FairfaxStu
Gold Member
Um not sure I follow you. Are you referring to repeat business and referrals? If so, I could not agree more.
-Stu
Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
- Thread starter pclausen
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Um not sure I follow you. Are you referring to repeat business and referrals? If so, I could not agree more.
-Stu
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Well, the company doing mom's house actually got 20 houses under construction right now the owner told me when we met yesterday. The super on my job is one of 4 I think (supposedly the best, which I would tend to agree with). Still, having to coordinate material delivery, subs, and ensure good quality work is going to be challenging with 8 houses going all at once. He work 12 hours days, 7 days a week, and already has 12 speeding tickets in 2013 from rushing from job to job. lol
So on to today's pictures!
Day 94
At 7:45 this morning, the patio had been poured. Instead of the usual grey color, this cement had a distinct light brown base color to it. And yes, it is poured directly against the hardie plank. Is that a problem. I mean hardie is mostly cement anyway, right?
Here are the stamps they use to put in the pattern
Before stamping, they throw this colored powder onto the wet cement. In this case, a clay red color.
The crew than sat in their truck for about 3 hours until the cement had hardened just the right amount. Then they brought out the stamp pieces and went to town
After they were done stamping in the pattern, it looked like this
Profile shot showing all the "character"
Tomorrow they will hose it all down, which will reveal a distinct 2 color look, and once that dries, they will seal it, which will really bring out the contrast.
About the time those guys were done with the patio, the track hoe showed up
First thing he did was dig out for the 1000 gallon septic tank
Next he trenched for the main distribution line
Then the 1st drain line. They use a 12' 2x4 inside the drain pipe to keep it level as they backfill the gravel
Further down on the same drain line. You can see the spacers they put in to ensure levelness.
View of the whole septic drain field area. There will be 5 drain lines, each 85' long. It is sized for a 3 bathroom / 3 bedroom house, given the local soil conditions
While the operator waited for the trackhoe to show up, he did more final grading all around the house
I managed to get most of the remaining cut trees cut skidded and stacked
I decided to go down in the back corner and look at the situation there. Found another leaner from the "loggers" that were there Saturday
I guess I'll deal with that one tomorrow.
I did discover that I'll have a skidding path that goes not go over the drain field (it ends at the yellow flags)
View from back of property
Nobody was working on stuff inside the house today, but since we have been talking about T&G lately, I figured I'd take some better pictures of that. They are indeed cutting the joints at what appear to be about a 15 degree angle!
Another view
This looks like marks form machining and handling. Those clearly will need to be sanded out before the finish goes on. As was mentioned, we are going to clear coat instead of staining them, so hopefully any sanding that is done will not be an issue
Yet another angle
Someone mentioned the doorway to the right of the main entrance door. It looks like the inner 2x4 did not line up perfectly with the outer one, and the adhesive made the gap even bigger. Not sure this will be an issue once the door jab goes on?
Finally, I did walk around the house, and other than those 2 sliders with the bow in them, I found a slight bow along the left edge of this window in the office. I had already pointed it out to the super from the inside, so this is already on the punch list
So on to today's pictures!
Day 94
At 7:45 this morning, the patio had been poured. Instead of the usual grey color, this cement had a distinct light brown base color to it. And yes, it is poured directly against the hardie plank. Is that a problem. I mean hardie is mostly cement anyway, right?
Here are the stamps they use to put in the pattern
Before stamping, they throw this colored powder onto the wet cement. In this case, a clay red color.
The crew than sat in their truck for about 3 hours until the cement had hardened just the right amount. Then they brought out the stamp pieces and went to town
After they were done stamping in the pattern, it looked like this
Profile shot showing all the "character"
Tomorrow they will hose it all down, which will reveal a distinct 2 color look, and once that dries, they will seal it, which will really bring out the contrast.
About the time those guys were done with the patio, the track hoe showed up
First thing he did was dig out for the 1000 gallon septic tank
Next he trenched for the main distribution line
Then the 1st drain line. They use a 12' 2x4 inside the drain pipe to keep it level as they backfill the gravel
Further down on the same drain line. You can see the spacers they put in to ensure levelness.
View of the whole septic drain field area. There will be 5 drain lines, each 85' long. It is sized for a 3 bathroom / 3 bedroom house, given the local soil conditions
While the operator waited for the trackhoe to show up, he did more final grading all around the house
I managed to get most of the remaining cut trees cut skidded and stacked
I decided to go down in the back corner and look at the situation there. Found another leaner from the "loggers" that were there Saturday
I guess I'll deal with that one tomorrow.
I did discover that I'll have a skidding path that goes not go over the drain field (it ends at the yellow flags)
View from back of property
Nobody was working on stuff inside the house today, but since we have been talking about T&G lately, I figured I'd take some better pictures of that. They are indeed cutting the joints at what appear to be about a 15 degree angle!
Another view
This looks like marks form machining and handling. Those clearly will need to be sanded out before the finish goes on. As was mentioned, we are going to clear coat instead of staining them, so hopefully any sanding that is done will not be an issue
Yet another angle
Someone mentioned the doorway to the right of the main entrance door. It looks like the inner 2x4 did not line up perfectly with the outer one, and the adhesive made the gap even bigger. Not sure this will be an issue once the door jab goes on?
Finally, I did walk around the house, and other than those 2 sliders with the bow in them, I found a slight bow along the left edge of this window in the office. I had already pointed it out to the super from the inside, so this is already on the punch list
Originally Posted by pacerron
Different species of wood, different aging results when unfinished.. Different price as well.
Sixdogs,
I don't have wood ceilings.
Ron
Different species of wood, different aging results when unfinished.. Different price as well.
Sixdogs,
I don't have wood ceilings.
Ron
J F
Veteran Member
:laughing: Yeah, we're all off in the twilight zone now. :laughing:
As for the ceiling marks Pete, hopefully that's a sign that they planned to sand, all along. Ya never know. :thumbsup:
Great to see the other work.
As for the ceiling marks Pete, hopefully that's a sign that they planned to sand, all along. Ya never know. :thumbsup:
Great to see the other work.
J F
Veteran Member
Peter,
Since that piece has not been surrounded by others yet, I would suggest you get there early in the morning and have them take it down. It looks like an open knot next to the machine marks as well. Those marks can be hard to get out without cupping. They can cut that off along with the open knot and still use the long piece there or somewhere else.
The glue on the back will come off if need be but they can re-glue in a different wiggle and it probably will be fine w/o.
They should have done this on there own before installing. All open knots should be cut out and the rest be checked for tightness before installing. That's another reason to sand while the boards are on the ground. You don't want the ceiling to look like a barn.
Ron
Since that piece has not been surrounded by others yet, I would suggest you get there early in the morning and have them take it down. It looks like an open knot next to the machine marks as well. Those marks can be hard to get out without cupping. They can cut that off along with the open knot and still use the long piece there or somewhere else.
The glue on the back will come off if need be but they can re-glue in a different wiggle and it probably will be fine w/o.
They should have done this on there own before installing. All open knots should be cut out and the rest be checked for tightness before installing. That's another reason to sand while the boards are on the ground. You don't want the ceiling to look like a barn.
Ron
At 7:45 this morning, the patio had been poured. Instead of the usual grey color, this cement had a distinct light brown base color to it. And yes, it is poured directly against the hardie plank. Is that a problem. I mean hardie is mostly cement anyway, right?
Peter,
I suggest you read the 4 page pdf instruction on hardie plank that I posted back when we asked about how they flashed the deck from the siding.
It specifically covers what happens to hardie plank that is soaked with water from being too close to the ground or not flashed properly and the distance
of free air space from the bottom edge required. Your stamped patio is hopefully sloped away from the house, but that still does not guarantee that there won't be puddling or low spots up next to the house in a driving rain.
I notice your septic tank is right beyond the rear deck and it looks like a single pipe to the field which branches to 5 runs.
Does your tank require an electric motor aireator with a stink pipe vent that stick up above?
Hope not.
Ron
Peter,
I suggest you read the 4 page pdf instruction on hardie plank that I posted back when we asked about how they flashed the deck from the siding.
It specifically covers what happens to hardie plank that is soaked with water from being too close to the ground or not flashed properly and the distance
of free air space from the bottom edge required. Your stamped patio is hopefully sloped away from the house, but that still does not guarantee that there won't be puddling or low spots up next to the house in a driving rain.
I notice your septic tank is right beyond the rear deck and it looks like a single pipe to the field which branches to 5 runs.
Does your tank require an electric motor aireator with a stink pipe vent that stick up above?
Hope not.
Ron
aczlan
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davedj1
Veteran Member
Yes it will be a major problem! Hardie can not take any long term moisture. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, just lending some experience.
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS:
• HardiePlank® lap siding can be installed over braced wood or steel studs spaced a maximum of 24" o.c. or directly to minimum 7/16" thick OSB
sheathing. See General Fastening Requirements. Irregularities in framing and sheathing can mirror through the finished application.
• Information on installing James Hardie products over foam can be located in JH Tech Bulletin 19 at www. jamehardie.com
• A water-resistive barrier is required in accordance with local building code requirements. The water-resistive barrier must be appropriately installed with penetration and
junction flashing in accordance with local building code requirements. James Hardie will assume no responsibility for water infiltration. James Hardie does manufacture
HardieWrap® Weather Barrier, a non-woven non-perforated housewrap¹, which complies with building code requirements.
• When installing James Hardie products all clearance details in figs. 3,4,5,6,7,8,& 9
must be followed.
• Adjacent finished grade must slope away from the building in accordance with local
building codes - typically a minimum of 6" in the first 10'.
• Do not use HardiePlank lap siding in Fascia or Trim applications.
• Do not install James Hardie products, such that they may remain in contact with standing water.
• HardiePlank lap siding may be installed on flat vertical wall applications only.
• DO NOT use stain on James Hardie® products.
• For larger projects, including commercial and multi-family projects, where the span of the wall
is significant in length, the designer and/or architect should take into consideration the
coefficient of thermal expansion and moisture movement of the product in their design. These
values can be found in the Technical Bulletin “Expansion Characteristics of James Hardie®
Siding Products” at James Hardie: World Leader in Fiber Cement Siding and Backerboard.