and requiring extensive repairs.

Am I right in thinking that the stump jumper will have wobble until it's firmly seated?

 

[RickB]

When the tapered shaft and hub are fully seated there will be no movement of the hub on the shaft and the stump jumper will turn without any appreciable axial runout.

 

[DieselBound]

So, if I get the right torque on it and it doesn't have any movement then it should be OK, yes? I seem to recall that I was able to take out the play before. Wondering why it let loose? Is it common for them to loosen up? (again, never experienced this before)

I'm still uncertain of the torque spec on this. Bush Hog just has general specs for bolts, no specifics for this nut. I asked the parts vendor and was told that he thought that it's a Grade 8: that would be 325 ft-lbs (based on 30mm wrench size).

 

[RickB]

I can’t say why it came loose, once in a while they will. Let that impact rattle on it, the vibration will help seat the taper. Run it and check for looseness after the first couple of uses and periodically thereafter.

 

[DieselBound]

My impact is rated up to about 1,300 ft-lbs. Any concerns that I could strip things?

I've been meaning to get something to set higher torque values and am thinking about getting a torque multiplier.

I did put anti-seize on the splines, in which case that should help them a bit. But nothing on the threads (and no plan to).

 

[RickB]

Use a little common sense, don’t tape the trigger down and go for coffee! Don’t waste your money on a torque multiplier, you aren’t going to strip the threads on the nut or shaft.

 

[DieselBound]

OK, Rick!

If I don't have a coffee break I'll keep that coffee for you if I don't strip this sucker