Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop

   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#171  
Have you tried used cooking oil in your heater or thought of trying it?

Yes, I've used some veggie oil. But I'm not really setup for veg oil. The filter that I'm using, is not really a good filter for filtering particles from the veg oil. Plus I don't/didn't plan on using veg oil. Used motor oil and hydraulic fluid is simple as I want to get (so to speak). I just don't have to have allot of money tied up in filters and having several 55 gallon barrels just for filtering the veg oil. The oil holding tank that I have mounted above my stove does all of the work (de-watering) that needs to be done and I have a filter that filters out any and all particles that might clog up the flow control valve that I use to meter/control the oil flow. I use gravity to de-water the oil since water is heavier than oil. After I use the stove, I always fill the tank back up. The next time I use the stove. The first thing I do is open the bottom valve on the tank and drain all of the water that has settled to the bottom of the holding tank. The filter that I have on the oil line filters out all of the particles. The pictures below are some older pictures. They will give you an idea of what I"m talking about. I guess I need to take some new pictures for an update. I might just do that here in a few hours. :eek:

As, a matter of fact. I not going to use the old pictures that I've already download to TBN. I've made several changes that I need to take some pictures of. I'll post back when I get the new pictures downloaded to TBN. :D
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#172  
Updated Pictures


 

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   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #173  
Cliff, I just got done reading all 18 pages of this thread. My wife went to bed hours ago and I have to wake up in 4 more hours to go to work, but it was well worth it.

I have been playing with forced air and trying to atomize the oil before it gets to the burner and this has got me really thinking. Some of the experiments I have tried so far are to place a series of screens in the down pipe after the oil tube ends. This would force the oil through the screens and break it up somewhat. It is a trick they used between carbs and manifolds in engines to get more hp and better fuel economy. I have not tried to ignite the cloud yet but I was getting a puff of oil out the end of the pipe when I tried this. I was thinking with your setup if the screen would atomize the oil a little more giving the posibility of producing less btu s but still burning efficiently.

My idea is to build a single barrel stove with the down pipe easily removeable, perhaps slip in from the top and lock in place, and having the tube like yours inside that can be pulled fairly easily so that when I run out of oil I can easily convert to wood. and then just as easily convert back to oil.

Also, would driling holes in the side of the burner tube allow the heat to radiate outward more getting the outside of the stove hotter?

You have a great gift and I thank you for sharing it with everybody for free.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #174  
Just got done reading through this thread and have enjoyed it all and have actually liked some of the ideas. I'll be adding them to my project eventually. I've actually used a method of feeding oil from the bottom and i'll tell you how i did it and how it did.
I started working on my oil burner last fall. What i had was an old pellet stove the previous home owner left in the garage when i bought our current house. I did use pellets for awhile but got sick of the hassel and actually having to buy a "fuel" to burn. So i started researching waste oil burning and eventually turned my old pellet stove into one. In the pictures, you'll notice i have an old gas tank for my oil resevoir which i currently use a syphoning method to supply the oil to my "oil carb". But when the tank is empty i plan on welding a threaded bung on the bottom so i can use gravity instead. (I also need to add a filter to the setup) I then wrapped my supply tubing around my flue to pre heat my oil before it goes to a ball valve on the side. From there it goes through a pipe, that used to house the pellet auger i gutted, into the stove. The supply line then threads onto my "oil carb".
On the other side of my stove is a induced fan that supplies air up through the bottom of the stove that once fed a pellet fire box....basically a box with holes in it to help burn the pellets cleaner using induced air. I removed that box and used tin with a 2" hole in it to cover the hole so i could narrow the air supply to a small 2" pipe. I feed my oil through a hole in the side of the 2" pipe and then up onto an upside down stainless sink strainer/plug. The strainer wedges perfectly onto the 2" pipe in which i also thread a nut onto the supply tube to help hold the strainer on. To help start the fire and catch any excess oil i used a 4" ducting cap that i cut slightly smaller than size of the strainer and then pushed it down ontop of the strainer. This method has worked great for me and has burned quite clean. I do get clinkers and once in awhile some soot. Which is usually due to my air/oil ratio being a little off (i also added a damper on my exhaust flue to help hold more heat in which has helped create a cleaner burn). The clinkers are easy to clean, as i just pull the cap off and dump them out.
To start the fire i put a lil gas in the ring edge of the cap. Light it and turn on my oil about 1/4 notch (no air yet). When the oil starts to boil on the strainer, i'll cut my exhaust damper to about 2/3 close and i'll kick on my induced fan. I plan on adding a dimmer switch to help control the fan. Right now it has a plate over the opening, which isn't very precise. After about 30 min. and a few adjustments, my stove will generally run all day with no problem. Once in a while i'll get a plug at my ball valve or the fire will stuff itself out for some reason and fill my stove with oil.
One thing i found that is very noteworthy was that i couldn't get a very consistant clean burn at first, nor could i keep it "cadillac-ing" all the time. Either it would get too hot or snuff itself out. What i fould was that i needed some backpressure on my "oil carb". I had a left over proto-type box style carb i had made out of tin that i placed over the 4" cap, opening down. It didn't cover it completely, which is what i wanted, It held just enough flame in, to increase the internal temp and a "box pressure". that it would burn alot cleaner and alot more consistant, whether i had an oil or air swing or not. These are all the pics i have now. I'll post some more when i get 'em.
 

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   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #175  
Hey Cliff, how did you rig that plastic bottle so it screws into the ball valve?
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #177  
Just got done reading through this thread and have enjoyed it all and have actually liked some of the ideas. I'll be adding them to my project eventually. I've actually used a method of feeding oil from the bottom and i'll tell you how i did it and how it did.
I started working on my oil burner last fall. What i had was an old pellet stove the previous home owner left in the garage when i bought our current house. I did use pellets for awhile but got sick of the hassel and actually having to buy a "fuel" to burn. So i started researching waste oil burning and eventually turned my old pellet stove into one. In the pictures, you'll notice i have an old gas tank for my oil resevoir which i currently use a syphoning method to supply the oil to my "oil carb". But when the tank is empty i plan on welding a threaded bung on the bottom so i can use gravity instead. (I also need to add a filter to the setup) I then wrapped my supply tubing around my flue to pre heat my oil before it goes to a ball valve on the side. From there it goes through a pipe, that used to house the pellet auger i gutted, into the stove. The supply line then threads onto my "oil carb".
On the other side of my stove is a induced fan that supplies air up through the bottom of the stove that once fed a pellet fire box....basically a box with holes in it to help burn the pellets cleaner using induced air. I removed that box and used tin with a 2" hole in it to cover the hole so i could narrow the air supply to a small 2" pipe. I feed my oil through a hole in the side of the 2" pipe and then up onto an upside down stainless sink strainer/plug. The strainer wedges perfectly onto the 2" pipe in which i also thread a nut onto the supply tube to help hold the strainer on. To help start the fire and catch any excess oil i used a 4" ducting cap that i cut slightly smaller than size of the strainer and then pushed it down ontop of the strainer. This method has worked great for me and has burned quite clean. I do get clinkers and once in awhile some soot. Which is usually due to my air/oil ratio being a little off (i also added a damper on my exhaust flue to help hold more heat in which has helped create a cleaner burn). The clinkers are easy to clean, as i just pull the cap off and dump them out.
To start the fire i put a lil gas in the ring edge of the cap. Light it and turn on my oil about 1/4 notch (no air yet). When the oil starts to boil on the strainer, i'll cut my exhaust damper to about 2/3 close and i'll kick on my induced fan. I plan on adding a dimmer switch to help control the fan. Right now it has a plate over the opening, which isn't very precise. After about 30 min. and a few adjustments, my stove will generally run all day with no problem. Once in a while i'll get a plug at my ball valve or the fire will stuff itself out for some reason and fill my stove with oil.
One thing i found that is very noteworthy was that i couldn't get a very consistant clean burn at first, nor could i keep it "cadillac-ing" all the time. Either it would get too hot or snuff itself out. What i fould was that i needed some backpressure on my "oil carb". I had a left over proto-type box style carb i had made out of tin that i placed over the 4" cap, opening down. It didn't cover it completely, which is what i wanted, It held just enough flame in, to increase the internal temp and a "box pressure". that it would burn alot cleaner and alot more consistant, whether i had an oil or air swing or not. These are all the pics i have now. I'll post some more when i get 'em.

When I was in the military we used oil burning pot belly stoves to heat tents.--A mixture of gas / diesel. I know a man that picks up old oil just to heat with in his home. Many people still use oil.
I have been thinking of some type of oil heater in my shop, but I have natural gas I can use. My water heater is in my shop in a room by itself where I installed a heater for folks to hang out from the cold, since smoking is not allowed in my home.
Many folks down here place their water heaters outside of the home due to the danger involved in operating them. My water heater and furnace is gas--it was that way when I bought the house so I left it as is, just takes a bit for the hot water to flow some 15-20 feet.:)
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #178  
I thought I'd cut a fat cat awhile back and burn some used engine oil in my wood stove. With a good hot bed of coals going, I mixed about a pint with about a gallon of saw dust from the table saw and rolled it up in a brown paper grocery bag and placed it on the coals. What a stinking mess from the stack outdoors. I would only do that again if I were about to freeze to death.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #179  
I thought I'd cut a fat cat awhile back and burn some used engine oil in my wood stove. With a good hot bed of coals going, I mixed about a pint with about a gallon of saw dust from the table saw and rolled it up in a brown paper grocery bag and placed it on the coals. What a stinking mess from the stack outdoors. I would only do that again if I were about to freeze to death.

You have to have a really hot burn to burn cleanly. My burner doesn't smoke at all once it gets up to temp. I do get a wiff of car exhaust once in a while outside if the wind is right.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#180  
Hey Cliff, how did you rig that plastic bottle so it screws into the ball valve?
Train between the ball valve and the jug is a pipe that is two inch's long. That pipe is threaded on both ends. One end is screwed into the ball valve and since the other end is threaded. I take that jug and threaded it onto that pipe. The ID of the jug opening and the OD of the threads on that pipe is really close. I've had that jug filled pretty full before and it's held up just fine, if your wondering about weight. That jug is a windshield wiper fluid jug from a automotive parts house like Autozone sells.

I didn't even know that people had replied to this thread. Guess I need to get on TBN more often.
 

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