Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,381  
Agreed. this is not finish work, it's framing style finish work, and as Ron says, they don't seem to have the direction to do this right, and its going to be a lot of work and materials to make it right.

The end of the job is so critical, and when the contractor is "moving on" is why most builders have a finish guy(s) do the final work and punch list.

Carl
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,382  
:( I hate to agree here, Peter.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,383  
AS I indicated before, the end grain should never be exposed. Whether it is wood trim with a recess or MDF without, the fix is the same.

I didn't do well with my sketch, but you can see how it is covered with face grain.

I sure would not let these guys install your custom cabinets. The cabinet maker should be the one to do it in the first place.
His back edges that go against the walls will be straight and at 90 degrees to the bottom. The walls may not be at 90 degrees to the floor and/or may have humps in them at mud seams. A cabinetmaker will scribe the profile of the wall onto the back of the cabinet edge and carefully belt sand the cabinet wood to fit flush while maintaining a level top.
Your contractor guys will probably leave an uneven gap or try to slap some molding on to cover it.
All these components need to be done right as they go. The countertop folks expect a level top and if your top is real granite it will probably not have an overhang double edge to hide shims.
Frying eggs on an unlevel cook top is a pita..
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,384  
:( I hate to agree here, Peter.

Jay,
I saw your comments on cabinets on the other thread and agree with you completely.
It's time for you to pop in here and share some of your experience as a cabinetmaker with
Peter so he has some ammunition to direct the contractor ahead of time if his boys are doing
the install. ( let's hope not )
They have already slipped the done date by a couple weeks. Everybody should slow down
and do this final part right, even if it takes another month or more.
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,385  
Thanks, Ron, not going to do it though. I don't mind sharing "my opinions" at times, but I'll leave it at that.

We're all internet gods/heros, it's way, way too easy to criticize.

Especially from a computer monitor.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,386  
Thanks, Ron, not going to do it though. I don't mind sharing "my opinions" at times, but I'll leave it at that.

We're all internet gods/heros, it's way, way too easy to criticize.

Especially from a computer monitor.

Hmmm,
I think I get your hint.
Better let his friend Stu lead the wolf pack.
Thanks,
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,387  
As far as the overall schedule, the original target completion day was May 1st, which is a week and a half away. Given various weather related and other communication misunderstandings along the way, the target date has been pushed back to mid May, likely sometime during the week of May 13th.

As I recall, your Mom is renting her old house back from the new owners. Since the completion date has slipped, will she move in with you for the 2 - 4 weeks until the house is completed, or will she rent for another month?

Given the weather and various change orders that have occurred during construction, a 2 - 4 week slip in the schedule seems reasonable to me, although it is frustrating.

Day 90

I took some pics this morning of the trim work that was done yesterday.

This is how they fixed the downspouts. Not sure if this is supposed to be the permanent solution or not...

day90-13.jpg


day90-14.jpg


Moving on to the logging activities. Here's a shot from this morning showing some of the logs I pulled out yesterday. The "loggers" did not show up at all today as planned. They were supposed to be here at 8:30.

I suppose as long as the drain lines are down at least 3 feet and they use gravel instead of peanuts, I can run my 11,000 lbs tractor over it once they are done, maybe?

The downspouts will work; but that is pure slop work not to use the adapters meant for the job that are readily available.

That really sucks that the loggers left you high and dry.

I wouldn't drive that heavy a tractor over a fresh septic system installation. Let the loggers do the tree clearing, and if they frak up, fixing the system is on their/builder's dime. If you screw up the system and possibly damage your tractor in the process, it's all on your dime.

As for the trim, I like clean modern lines; but that trim is looking like something cheap that framing carpenters slapped up. I seem to recall the builder told you his framing crew was going to do the finish carpentry work. Am I correct? If so, they are off to a crappy start with simple window trim. They are relying on caulk to fill the gaps, and that MDF will soak up paint like a sponge on the end grain, and still look fuzzy. If your Mom wants to keep the trim simple, and butt joints are all the trim crew can handle, then another way to handle the corners is to use rosettes on each corner. But instead of a fancy rosette being cut into the wood, a simple 1/4 sphere dome could take the place of the rosette. Rosettes are readily available at Home Depot and Lowe's, along with Rockler and Woodcraft I believe.

Unfortunately the builder's subs are getting sloppy as completion of the house nears and they (builder and subs) are itching to move onto the next house. At least they appear to have the major structural portions done right, which is the most important part of the build.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#1,388  
Appreciate the feedback. I have taken all the trim related comments and sent them to the builder and requested a meeting. I also told him I'm not going to agree to any more draft payments until all the outstanding concerns are addressed.

After sleeping on it, I agree that I should not drive over the drain field once completed, even if it is down 3ft. I'm going to see if I can catch the machine operator this morning, to see if he can pull the trees down with the dozer before he starts on the drain field. Alternatively, since I believe he's bringing back the big trackhoe for the drain field (since the trenches have to be 3ft wide), maybe he can just push the trees down with it. This is the same guy that cleared out all the pines originally, sumps and all.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,389  
Appreciate the feedback. I have taken all the trim related comments and sent them to the builder and requested a meeting. I also told him I'm not going to agree to any more draft payments until all the outstanding concerns are addressed.

After sleeping on it, I agree that I should not drive over the drain field once completed, even if it is down 3ft. I'm going to see if I can catch the machine operator this morning, to see if he can pull the trees down with the dozer before he starts on the drain field. Alternatively, since I believe he's bringing back the big trackhoe for the drain field (since the trenches have to be 3ft wide), maybe he can just push the trees down with it. This is the same guy that cleared out all the pines originally, sumps and all.

Peter,
Good for you, it's only business. :thumbsup:

A comment on the front door. Be sure they buy some foam cans and seal well around the inside of the door with it then push a little fiberglass in the void between the foam and the surface. Don't pack it in, just loose like in a bat. This is the reason the door should have been installed before insulation and wallboard went up. Big cold air entrance under the trim if it isn't done properly.

On a good note, it looks like the electrician did a good job of arranging the wires going into the panel. I'd like to see a shot with the front of the panel off now. That's where some are neat and others really get sloppy with either too much or not enough wire going to the breakers. You should also look for a somewhat balanced load on the bars. 110v doesn't matter, but the 220V should be balanced somewhat, even though most things don't run at the same time. In other words all the 220v breakers should not be on one side but they should be near the top.

When you get further along, I'll tell you how to take some shots of the house so you can view it in 3D on your monitor, in full color, without wearing any goofy glasses.
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,390  
On a good note, it looks like the electrician did a good job of arranging the wires going into the panel. I'd like to see a shot with the front of the panel off now. That's where some are neat and others really get sloppy with either too much or not enough wire going to the breakers. You should also look for a somewhat balanced load on the bars. 110v doesn't matter, but the 220V should be balanced somewhat, even though most things don't run at the same time. In other words all the 220v breakers should not be on one side but they should be near the top.
I agree that a neat panel is the sign of an electrician who is at least trying to do a good job, but are you sure about the whole balancing 220v breakers comment? In the US, 220v by definition pulls off of BOTH bars, not just one, so it is ALWAYS balanced. Its the 110v loads that you have to balance between the two bus bars. The bars alternate, so (assuming that odd numbers are on the left and evens on the right) breakers 1 and 2 are on bar 1, breakers 3 and 4 are on bar 2 and breakers 5 and 6 are on bar 1, etc,etc.
Here is a picture of a small panel showing this:
garage_during-panel-med.jpg

Aaron Z
 

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