Break-In Oil ????????? Dealer???????

[CampMan]

The engine oil in a new Kubota Tractor:

Is it; A) A special break-in oil that needs to remain in the
tractor for its first 50 hours.

B) A regular type oil that could be charged at the
first 25 hours then again at 50 total hours, just to
make the engine super happy.

Dealers are confused, they have said both.
BREAK-IN OIL BIG QUESTION - DEALERS NOT SURE

 

[HGM]

To my understanding the oil itself is not truely different. The term brake in oil is used to describe the fact that the engine is in the brake in process. It is usually recomended to leave the original oil in for the first regular change interval to avoid the contamination of any new oil you add. Durring the brake in process the rings,bearings,lifters,pushrods,rockers,etc will seat in and you will have some wear from this. By the first oil change this wear should be minimul and wont contaminate the new oil to the same degree. I dont believe you would hurt anything by changing it early, you may want to change it early again the next time too. Just my opinion from what I've learned, see what the other guys say as well.

 

[wushaw]

HGN is correct, the break in oil is no different from the oil you will put back in it.
I don't know if you will make your engine super happy or not by changing it sooner not unless your enviroment is really dusty and your working the snot out of it...then it will help.

 

[CTyler]

Well the real answer is yes and no.

No the oil itself is not special other than its' not a synthetic.

Yes its' breakin oil, sort of, because it has the assembly lube or lubes mixed in with it.

If you want to change it at 25 hrs just don't use a synthetic or put in additives.

 

[CampMan]

C-Tyler
Once your at the 50 hours mark, can you then change to a synthetic oil?

 

[gsxr1100]

I installed Amsoil at 000.30 hours.(3/10 of an hour)

I install synthetic ASAP when I get whatever auto.. No problems to date, in any auto. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HGM]

Not sure that this would cause any problems with todays engines. My understanding is that with a new engine it needs to "lap in" so to speak and if you use synthetic from the start it will not let it do so because it is more slippery. I prefer to use dino oil anyway, dont see the benefit of the additional cost. But this is stepping away from the orriginal post.

 

[gsxr1100]

the rings will set but it will take longer and have higher oil consumption; which I will gladly take over more wear.

For me this process has worked on my autos since 1991.

 

[odleefs]

Isn't taking longer to break in a good thing?!?

I agree, increased oil consumption is a small price to pay...change to synth at first oil change.

 

[Junkman]

If your engine was made in the 1960's this would be true. With better manufacturing techniques and better understanding of metallurgy, engines are being designed better and to tighter tolerances today. The old days of break in oil are long gone. Today many engines are factory filled with synthetic oil and even the weights of the oil has changed. The new Mercedes are being shipped with Mobil 1 0W-40 weight oil and the change intervals have also been greatly increased. Oils, engines, manufacturing techniques, etc all change faster than we as humans allow for change, hence the old theories of break in oil persist. Personally, I feel that the engine on my Kubota will last as long as any other even if I don't do oil analysis or use Amsoil synthetic. Changing oil and filters as recommended will be enough to keep my Kubota humming for many years to come. Do what makes you happy, but stick to the manufacturers recommendations and you will have no problems as a result of lubrication. If your engine is prone to throwing a connecting rod, then it will do it whether you use synthetic or dino oil. You can't alter the performance of a defective part by using one oil over another. Oil analysis can't tell you that a part has a hair line casting crack and is going to self destruct at 300 hours. Only a we gee board or crystal ball can give you this information in advance. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[CTyler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( C-Tyler
Once your at the 50 hours mark, can you then change to a synthetic oil? )</font>

That is what I would do.

 

[varmint]

Just an aside, but when we got a new Honda Civic Hybrid, the manual stated that the engine had a special break-in oil, and to leave it there for the first 10,000 miles. If, for some reason it was drained before then, to see the dealer to get more of that special oil. Then you go to 0-30W synthetic.

 

[gsxr1100]

So we are comparing a tractor diesel engine to a Honda Civic Hybrid now?

Sure you can leave it in longer from the start since the engine only runs 50% (+/-) of the time. You rest is on the Energizer Bunny.

With all the talk of break in oil, lets see a dealer part number? Or a SAE or ASTM spec that it conforms too since dealer must conform to this? Not gonna find it since this oil does not exist.

 

[HGM]

I agree with Junk, so much has changed over the years. If its prone to breakage, it will break.

My opinion of oil is that 30yrs ago we recomended 3k mile oil change intervals for our cars. The oil composition has dramaticly changed for the better, technology has brought the quality of all oil up far above the original standards that 3k was based on. There are many engines running on dino oil for well over 2-300000miles. Does this mean that synthetic will make it last 5-600000? I dont think so. I believe it is a waste of money(my opinion).
Is it slicker-yes
Does it last longer-yes
Will it stop all blow-by--no, you will still have hydrocarbon build up in the crankcase, causing wear.
They key is change your oil and filter regularly.
If you believe in it and can aford to use it, go for it. You wont do any harm. I have used dino for years and all of my vehicles have over 150000mi with 5k mile interval oil changes. No wear present on any of them. No smoke, no performance change, no oil consumption. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

does it stop blow by, no; but it fights the acids better which come from blowby. There are advantages and you get what you pay for.

I am not starying off topic but 5K drains. That is one reason why I do not use dino.

Unless you are teasting you do not know the wear numbers. The oil consumption is higher in dino oils. Just need to look.

 

[HGM]

I dont discount that there is a difference, I just believe that it is picking the fly crap out of pepper to analyze it that closely. For the average consumer, you'll never realize the difference and be wasting your money.

Some folks are really particular about some things, its not a bad thing.... However, your vehicle will wear out before the engine if you keep up with maintenance in most cases. Therfore you'll have a spotless engine with no wear on the inside with a whiped out suspension and drivetrain. I just see it as overkill. To each his own...

I think we're a little off topic anyhow. Dont sweat the break in oil. Change it as you would normally do. and just as important on a diesel is the air filter. Keep the incomming air clean and you'll have alot less wear.

 

[gsxr1100]

Well then how can you tell a differeance if you do not test? If the average customer does not test, they are flat-out guessing in all cases. If they can't tell use the cheapest oil you can find. Again, you get what you pay for.

Overkill? I do not how that is since I send about $45 a year on oil/filters and an oil test. That is about 1 tank for super duper gas. Will the engine wear sure, I just want a slower rate.

 

[varmint]

Since you brought it up, the engine runs whenever the car is in motion- it shuts off when you put it in neutral and the car isn't moving, unless you want it to run, like for AC. I know that hybrids have downsides, but at the same time, my wife's averages 53 mpg (over the first 30,000 miles) and a lot of that is normal driving, on the interstate. Granted, she doesn't go over 75, but the car isn't a road obstacle, either. Since gas was $3.50 gallon here, that milage is nice.

 

[gsxr1100]

I know you get more mpg, that is there basis for sales. My car get over 30 on the highway and over 25 in city.

It would take about 3 years to get 30K miles for me (if lucky). The delta in MPG is 23 mpg (53 - 30). Take 30,000 and divide by 23. That is 1,303 gallons saved. So times that by per gallon today ($2.75 per gallon), that is $3,586 in three years. Not much savings here since the higher cost to buy it is over that, nevermind the 3 years to get that savings.

They have there place but the increase in price for me is a negative right from the start.

 

[JoeG]

I don't think the savings are as big as you stated. 30k miles at 53mpg uses 566 gallons. At 30mpg one would use 1,000 gallons. A difference of 434 gallons, under $1,200 dollars (at $2.75.)

Maybe I just don't understand the point with these hybrids. More up front cost, low (to no) payback, recyclying issues, technology issues, etc... My family has been getting consistent 50+mpg with VW diesels since the 80's.