Breaking in new tractor

oldafretired · Nov 3, 2016

Can't figure out why the manual states not to run full throttle for 50 hours. What are you supposed to do for all that time? Can't even run at PTO speed which is just about full throttle.

Thomas · Nov 3, 2016

I always figure that warning was to cover there butt in case something comes unglue...if anything don't lug the motor down.
Full throttle lot of RPM's,what attachment your running.

motownbrowne · Nov 3, 2016

On my new Kubota, I just tried to keep the first several sessions of operation as long as possible (not start up, do a ten minute job, and shut down). I tried to vary the engine speed and the amount of load applied. Definitely tried not to lug it down. I definitely used PTO RPM before 50 hours.

Just my two cents.

TripleR · Nov 3, 2016

I've broken in several new tractors and was able to get the needed work done, pretty close to the way motownbrowne does, I allowed some cool down cycles in between hard usage, varied RPM occasionally. I used a rotary cutter as well as hard pulling.

kthompson · Nov 3, 2016

I recently bought a sthil saw with about those instructions for first three tanks of gas and yes about what I did.

But few years ago I had a job of testing machines for a heavy equipment company when they came off the assembly line. Engine may have had 30 minutes low rpm time when I got them and for about 20 or so minutes it ran at full rpm with throttle locked there. Had to do so to test the machine. We used 3208 cats, 504 and 378 Cummins, 453 Detroit's and some model of Deutz. Never heard of any issue from that. I am very confident their reps knew how they were shall we say broken in.

motownbrowne · Nov 3, 2016

kthompson said:
I recently bought a sthil saw with about those instructions for first three tanks of gas and yes about what I did.

But few years ago I had a job of testing machines for a heavy equipment company when they came off the assembly line. Engine may have had 30 minutes low rpm time when I got them and for about 20 or so minutes it ran at full rpm with throttle locked there. Had to do so to test the machine. We used 3208 cats, 504 and 378 Cummins, 453 Detroit's and some model of Deutz. Never heard of any issue from that. I am very confident their reps knew how they were shall we say broken in.

Those are very surprising instructions for a chainsaw. Chainsaws are sensitive to lean running conditions. Running a saw at anything other than idle and WOT can make them run lean, which you never want to do. Are you sure the manual didn't say to avoid running at full throttle with no load?

ovrszd · Nov 3, 2016

I buy it. I use it. No consideration of age/hrs. I believe the old days of soft cylinders and rings that need "ground" into place are gone. But what do I know.

ClaySlayer · Nov 3, 2016

I noticed that too when I got my L3301 a few weeks ago. It also said after the no WOT for first 50hrs "OR no harder than needed to get the job done" so I've been able to get by running about 2,000-2,300rpm vs 2,600+. Since I've mostly done loader work and also it's been so dry that the half dead grass doesn't provide much resistance when hogging. Of course since it's so dry that means the loader work has been harder on the machine than it usually would but heck it's a tractor. Main thing is don't abuse it and change engine oil and other filters as required at 50hrs to get rid of any metal from break-in.

jk96 · Nov 4, 2016

motownbrowne said:
Those are very surprising instructions for a chainsaw. Chainsaws are sensitive to lean running conditions. Running a saw at anything other than idle and WOT can make them run lean, which you never want to do. Are you sure the manual didn't say to avoid running at full throttle with no load?

Same thought here. Bought a new stihl chainsaw a couple of weeks ago. When asking the dealer if I needed to do anything for break-in he said to start it and run the piss out of it.

brown40 · Nov 4, 2016

For sure the big concern on a new machine is manufacturing residues... manufacturers recommend it be done, so I follow the directions. I suppose at higher speeds the filtration systems are more likely to be bypassed to supply demand with suspended milling and casting particulates, but as far as hammering the rings into place and seating everything... computerized production should make for much more exacting tolerances than the days of "break-in oil". I have experience with a handful of machines, whereas the manufacturer made them all. I do what they say, and never rely on the governor to tell me the rpm's are too high. Occasionally there are consumers have two speeds: OFF and WOT, and if it blows at WOT when its new: manufacturing defect under warranty. I wouldn't get overly anxious about taking it to 85-90% after a couple hours. Lugging is the thing to avoid.
Is WOT really that close to PTO speed on that machine?