Broken Casting for top link of 3 point hitch leaking fluid on 5325

[candersen10]

I have a John Deere 5325 with around 700 hours on it. Recently it started leaking fluid out of a crack in a casting that holds the top link of the three point hitch (part number 9 in the attached 1.jpg and shown in the other jpg images).

The cost for this casting is $1250.00. Does anyone have any ideas on how to mitigate costs? Does anyone know if the top link casting is a reservoir for pressurized fluid? Is there any way to patch this type of thing or do I definitely need a new casting? Does anyone know of a good place to get used John Deere parts?

Thanks so much.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

[Mechanos]

I would attempt to weld it... or have it welded if you don't weld. It's already broke... what do you have to loose?

 

[candersen10]

Do you know if it is possible to weld a casting together reliably?

 

[Piston]

I hope you can do something with welding it but I remember reading on here a while back about someone who had a similar issue and had to replace the entire casting. I hope that's not that case for you.

Would you mind sharing how you think the casing cracked? Is it something that just recently happened or has it been like that a while?

One thing I worry about is putting too much stress on my toplink with heavy implements. I think sometimes I'm using my tractor for more than it was designed to do and I hope I don't push the envelope too far. Best of luck with your tractor.

 

[candersen10]

To be perfectly honest I have no idea how it cracked. Most recently (when we noticed the problem) it was running a transplanter which is somewhat heavy but runs in a creeper gear and thus I doubt would have caused this type of thing to crack.

We run a plastic layer, transplanter, various mowers, chisel plow (on occasion, we're mostly using a Kuhn moldboard plow on our 6430 premium), and some other random implements on it. Certainly nothing that really lifts the front end up on a steep slope.

 

[spruce Deere]

I once broke the same part on a yanmar I use to have. Split it completely in two, across the 3 pt lift piston 'barrel'. It did not look good. I just removed the busted haves from the tractor as the neighbor was pulling in. Funny how things work sometimes.....

My neighbor had a welding shop set up for doing irrigation pumps and such. He was able to weld my busted halves back up quite well. He honed out the 'barrel' when finished, rounded up new o-ring and wiper ring pieces and I was good to go.

Before he showed up and looked my busted chit, I thought I was gunna be salvage yard shopping.

They can be welded if the outfit knows what there doing. Other than that, I would call some salvage yards for a used part, Bound to be one somewhere.

Knowing how much new parts go for anymore, as you found out, there is alternatives.

 

[beenthere]

I'd work with the dealer and exhaust all possibilities for Deere to replace it. I've known of similar instances where they do that.

Any idea why it failed? Wrecked? Flipped? back hoe? Jerking a tree out?

Deere replaced that part some years back on a 4100 that was broken when the owner was jerking a stump out. He would back up and get a run at it with a heavy chain. He may have just had to pay labor, but don't know that for sure.

If the fluid isn't squirting out like it is under pressure, then doubt you are cracked through a pressure zone. And the fluid level is somewhat below that point, I believe. I'd be some concerned that water could get into the tranny oil through the crack.

 

[AGGIE00]

It seems odd to me that a failure would occur from a heavy implement. The tractor should stand up from the weight before the casting gives way. I pull a root plow with mine that has buckled the center link on both my 5083e and a 2940. This stress far exceeds what you would get from weight from a three point implement.

 

[spruce Deere]

Well, what broke mine was a combination of operator hurry and stupidity

The little knob that adjusts how fast the 3 pt implement drops was set to 'look out below' mode from running a lighter implement earlier then to a heavy tiller... with no adjustment to the knob.

I was going to till from a ditch edge to clean up weeds. I backed up to the ditch, shoved the rocker lever down quick like and then a bunch of noise and oil happened as the tiller headed down over the ditch edge with part of the tractor attached.

Yep, thats how you break'em, LOTS of downward force.

 

[sequoyah101]

Grind it out and weld it up. TIG or MIG at the least. Brazing if cast iron. Nothing to lose and everything to gain. Take it off first of course. Probably cast steel and not cast iron.