Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake)

   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #1  

texasranger556

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Messages
778
Location
Maryland
Tractor
JD 4400
One of the projects on my (very long) list is a 3 point power rake for behind my JD 4400. Reasonably priced used ones are few and far between, and anything less than $2k looks like it would take a fair bit of work to make usable again...missing guards, missing teeth, trashed bearings, etc. New is out of the question, I just can't see how these things sell for $7000. My local rental yard hasn't heard of one. Might be able to find one at a dealer farther away, but I generally don't like renting anyway. My planned use include re-doing our 1 acre yard that has lots of dips and bumps that need to be leveled out. Lots of roots, but no rocks. We also live along a 1/4 mile private gravel drive that I would love to power rake out the pot holes rather than throwing several tons of crusher run at it each year.

I have a 5' chunk of 6" round steel which seems perfect for the drum (attached). Not sure the thickness since it has ends on it, but guessing about 250 lbs. Question is what to use for teeth. Commercial rakes use carbide, but with ~150 teeth at $10/per that is a bit too expensive and I only plan to use this thing about 10 hours per year, probably less.

Alternate ideas:
1) Grade 8 bolts. Weld 1/2" nuts to the drum, then thread in 1/2" bolts with lock washers or a second nut to take up any gap. The bolt length would be between 3/4-1". The head of the bolt would take most of the wear and could be unscrewed and replaced if necessary. Cost through mcmaster carr is $90 for 150 bolts plus $25 for nuts. Moving up to 5/8" is $135 and $50 for bolts and nuts.
2) Hand cut steel teeth. I have some old cutting edge that I could plasma cut into teeth and weld on. Probably only enough for 50-60 teeth so would have to buy additional material. Perhaps $200 for material, plus plasma consumables for cutting it to size.
3) Buy laser or plasma cut teeth. I don't know what this would cost and what type of material to ask for. Saves the tedious task of cutting the teeth by hand, but it would likely cost at least triple the other options.

I'm leaning toward option 1 because it is the cheapest and fairly simple. Question is how long would they last before needing replaced? Would I have to worry about the bolts shearing off? My intuition is the welds would likely break first.

IMG_20170218_150328_small.jpg
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #2  
I like the nuts and bolts idea particularly for the ease of replacement. Could try different types of bolt heads such as hex, carriage, plow etc over time to see what wears best and most effective.
Drilling and tapping the location for each bolt, albeit time consuming, would act as a locator for holding the nut while welding as well as additional support for the bolt when assembled.
I would think that a grade 8 (or equivalent) bolt would have decent wear resistance for the price compared to carbide. One issue might be trash hanging up on the bolt heads.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #3  
You never said how thick the pipe was. When I got my Harley Pro 8, the bottom roller was bent among other problems. Friends straightened it in a large lathe with the help of a specially made very heavy collar, that I still have in case it happens again. My point is, that the rake can catch on stumps and things, so that roller had better be pretty heavy.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #4  
Build the power rake for the lawn, but it is not made to fix gravel driveways... If you have already thrown tons of stone down, you need to redistribute and compact it correctly. That's for another thread (or read the threads on building roads).

Looking forward to the build...

After buying a Harley rake, it's the ONLY thing I use on my gravel driveway now for normal maintenance. It does a beautiful job.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #5  
After buying a Harley rake, it's the ONLY thing I use on my gravel driveway now for normal maintenance. It does a beautiful job.
I learned something new... Doesn't the Harley Rake throw rocks all over the place??? Got any before/after photos of your driveway?
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake)
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I learned something new... Doesn't the Harley Rake throw rocks all over the place??? Got any before/after photos of your driveway?
YouTube has several videos of Harley rakes grading driveways. It looks amazing how well it works.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake)
  • Thread Starter
#7  
You never said how thick the pipe was. When I got my Harley Pro 8, the bottom roller was bent among other problems. Friends straightened it in a large lathe with the help of a specially made very heavy collar, that I still have in case it happens again. My point is, that the rake can catch on stumps and things, so that roller had better be pretty heavy.
I'm guessing it's about 1" thick. I can barely lift it by bear hugging it, so if you punch in 6.5" OD with 1" wall it works out to 50 lbs per foot which seems about right. If this thing bends I can only imagine what my tractor would look like.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #8  
I have never liked using a power rake for fixing potholes. It seems to me the rake will just rake lose rock into the pothole and the rock never seems to bind to the roadbed. A few trips thru the pot holes with a vehicle and all that loose rock is beat out and the pot holes reappear. I have taken the time to rake and smooth the holes down to a grade below hard pan and then re-smooth it out with the rake, but it just seems a scrape blade will do the work much faster and easier, then take the rake to dress everything and the work will last longer.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #9  
Compare the nut and bolt prices at Rural King or TSC if you have them close by. Use their scales to see how many are in a pound, and figure out your cost. Grade 8 is Grade 8, and their bulk pricing might save you some money.
 
   / Building a Power Rake (Harley Rake) #10  
The nice thing about my Harley rake is that it has S tines that stir up the roadbed more then one might imagine so you don't have this issue of just a bit of aggregate filling the holes.

Why people drive in potholes is beyond me anyway.

The Harley is NOT the best tool for the driveway in my opinion.

I have the two rollers with the lower one having bars, not nibs. The rake often leaves a washboard effect. Sometimes I will drag the rake unpowered to undo this.

I have no good way of tilting the rake. I have considered doing something to the trailing wheel assembly to accomplish tilt.

In general, if your driveway was a total disaster, I could repair it quickly with the rake. To get it picture perfect, is not so easy.
 

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