building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2

   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2 #1  

BHD

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
1,762
Location
easten Colorado
Tractor
JD 4020
building a wood post driver tractor mounted page one,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/289286-building-wood-post-driver-tractor.html

cylinder extension with mounts



checking out the measurements on the extension cylinder and figuring out the placement of the mast tube.



checking out the cylinder and mast tube with the stop welded on,



picture of the mount in the tube



test of mast in the extension tube, note the slot in the mast for the cylinders Hydraulic cylinder



mast welded to base,



the weight cylinder welded a larger fitting to it to help reduce restriction for dropping of the weight,



next pictures may be a few weeks as I need to order hoses and some fittings for hydraulics,

need to finish up the weight and the follower (rides on the post) and the support of the hydraulic valves,
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#2  
one other note: the stops and cylinders will be such that when closed they will not be bottomed out so the weight is not on the cylinder, so if the mast was dropped it would bottom out on the stop instead of the cylinders, (extension cylinder, and the weight cylinder) most likely I wil put a restrictor in the extension cylinder to help protect a drop on the mast.
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#3  
a few more pictures

the follower under construction. (yes the picture is up side down but the follower is in the position that it will be on the machine.



the weight, about 350 pounds.





the follower, weight, and arm



installing the extension cylinder and paint it as installing it,



putting extension on the mast.



valves and bracket with protection ears,



I added a control valve for limiting the speed retraction of extension, on the extension cylinder, on the tractor there is a similar valve on the input side.

the tractor has a power beyond block on it so I can access the hydraulics with out having to go through the valve, the system is a closed center hydraulic system on the tractor,



Nearly complete still needs the weight, follower, and rope. and a few small things (bolts need to be drilled and taped for grease zerks on the pulleys, and think I want to add two small guides on the arm. and need a pin and chain for the follower, so the follower can be pulled up by the weight,

 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2 #4  
Great progress, looks like you'll be done in no time!
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Completed driver





extended boom



tilt away from tractor,



tilt towards tractor



ready to drive



weight up



weight dropped,

 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I post a condensed version on another fourm, and I was asked a question, and this is that answer, but it may answer a few questions for you as well,

my normal design process, is to see what is out there, look at pictures and videos, see what features I think I need and what makes it work

many of my builds I have never been around a working machine,

on this I had originally considered a different tilt system, it would have been more complication and most likely weaker, and limited the extending mast idea,

I had actually bought or accumulated most of the materials when I saw the design, I went with my sliding one of the lower three point arms, for side tilt and the top link adjustable, (most top links are adjustable manually), and had considered using manual adjustments for the tilt sides to side and tilt back and forth, but got figuring if one was having to manually adjust, if I had hired help the chances of it being adjusted would most likely be minimal, especially if I was not helping, and at first I did not figure that it would not be much of an issue as most of my ground is what most would call flat, until I talked to friend who use one, and he made the statement, what ever you do get one that has a good tilt system,
so I altered my design and ordered two more valves and cylinders for the tilt system,

I used through bolt stacked valves, (so if I need to add to it I could, and I did, only losing a bolt kit, in the change,

in this process that helped as I did not have a pivot point that would interfere with the extending mast,

one of the problems one drivers that do not have extending masts is that taller posts still need a hole dug to get them to fit under the driver, so I made the unit so I could get in the shop, and under a few gates that have a wire over the top, and yet could easily drive a 10 foot tall post if wanted,

the weight is about 350 pounds, at one time it was a ripper shank for a old Cat dozer,

I made the cage around the post follower, to help keep ones hand off the impact area, I could see a absent minded moment or if two persons were working, how an accident, cold happen, thus the guard, on the follower.

I usably blend a number of ideas, for my final product, and some times it is drive by what I can find for materials to use,

in this build 60% or more was new, (I have found that getting what you need is many times better than trying to make some thing work just because you have it),

the Hydraulics were bought from surplus center, in Lincoln Nebraska,

the cost of the unit was.. guessing about $16 to $1700. new manufacture would have been $4500 to $7000 depending on manufacturer and features, and that is with out shipping,

About $225 for each hydraulic cylinder used, (valve hoses and cylinder and fitting), there were four cylinders total,
the steel was $600
EBay (pulleys, and nylon rope, and a few other parts) about $125

$900 hydraulics
$600 steel,
$125 other,
$1625 is a close guess,

on the shop, most all the equipment is old, and reasonable wore out,

98% of the welding was done on a old century welder with a external DC conversion unit, I used about 20 pounds od rod on the project, most was 7018, a few beads were done with my portable welder after assembly.

the lathe is a pre WW2, and the Bridgeport is probably the most expensive machine ad I payed about $2500, for it when I bought it, close to 1 years ago at least, it is well worn as well, but more than usable for my needs, (my opinion, if your going to get a mill get a full size machine), I considered the drill mills when I bough mine but glad I got what I got, when I did,

and I am basically self taught on the shop, work, besides some high school shop classes, 40+ years ago, most all has been by trial and error and books,

normally on my "Plans", just a basic over all dimensions are posted, and if there are critical dimensions there posted and then the drawings are usually drawn and reasonably proportional,

I had three basic measurements I need to work with,
One was the spread and height of a category 2 three point,
the second was 10' as that was length of tube I had for the mast,
and third was, the extension cylinder, I bought from surplus center, Diameter and length, (the size of tube it would fit into, and how much extension I could get and then how to make it work, from the height of the weight. and post follower gave me the length of weigh drop I cold get, then the arm to raise the weight was designed, then how much room did I have to make the arm work, the length of cylinder was chosen,

I was happy to find the cylinder I did for the extension, as it had a bottom poet and was mounted near the top, so the mast I made a plate that would let the cylinder go through and a top push plate, and welded the cylinder mount to the mast and then a extension, so if it bottomed out it would not leave the weight on the cylinder, and since that was all enclosed, it should be well protected,

on the extension it self it rides on the mast,
and the weight system is operated by a cylinder, single action, it dumps the oil out to drop, not really much more to tell, if you have any questions I will try to answer,
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#7  
one more addition I made what some call a "rock spike" I took a 2.5" steel square tube and took a 2" shaft and made a solid point on the end and then slipped another short tube over the top and doubled up the impact area,

do to the drouth we have been having the soil is very tight and hard, and in some area I do have lime rock under the surface,

I have driven close to 100 posts with it, so far, in soft and hard ground, I like the pointed driving posts, but many of the bundle I got were not very centered and it can walk a post off of center, and leave a post leaning a bit even tho it was all plumbed up to start with,

The only real problem was with the guard, and the jolting of the hammer bent up the brackets and it had to be removed, I have another plan for a guard, or at least a deterrent to place body parts in harms way, basically some bolt on fingers on the follower.

one thing I think would be nice, would be a side to side adjustment even just a few inches, to each side,

when putting in a fence and your trying to keep the post line straight, even a inch or two off does not look very good, and when you have 4.5" tube even if you have a mark it is hidden and it just works better in my opinion, to have it centered.

Highly recommended is some hearing protection,

even when neededing to drive the Rock spike, (the equivalent of driving two posts), I was averaging 10 post in two hours, completely set, and including travel time about 3/4 a mile at about 4 mph, rough ground and had the posts on the loader forks, (both out and in).
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2 #8  
Not sure how I missed this build, but I've been working on a similar driver (actually started it a couple years ago and have never finished it). Hopefully I can get back on it, maybe make a thread with some pics.

Mine is a little different mount, and built a little lighter, but the the overall design is similar. The one thing that I've been hung up on is the lifting mechanism. I was planning on using a system of pulleys to increase the speed of the weight vs the cylinder (to get full drop speed) but your system looks a lot simpler.

Few questions, what is the total travel of the weight, the stroke of the cylinder, and the length of the pivot arm? Do you use any friction reducing material between the weight and the beam? Closeup pics of your mounting on the weight to the beam?

Thanks for any info.
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I think I am telling you correctly, the main beam/tube is ten feet, the drop is about eight foot, max, and one need to watch and lower the top tube unless one wants to shear the bottom stop off,

but there is second tube inside, with a hydraulic cylinder, that can raise it about 60 inches, my idea and it works was to increases the drop distance and or if you had some taller than posts or some thing special,

the only thing to help is grease, and not a lot of it, and I used a plate on the tube and just made guide on the sane line on a log splitter, ram work on,

what I recall is the arm is about 4 foot, and the L shaped arm is I think 1 foot, and the cylinder. about 12 " stroke, single acting, the rope doubles the lift, welded on a larger fitting on the cylinder it was 1/4" and use a 1/2 so I would not neck it down any more, and it dumps fine and the weigh is near free fall,

the weight is about 350 pounds, the cylinder is a snow plow cylinder, but it is all most to small in lift, another 25 pounds and it would not have lifted it. it does fine tho,
 
   / building a wood post driver tractor mounted page 2 #10  
Thanks for the reply, I went back and looked at the pics and learned a lot. Mine is 10' also with about 8' drop, but I don't have the telescoping mast. I'm also using a 24" cylinder to raise it with a 4:1 ratio using pulleys and cable. I'm afraid my setup won't let the weight go fast enough (free fall). I guess I'll put it together and see. If it doesn't work mine would be easy to rig up with the swing arm setup. Mine uses a 500+ lb weight, so I might have to beef up the cylinder a bit.
 
 
Top