Building a 3320

[RollTideRam]

I am ready to move up from my 2520. I have been building 3320's on the Deere website for a week now. I have a few questions about some of the options.
I know I want R4's, but which ones? I like the 6 plies, but wonder if the bigger ones will ride better. Would like to stay around 60" wide so my current implement will still cover my tracks.
I want to get the factory installed lines on the loader for my grapple, but am not sure where they connect on the tractor. I'm getting the rear scv but want to transfer my Fasse diverter from the 2520 to the 3320 for the grapple.
I plan to install a "Carter" hydraulic toplink and use the rear scv for that.
I also want front a rear worklights. I know Deere says I can't have both, Should I order fronts, and install the rears myself?
I know I'm ordering E-hydro, cruise, air seat, 300cx, fancy grill guard, 61" HD bucket toothbar. I already have a set of Pats easy change, any have the telescoping arms?
Any other suggestions? Thanks, JC

 

[orlo]

Hi:

Just recently traded in my 3320 (open) for a 3720 cab. Not sure about the tires. I had the big R4's Rode ok, but they all seem pretty stiff.

The lines for the loader go to the rear - where the 3rd SCV outlets are. The 61" HD bucket is the one to go for. The air seat is a dynamite option. didn't have it on my 3320, have it on my 3720 and it's great. Get the automotive cruise as the std cruise isn't that great.

Get power to the rear. That would be better to hook up your valve to rather than the 3rd SCV.

I didn't have em on my 3320, but I got the electric diverter valves on my 3720 - Pricey, but nice. Effectively gives me control of 4 circuits from the loader joystick - Very nice.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

So I have a 3320 with the smaller R4 6plys. They run plenty smooth for me. I doubt I will ever change them. I have the 3rd valve and the loader lines (that I installed on my 300X myself). They are very nice for use on the front blade I bought from John, a member here on tbn. I do not have any other add on valves but the third one is handy for the 7-iron 72" MMM I use.

I added my own lights and extra switches (independednt control of front and rear lights) on the control panel myself. I put in a relay system for the lights - some would say overkill but it works great for me and no worries on drawing more amps than I should from any of the wiring. I also added into the relayed circuit a 12V cig receptical on the rear that powers my Fimco sprayer. Works great and is all controllable from the control panel on the right.

I want to add in the air ride suspension - maybe for Christmas to myself.

Get the cruis upgrade - it is super nice and the best $80 to spend on the tractor!!!

3rd valve is $200 and POwer Beyond is another $200 - may be worth it for you to get both. Add your valve to power and have 5 seat controllable circuits for about $400.

 

[DrainPondDesign]

If I had to do it over I'd get the skidsteer type quick attach bucket so I could mount forks & a tree spade on the loader arms.

The cab model runs lots of electrical equipment including front & rear work lights so maybe you could order the cab model alternator?

 

[kennyd]

If I had to do it over I'd get the skidsteer type quick attach bucket so I could mount forks & a tree spade on the loader arms.

You can do that with the JD QA system

 

[McRancher]

You might want to consider the optional mid pto. Even if you have no plans for it now, you might in a year or two, and I think it's cheaper to do up front. I remember looking at the specs between the 6 ply R4's and the larger tire, and I seem to remember that the smaller tire had the larger weight capacity. I don't remember the difference.

Sounds like you are putting together a very nice tractor. I wish I had gotten the fancy grill guard.

 

[RollTideRam]

I think I'll add the power beyond. I wanted it on my 2520, but dealer talked me out of it. I am getting away from mowing with the tractor, so no mid pto. If I ever get my yard smooth enough, I'll move up to a RFM and mow my yard and my parents yard at the same time. I already have a set of forks that will fit Deere QA, but that was a good idea. I'll also rethink the alternator. Thanks for the replies. JC

 

[matthew3120]

HI all ,
Putting the Deluxe grill gaurd is a must for alot of brush mowing and just makes it look real heavy duty.I had the 3120 and traded it for a 4120 and got the same stuff as i had on my 3120 except for the front fender and rear fender Extentions And the cruise control is a must. On my 3120 I had everything but the air ride and dang it I forgot to get it on my 4120 well maybe next year.BTW get the vertical Exhaust it is sweet looking.

Matthew3120

 

[putt_putt_green]

I have the smaller R4s. My reasons where 6 ply vs 4 ply, price, and there would be more clearance if I ever added tire chains. The smaller R4s should put the tractor lower to the ground by 1 inch (less tipsy, worse ground clearance). Plus they were cheaper. The tractor looks tougher with the bigger R4s though.

 

[wippster]

I went with the big rear R4 just to get more liquid in the tires! And I have been real happy with them. I wish I would have gotten the HD bucket though.

cheers

 

[sweeter]

JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet

 

[RollTideRam]

I have had my 2520 on three wheels a couple of times. I know the 3320 is higher off the ground and I hope the filled tires will help. Thanks for the heads up.
I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC

Anyone know what length cylinders to get for top-n-tilt?

 

[Yourkie]

JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet

That's a concern of mine. I am considering buying either a new 3320 with MMM and the TLB implements, or a separate used TLB and continue using my Deere 755 for mowing. I have some hills on my property and the 755 with a MMM is never tippy. I've put it on three wheels when using the loader to push a tree w/o the rear ballast box. I always wear the belt...well 90% of the time.

Did you have just a loader backhoe on your 3320?. How much damage did it do?

 

[papafoxtrot]

I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC
QUOTE]

Roll Tide,

Did you order it from Coker?
We'll be up in Guntersville in a couple of weeks and I always drop in on Bo and the crew everytime we're there. The wife loves to cruise all those antique places in Hartselle too.

 

[Chris2520]

I have had my 2520 on three wheels a couple of times. I know the 3320 is higher off the ground and I hope the filled tires will help. Thanks for the heads up.
I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC

Anyone know what length cylinders to get for top-n-tilt?

JC its up to you. but i learned from experence. you said you ordered a tooth bar. if i were you i would get a markham tooth bar instead. i have a JD bar. i know you once said you had a bad back. this thing will work you to death. its way over built. even for a 3 or 4000 seris tractor. it weghs a ton. and you wont want to take it on and off. and everyone says it fits to tight. i know mine did. pry it off and hammer it on. and JD's was 300 $ and only has 6 teeth and markhams has 7 and weighes hafe. and cost 231$ and its well made you ant going to break it. just trying to help. cause i been there and done that... go look at my pictues in the other forum and you will see how well the Markham is made. 80 pounds verses 180 pounds

Chris.....

 

[RollTideRam]

Roll Tide,

Did you order it from Coker?
We'll be up in Guntersville in a couple of weeks and I always drop in on Bo and the crew everytime we're there. The wife loves to cruise all those antique places in Hartselle too.[/QUOTE]

Yes, Coker is my dealer. Being the only small dealer left in my part of the country, I seem to buy something new way too often. JC

 

[RollTideRam]

JC its up to you. but i learned from experence. you said you ordered a tooth bar. if i were you i would get a markham tooth bar instead. i have a JD bar. i know you once said you had a bad back. this thing will work you to death. its way over built. even for a 3 or 4000 seris tractor. it weghs a ton. and you wont want to take it on and off. and everyone says it fits to tight. i know mine did. pry it off and hammer it on. and JD's was 300 $ and only has 6 teeth and markhams has 7 and weighes hafe. and cost 231$ and its well made you ant going to break it. just trying to help. cause i been there and done that... go look at my pictues in the other forum and you will see how well the Markham is made. 80 pounds verses 180 pounds

Chris.....

The only reason I went with the deere is because from my dealer, it was the same price as the Markham I have on my 2520. I had forgot how heavy you said it was. JC

 

[B8FISH]

If I remember correctly the mid-length hydraulic link from CCM is a good fit (18-26.5). They were good to deal with--I hope for your sake that the supply is in (I had to wait a month or so).
B8fish

 

[orlo]

JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet

It's not just the 3320, it's the whole 3000 series. If you load the tires, use ballast when you need it and don't transport things high you will get used to it.
I've had my 3720 cab (an extra 600lbs up high so it's even tippier) tilted the rated 15 degrees while mowing (No loading in my tires yet) and it feels very tippy but hasn't gone over (If I hit a chuck hole maybe it would). These are only rated for 15 degrees anyway.

I have had it feel tippy with a fully loaded grapple (with trees in it) with ballast I've had it on three wheels quite a bit.

I just got two 6" (Super wide) Unverferth wheel extensions to make my rear footprint a foot wider (in the narrow position) - Haven't tried them yet but am dying to. I have a feeling a 72" (vs 59+") footprint will make it feel stable as a rock. My tires are also now loaded R3's (Again haven't tried them yet).

There are a million posts here about feeling 'tippy'. I would get a tilt meter (I have two) - They look kind of funny but it's nice to actually be able to know how steep a slope is. Some that don't look too steep actually are. This measures side to side tilt. I've never had a tippyness issue when going straignt up or down the slope. Supposedly the ANSI rating for Compact Utility tractors is 15 degrees. I get nervous anything over 10.

 

[sweeter]

Yourkie,

I had the bh and loader on, It went over quick, it did no cosmetic damage. I did have to open the motor up to get pressure off the pistons since oil went into the cylinders, but it was running again in 2 hours and smoked like crazy for 5 minutes after I got it restarted. Good to go and no problems.


G Sweet