Bucket Mount Sawbuck

[Colonel Monk]

Howdy Guys

Been wondering if any of you have seen any good designs or built a "cantilever style" log holder for cutting firewood at stand up height?

I just emailed with this company, interesting product but it wouldn't do larger than 8" - and really most of them don't, because of course you have to lift them up there somehow.

Woodchuck Quad

Here's another of a simple design

Smart-Holder Firewood Holder | Smart Splitter | Wood Splitting, Hand | www.baileysonline.com

So the idea is, you bring the bucket down to ground level, pull the log into the gripper, or if you're lucky and skilled, drive the bucket into the log, and then lift up to cutting height with log jutting straight out of bucket.

I have seen the brush fork type tines other ways folks do this, but this way makes more sense, you could even position the log over the trailer or truck, get up there and cut it right there. The old man can't to any of that work anymore but he can drive the tractor fine.

Do plan to get some brush forks as well but they are spendy and I'm gonna take a stab at building some with work scraps down the line. Lots of thick-walled 2" tubing.

Other thing that's cool about the canteliever style is you can use it for small stuff without getting on the tractor. Getting on and off takes effort too if you have bad knees...

So any ideas or a link if you've seen something similar.

thanks

CM

 

[CurlyDave]

I use my grapple for this task, and there are several advantages.

My grapple design allows me to pick up a single log cantilever style (like a unicorn) or crossways. A cantilever pickup is much more difficult than a crossways pickup because I need to push the grapple under the log to pick it up, and this means the log needs to have a stop behind it. It is round, and will roll out of the way easily unless I get it just right.

For a crossways pickup, I raise the bucket, dump it with the joystick and open it. If the log is not perpendicular to the grapple, pushing it forwards a few feet gets it exactly right. The man with the chainsaw can stand in the bed of a pickup and drop cut logs into the pickup all day. Just be careful to switch ends of the log before it gets too unbalanced.

My grapple can easily handle logs up to about 20". About as big as anyone wants to chainsaw standing in the deb of a truck, or even on the ground.

 

[KiwiBro]

It's well down the roundtuit list I'm afraid but I would like to mount two hydraulic saws to my tractor log forks. One at each end, on a threaded pipe that extends out each side about 8-10' passed the forks. Then buck the whole log without getting off the tractor. It just bugs me having to get on and off tractors all day long.

Best I have been able to do so far is make up some large log cradles to load logs in before getting off the tractor to buck them.

 

[bumperm]

Backhoe with hydraulic thumb works well. Also works well for picking up rocks, digging, tearing out saplings roots and all, etc.

 

[Colonel Monk]

I use my grapple for this task, and there are several advantages.

My grapple design allows me to pick up a single log cantilever style (like a unicorn) or crossways. A cantilever pickup is much more difficult than a crossways pickup because I need to push the grapple under the log to pick it up, and this means the log needs to have a stop behind it. It is round, and will roll out of the way easily unless I get it just right.

For a crossways pickup, I raise the bucket, dump it with the joystick and open it. If the log is not perpendicular to the grapple, pushing it forwards a few feet gets it exactly right. The man with the chainsaw can stand in the bed of a pickup and drop cut logs into the pickup all day. Just be careful to switch ends of the log before it gets too unbalanced.

My grapple can easily handle logs up to about 20". About as big as anyone wants to chainsaw standing in the deb of a truck, or even on the ground.

I'm not sure I totally understand. Is your grapple at the bottom of your bucket? Confused because most I've seen are on the top and you mentioned driving the grapple under the log.

We inherited the tractor from my deceased uncle, so my aunt actually owns it - but my old man is averse to the changes I want to make for my use. He's in florida all winter and I'm the one trying to stay warm! So I'm curious, how hard is it to add a grapple to the average tractor? I'm guess it requires an additional valve but is it as simple as tapping into the hydraulic return from existing manifold and adding a cylinder?

 

[Colonel Monk]

Backhoe with hydraulic thumb works well. Also works well for picking up rocks, digging, tearing out saplings roots and all, etc.

Been trying to convince the old man that a backhoe would be worth having. I'd buy it of course, but like I said above, he worries alot about me "tearing up" the tractor..... I get it, he wanted one his whole life and couldn't afford it till we inherited one, but what's the point of having a powerful machine if you aren't going to use it?

Does anybody know what backhoes will work on that tractor - I've looked a little bit and it seems there are other brands that might work? they don't seem to come up used very much.

thanks

 

[bumperm]

The BL4520 backhoe is what I found listed. Though I don't know if that's available anymore, maybe used. If you do look for a backhoe attachment, frame mounted is the way to go A 3-point hitch mount backhoe will sometimes damage the tractor as it can impose loads the 3-point was not designed for.

 

[bcp]

I have the one from Bailey's. It works well. At least half my wood is under 6 inches and in various stacks around 5 acres. My only complaint is that it is too low. It should be about a foot higher to keep my back from getting sore. Notice how the guy in the ads isn't standing up straight. Some blocks or logs under it would help. Or I may just set it in my low utility trailer.

Bruce

 

[Colonel Monk]

Thanks.

Yeah I see your point regarding the 3 pt damage, but it would probably be the least used implement we have. Frame mounting is a big todo from the looks of it, and that would take the fun out of tractoring! For me, anyway... We don't have anything that needs digging, we live on a swamp.

Now, a 3 point log grapple? That's probably way more useful for us. Wouldn't need to be nearly as tough as those available either, as we don't have big timber. But, those would be long term goals, immediate need a little bit of sweat is OK.

Jeez, now I'm thinking about building a lightweight grapple! Grapple might not be perfect though, they seem to be designed to flop around, so I'm not sure it would hold the log up for bucking.

 

[muddstopper]

Log Grapple, Skid Grapple, Log Skider maybe something like this

 

[kco]

Like BCP, I have a Smartholder and much of my wood is under 6". Unlike BCP the Smartholder seems the perfect height for me. We're all different!

The Smartholder makes bucking-up smaller logs easier on the back. And it is safer. Smaller logs can be difficult to control and there can be an inclination to hold them with a foot if cutting them over another log on the ground. I also use a log jack similar to the Woodchuck mentioned in the first post. Many of my trees are have 10 to 12" butts and are about 60' long. You can work from the bottom with the log jack to where the remaining tree is light enough and small enough to put in the Smartholder and then finish cutting it there.

I also have a toothbar on my bucket. Most times it is easy to balance an entire 50' to 60' log across the teeth, mark it, and cut from both ends. If I can't get in to balance the log or it is too big, I lift an end with a chain and whittle it down to where it can be cut with the log jack and finally the Smartholder. Since you are cutting mostly small timber I think you would be happy with a log jack and something similar to the Smartholder.

 

[300UGUY]

A guy on here from Maine has a simple 1 fang grapple for holding logs. He calls it a log clamp.

 

[ETpilot]

I made a wooden smart holder. It really works good. You would be amazed at how large and long a log it will hold. It is also good for cutting limbs for starter wood. I may weld another style that I saw that looks interesting. For mid-sized logs I use my FEL bucket with forks. I load the log raise to work level then buck from both ends towards middle. For large logs, I leave them on the ground and cut about 3/4 down then rotate with a can't hook I made and do the final cut. This works for me.

Adding a grapple to my bucket would be very nice. I just have no time right now to fabricate one.

 

[Colonel Monk]

ET I think that's what I'm going to do as well, is build a "smart holder" for our bucket. I've seen quite a few designs on the web, they are simple to load yourself and auto-sizing. Would like brush forks and a grapple too, but now that I'm working again one of the first things I'm investing in is a good MIG welder. Put that off for far too long, it's time.

Was thinking, if it has two tines like a fork that are say 6" apart and stick out maybe 18 inches, and then the smart holder above, might be able to drive right into the end of a log and pick it up. I suppose you want to make sure you don't ram the log home into the bucket, otherwise the "one way" clamp won't release the last piece of firewood.

I'm kinda busy with regular work right now but when I get a chance I'll model something up.

What did you use on the "jaw" of the holder for "teeth"? Place I work now has quite a bit of steel scrap, I'm guessing I'll be using 2 x 2 sq tube mostly.

CM

 

[Deere Dude]

I use 48" forks to lift as many logs, from 3" diameter to 24" diameter, as will fit and lift. I need to put a saw horse under my fel because it will drop to much before I get them all sawed. I then cut from the ends alternating until I get the center chunks. That I saw 3/4 through the log then roll it a little then cut it through and let if fall through the forks. I do this until I get a big pile on the ground.

Then I fork a big pallet and roll as many logs on the pallet as the tractor will lift, almost. Then I drive it over to the log splitter and raise it level with the splitter and about 3" away from the bed of the splitter. Then I roll them on the splitter and use the pallet for the big half of log I am not working on. It works super and I never have to lift any logs unless I want to stack them higher on the pallet. It works for me and is the easiest system I have seem so far.

 

[CurlyDave]

I'm not sure I totally understand. Is your grapple at the bottom of your bucket? Confused because most I've seen are on the top and you mentioned driving the grapple under the log.

We inherited the tractor from my deceased uncle, so my aunt actually owns it - but my old man is averse to the changes I want to make for my use. He's in florida all winter and I'm the one trying to stay warm! So I'm curious, how hard is it to add a grapple to the average tractor? I'm guess it requires an additional valve but is it as simple as tapping into the hydraulic return from existing manifold and adding a cylinder?

My grapple is independent of the loader. I take the loader off and put the grapple on the tractor.

 

[MNBobcat]

I'm thinking of building a log table as an attachment for my skidsteer. Basically it would have 2 forks that would slide under the logs and then when I tip it back the logs will roll back onto the table portion of the attachment. And then I would want a hydraulic lever off the corner of the attachment. Hitting the lever would push the logs from their ends towards the opposite end of the table. The idea being I could get 5 or 6 logs loaded up...jump out of the skid...cut the ends of the logs..hit the lever and have more of the log overhang off the end of the table and then cut them. And so on and so on. Sort of like a poor man's processor. I have no need to split the wood. Just need manageable lengths.

 

[lutt]

I use the thumb on my backhoe for this. LUTT

 

[pat32rf]

If the log isn't too heavy i can run the end of it into my bucket, then roll the bucket back and lift the log by the end that is in the bucket. A couple of teeth sticking down from the top of the bucket (which has an extra piece or 3' chanel) stops the log from rolling most of the time....