Building a Well House

[MillWeld]

I have volunteered to assess building a well house located on property my church owns. It will be made of brick to match the nearby house and be approximately 4 ft x 4 ft and with an access door. The brick will require a footing and I am drying to decide if the concrete pour should cover the entire 4 x 4 interior or just wide enough to support the bricks. If it covers the entire interior space the pour would be around pipes and wires which I think is problematic.

The next problem is the roof. It would be nice to have a slanted or peaked one but either would complicate maintenance if the pipe ever has to be pulled. The current pipe is PVC so it would not bend to allow it to pass the roof unless the roof panels are removeable. Also, an additional cover would be required under the roof to prevent blowing rain from entering and wetting the insulation. It would certainly be easier to have only a tight fitting flat sloped cover but it wouldn’t be as appealing because the area is quite rural.

Comments and ideas are welcome.

 

[Topzide]

If pouring a complete slab, use some insulation wrapped around the wire and pipes. That way, you will be able to replace without breaking up the whole slab. I would run the electrical through conduit. Power down and unhook and run through before pour. JM2C.

 

[LouNY]

I would leave the area inside the existing brick open, pour the slab for the rest of the pump house.
It desired I'd leave an easy to remove section in the roof directly over the well to aid in further maintenance work.
A rural area church I be tempted to have a little cupola maybe even a fake steeple that could be easily tilted over or removed.
I am going to guess the insulation you are worried about getting wet is be wrapped around the pipe to prevent freezing. I'd build a snug fitting foam box to fit around the piping but leave the exposed ground open inside the foam box to allow the ground warmth to keep the inside of the box warm.
If you pour a complete slab it will block most of the ground heat from helping protect the water pipe.

 

[Oaktree]

Definitely only put the poured footing for the blocks. Otherwise it'll be major grief when (not if) service is required.

As for a roof, I'd build a peak roof assembly that just sits on top of the block wall (not bolted down or anything). It should be heavy enough so as to not blow away, but could be removed and set to one side for maintenance. I would put vents on each end to prevent condensation on the underside.
My well is a shallow (dug) well, and that's what the well house I built is like. In a pinch one person can tip it over, but it's easier for two. It's not insulated. I live in northern N.H., and have never had a problem with it freezing.

If you pour a complete slab it will block most of the ground heat from helping protect the water pipe.

The OP is in North Carolina, can't imagine that freezing pipes is a big problem there.

 

[newbury]

The picture shows a "structure" about 20"x24" exterior. Expanding to 4'x4' will give more room but for what?
Could you get by with a structure about the same size as what is there but use Faux Brick Red Siding Panels? I'm thinking essentially the size of a doghouse.
If you go with the full 4x4 make sure the footings are well beyond frost line, if there is any.

 

[LouNY]

Definitely only put the poured footing for the blocks. Otherwise it'll be major grief when (not if) service is required.

As for a roof, I'd build a peak roof assembly that just sits on top of the block wall (not bolted down or anything). It should be heavy enough so as to not blow away, but could be removed and set to one side for maintenance. I would put vents on each end to prevent condensation on the underside.
My well is a shallow (dug) well, and that's what the well house I built is like. In a pinch one person can tip it over, but it's easier for two. It's not insulated. I live in northern N.H., and have never had a problem with it freezing.



The OP is in North Carolina, can't imagine that freezing pipes is a big problem there.

As I recall it can get to below freezing there at times, not often or real cold but who wants a frozen pipe.

 

[ksJoe]

I would put vents on each end to prevent condensation on the underside.

I would modify that slightly and solve two problems at once. Get a roof vent that has a small section of round duct. Install it directly over the well. Cut the duct, crimp the lower (roof) side so the upper (vent) will fit over it, and screw it back together like any duct joint.

Then if you ever need to pull the pump or pipe, just remove the scews and pop the vent off. No disruption to the roof!

 

[steve tym]

Don't put the well in the well house.

 

[MillWeld]

I will definitely pour concrete for the footing only. As for freezing - we do have that problem. Our record low is -9 but we'll probably never see that again. Good point about increasing the size. 4 x 4 is not big enough to get inside and work. It was just for appearance but that adds roof labor. I'm rethinking the whole thing. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[mikester]

Our local code is discouraging the use of well houses and well pits and are recommending properly capped well heads and ground slopes for sanitary reasons. Also helps prevent groundwater contamination from surface water.

We are in an area with 4-5 foot frost depth so well pits were always susceptible to freezing.