Chains Bucket hooks

   / Bucket hooks #11  
If you were at all concerned about this set up, you could put a short piece of angle iron under the bolt on hooks (one edge under the hook and the other edge cascading over the front of the bucket). That would add more stiffness, and the part over the front would prevent any rotation. I doubt this would be necessary, but might give peace of mind.
 
   / Bucket hooks #12  
I had a set of Ken's bolt on for my LS. Couldn't see a good way to bolt them on where I wanted them so ended up just welding them. That worked really well, but of course more expense than just going with basic weld-on grab hooks from the start. Ken's product was great, just didn't fit my application the way I thought it would due to bucket design.

For this one, I had dealer do it when I bought it. Forget what it cost, but was nominal charge - like $25 or something for a pair of 5/16" grab hooks welded on. So after having both, I would rather have them welded at the far edges of the bucket - presumably that would be strongest place to lift from without risking any damage to bucket. Seems to work better for what I do vs just one in center too.
 
   / Bucket hooks #13  
Ken does say he cannot recommend doing it, but says it's a CYA because he has never tested it.

I just drilled all the way through (I can't weld). They work fine. I would like some facing the other way so I could run the chain over the back of the bucket, but doubt I'll ever get around to doing that.

View attachment 566511 View attachment 566512 View attachment 566513 View attachment 566514 View attachment 566515

The first pic shows the short bolts Ken supplied and the long (grade 8) bolts I bought to use instead.

I see you used locking nuts. It appears the locking mechanism that keeps it form getting loose is plastic rather than a lock washer and regular metal nut. . Do you suppose that could reduce its strength?
 
   / Bucket hooks #14  
My CK 2610 loader bucket is boxed across the top edge. This seems to make using bolt on chain hooks improbable. What type of set up is best suited to these buckets? Thanks!

I strongly second the recommendation for welding, and recommend 5/16" grab hooks. Which loader do you have on your CK2610? If it's the new KL4030 that's now coming standard on most of the CK10 models, or even the older KL4010 loader, there should already be a small triangular 5/16"-thick reinforcing plate for this on the top of the bucket, in line with each of the boom arms, just forward of the lip that receives the quick-attach plate. That's where the weld-on grab hooks go.

The pics below show this on my NX bucket with the KL6010 loader, but I think it's the same on yours.

BTW, some might disagree, but standard 5/16" weld-on grab hooks are the most versatile, IMO. They will easily handle 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" chain. When I bought my NX several years ago, I initially asked for 3/8" hooks, not realizing this. The dealer pointed out the advantage of 5/16", and was right.

weld-on grab hook1.jpgweld-on grab hook2.jpg
 
   / Bucket hooks #15  
I see you used locking nuts. It appears the locking mechanism that keeps it form getting loose is plastic rather than a lock washer and regular metal nut. . Do you suppose that could reduce its strength?
Since you ask... two points:
1) I don't put much stress on them, so FOR ME not an issue
2) I can't imagine pulling upward. The chain hangs down, so either a shear load or compression load. Neither depends on any nut being in place at all.

So, my opinion only, could it reduce its strength? Theoretically yes. Does that matter? No. :)

I do agree with others, welding is best. Simply wasn't an option for me at the time.
 
   / Bucket hooks #16  
Find the middle of the bucket and weld a hook there so that there is no chance of tweaking the loader frame by lifting from the side of the bucket. Also - weld a plate of similar thickness as the bucket is made of to the bucket and then weld the hook onto the plate. Make a hot root pass with 6013 -chip and brush - then go over it with 7018 at least 3 passes per side. Chip and brush let cool some and then paint to match the bucket. You could do a hook on each side as well - my bucket has 3 hooks - but be careful with those end hooks.
 
   / Bucket hooks #17  
I used 5/16" grab hooks on the bucket ends and a big hook with a safety latch in the center of the bucket. The center hook just fits inside the gooseneck of my trailer and I use that to move it wherever I want to. The grab hooks are good for a 2-300 lb side load IMO nothing more than that unless it's an equal load on both hooks. For anything heavy I use the center hook with a ring & chain setup with grade 80 chain. This gives me a small chain just over 1/4" that will carry twice what my loader will lift. Here are some pictures of the bucket and the obligatory picture of the Supervisor doing what she does best.

IMG_0126.JPGIMG_0123.JPGIMG_0120.JPG
 
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   / Bucket hooks #18  
Find the middle of the bucket and weld a hook there so that there is no chance of tweaking the loader frame by lifting from the side of the bucket. Also - weld a plate of similar thickness as the bucket is made of to the bucket and then weld the hook onto the plate. Make a hot root pass with 6013 -chip and brush - then go over it with 7018 at least 3 passes per side. Chip and brush let cool some and then paint to match the bucket. You could do a hook on each side as well - my bucket has 3 hooks - but be careful with those end hooks.

I'll add a futher caution: A center hook can sure be convenient, but be careful also when lifting from a center hook alone! With the powerful loaders on some of these cuts, it's not hard to put a nasty bow in the center of the top of the bucket! :laughing: Even on my little 25 y/o Kubota B2150, which has just one welded-on slip hook in the center, just behind the 3/16" rolled top edge, I managed to do this with a lot of heavy lifting over the years. And that loader (Kubota's LA350) has only a fraction of the power of the OP's loader. :eek: Took me an hour with my 20-ton bottle jack and some challenging positioning with timbers to straighten the bucket back out. :laughing: For that reason, I went with only two chain hooks, in line with the boom arms, on reinforced plates on my NX4510 and my CK3510 buckets. Even then, I'll lift from the center of a chain suspended between the two hooks.

MH8675309's set up with three hooks is nice, because it gives several options depending on the demands of the task.
 
   / Bucket hooks #19  
I had the dealer weld three chain hooks to the top of the bucket as part of the deal when I bought my ch4010 SE last year.

Very handy for lifting things with a chain.
 
   / Bucket hooks #20  
I welded 2 hooks and a D-ring INSIDE my bucket. I figure direction of force would be into the bucket should a chain break. I welded them to a 3/8" rectangular plate, then welded that plate into the bucket. I might never have the need, but I feel better with them there.
 

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